  HOTEL DE CRILLON(*****L): By Gilles Malaisé (Written
January 1998, updated August 2007)
Nowhere else
in Paris will you find such a physical and human proximity between palace
and hotel. Settled on the royal Place de la Concorde, behind one of the
two sublime fronts designed This is somehow strange we were that much amazed by the HOTEL DE CRILLON ; our first visit few years ago –a short one: just for a cup of Darjeeling in the Jardin d’Hiver- was not that convincing: we found the place quite cold. Too monumental for human beings who do not wear a crown, nor act more democratically as a Prime Minister or State President. Even an oil billionaire looked like a very ordinary guest in what we definitely considered as being a luxurious annexe of the much more proletarian Palais de l’Elysée: this is actually a tradition that the official guests of the French President should receive accommodation nowhere else but at the HOTEL DE CRILLON ! Being at residence in this Eden drastically changed our mind! We have been welcome according to the ancient rules of the French hospitality. After parking between two Mercedes 600 with diplomatic registration, the doorman rushed to drive our car to the garage. Our luggage were lifted to our room within seconds. Once in the lobby, we sat down behind a Louis XV desk for quick check-in. The resident manager even came to introduce himself, just in case we should need his direct assistance anytime ! The best was now waiting for us: our glamorous top floor apartment. This may be a paradox: this jewel on the Place de la Concorde doesn’t offer many rooms with a view on the obelisk of Luxor. Guests should previously be informed about this characteristic of the HOTEL DE CRILLON; else they might feel somehow disappointed. Though the 163 rooms and suite are ALL extremely pleasant, luxurious and spacious, this is obvious that only the top prestigious "Grands Appartements" (Grand-Deluxe and Presidential Suites) open on this cinematographic panorama on the City of Lights. It should certainly have been a very good business for the owners to divide them into many smaller rooms: but prestige is more important than marketing in such a distinguished place… moreover ranked as historical monument, and therefore protected by drastic architectural rules. The unique time they removed something original, was when a wood panelled room had been transferred to the N.Y.C Metropolitan Museum: where the HOTEL DE CRILLON is the unique palace hotel in the world to be introduced like a masterpiece of art. The hotel has been recently remodelled by the famous fashion designer and decorator Sonia Rykiel, and by Sybille de Margerie. Jean-Lou Roubert, Premier Grand Prix de Rome, executive chief architect for both the Opera Garnier and the Grand-Palais, was in charge of the strict supervision of the this ambitious and very sensitive refurbishment of such a precious building. Nowadays, the former first floor ballrooms replenish with their former use as private apartments. They are of course sublime, and above all extremely cosy with their pale wood panels, and also with their elegant wall and roof paintings ( just like in the suites 158 and 101, called "de l’Empereur" and "Royale"). On the rich marble fireplaces are displayed original –and therefore precious- clocks and candelabras. Impressive indeed: even for palace hotels addicted. It may be quite difficult for guests to stay in a Presidential Suite. This is no matter of money: those are extremely expensive, but nobody cares ! The problem comes from the French government, which likes to book them far in advance for its scheduled top VIP visitors. This is interesting, for example, to see that some of them come both officially and privately to the HOTEL DE CRILLON; while others stay here for official purpose only. Preferring another hotel for family stay. Which is the case of King Juan Carlos, who gets therefore two residences in Paris: the CRILLON, and the PLAZA-ATHENEE. These much requested "Grands Appartements" are decorated with sumptuous period carpets from La Savonnerie, equipped with a long tail piano, while flowers are dispatched on any table, desk and gueridons. The five major palace hotels in Paris spend a per annum budget of sometimes more than USD 500,000 only on flowers ! The richest apartment remains certainly the "Suite Duc de Crillon": former private chapel, it had been decorated with bucolic frescos reflected into an impressive succession of mirrors. Its fireplace is the most beautifully designed in the all building. Palatial, indeed ! Our preference still goes to the romantic and cosy "Suite Leonard Bernstein", though the most atypical room in the hotel. Inaugurated in 1991, it is also the most recent and modern one. Far less formal than the "Grands Appartements", this spacious penthouse may be the only one available on the all square ! Its large terrace has a dramatic view over Paris: one can have breakfast with, as a background, Sainte Sulpice church's towers, the House of Parliament, the Invalides, and of course the Eiffel Tower emerging from the green bushes of the Jardin des Champs Elysees. The most famous artists just want to stay here: we easily understand why. Impossible to remain stone face discovering such a room; even if, on an historical and decorative point of view, this is not the most prestigious suite in the HOTEL DE CRILLON. But, due to the worldwide fame of its guests, it will obtain a real status within a few decades. This is, meanwhile, the most hollywoodian room in all Paris ! The "Standard Rooms" –can something actually be "standard" in the CRILLON ?