Czech cuisine could roughly resume in two main specialities: beer and boiled beef. The excellent and refreshing PILSEN-URQUELLcan challenge the best German beers, and should be served i.e. with a PARKY S KRENEM (Sausage with Horse-Radish), or with the famous PRAZSKA SUNKA(Prague Ham) The reputation of Czech gastronomy also comes from many other pork specialities, like JITRNICE (Black Pudding) or MORAVSKE KLOBASY(Moravian Sausage). The variety of dishes is not that rich; but quality saves the situation. For instance, you will find much distinction in the HOVEZI MASO (Boiled Beef), national Czech speciality, which requires much care to be perfectly tender and tasty. It is served with different kind of sauces, from which we kindly advise you to choose the KRENOVA OMACKA. Except beef and smoked pork, Czech people like poultry (DRUBER) very much, as far as game (ZVERINA) and goose (HUSA). The latest should come from Libusa: very well fed, their weight can rise up to 12 kilograms (26 pounds). Hares (ZAJIC) are much fatter than in Western Europe, and their meat is delicious. Vegetables are not appreciated that much; except, of course, potatoes (BRAMBORY) which come with almost any all kind of dishes. It often alternates with dumplings (KNEDLIKY), made of basic flour and quite heavy for western stomachs, indeed. Sometimes, KNEDLIKYare served with sugar as a popular dessert in cheap PIVNICE (pubs) and HOSPODA