- are simply luxurious and palatial: which catched all our attention, due to the objective fact that in many palaces hotels some cheaper rooms tend to be somehow second class. The guest may decide to pay for the lowest rate: he will get much for his money. We stayed in a "Deluxe Room" (about 4,200 FRF per night / USD750), with a view over the rue Boissy d’Anglas. From our balconies (we actually got three of them…) we could see the greenery of the Champs-Elysees: very romantic, indeed. This was a huge room, with a separate sitting room: practical for discreet or intimate meetings. A suite will cost at least a 1000 FRF (USD 150) supplement: and, for that price, you will actually get the cheapest one. If available... Our pink-marble bathroom was ritzy: only a few palace hotels in Asia and Italy sometimes offer similar ones. But the HOTEL
DE CRILLON is also a succession of epicurious leisure: like the most elegant
breakfast One can scarcely find such a stimulating night spot elsewhere in the area nowadays. The service anticipates with omnipresence and discretion: this is certainly the very best in Paris. The Chef Concierge Christian Ferron is the kindest lad on earth, and one would not believe at first sight how important and indispensable he may be for the international "Who’s Who". Only journalists could bitterly blame him: he remains as silent as a grave when interviewed about the sometime strange habits of his guests ! His respect to the clientele is obvious. He is the one who will provide bull's sperm to a South-American ranchman, book a seat for a premiere at the last minute, or help somebody to be admitted in a fashionable and therefore very private nightclub. He and his staff are also here to make you feel relaxed and comfortable if this is your first stay in such a great –and lets say impressive- palace hotel; which looks a most remarkable duty. Not so many French people stay in the HOTEL DE CRILLON (globally, only 5% of the guests of the five major Parisian palace hotels are locals). This is a pity, because here is certainly the only place our highly captious compatriots would not be able to criticize in Paris… The hotel fits all their aesthetic requirements. The CRILLON reflects the image foreigners have of France: that well, that we could believe life is directed here by a film director from Hollywood ! This would explain why so many American people like to stay here, either for holiday or business. The former Asian guests cannot spend anymore their devaluated currencies in Europe; fortunately, Russian are replacing them by number. Impressed like kids by the decorum, they forget to act like hooligans as they should do in a vulgar Hilton: the staff acknowledge with thanks that they are the most quiet guests in the hotel… and also the easiest spenders! Who should complain ? HOTEL
DE CRILLON: 10, Place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris
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 FIRST
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in
1758 by Jacques Ange Gabriel and planned by King Louis XV in person, it
is part of the background of the most beautiful square in the world. Property
of the distinguished Counts Crillon until the early XXth century, it was
converted in 1909 into a very plush palace hotel emphasizing the best of
the best in French traditions and style life. We stayed there four days
in November 1997, and had enough leisure to see that time still runs slowly
and unspoiled in this urban retreat for rich and famous. We actually felt
that French touch and glamorous atmosphere one can find everywhere
inside the building: from the lobby to the lift, and from the most standard
room to the most palatial suite.
we
ever had, in "Les Ambassadeurs". Ranked by the highly respected
Michelin Guide as the first hotel’s restaurant in town, it displays the
most palatial dining room in the all world: marble, mirrors, crystal and
bronze chandeliers are part of its basic decoration… The best tables have
a view on the obelisk. Tea-time in the "Jardin d’Hiver" also gets
its charm: there is an harpist, and peeping from such a strategic spot
at the rich and famous walking up and down in the neighbouring lobby is
a great attraction for gossips. The most elegant Parisian ladies, back
from shopping on the Faubourg Saint-Honore, give the "Jardin d’Hiver"
a superlative touch of glamour. By night, the animation is transferred
to the piano bar, decorated in a warm purple by Sonia Rykiel and famous
French sculptor Cesar who designed the bar out of shining copper and broken
pieces of glass sparkling all around. The most distinguished night owls
like to meet here after midnight, when the serious and stressed businessmen
cleared the place. They entertain the last clients of the casual "Obelisque"
restaurant, who like to have a last Cognac here.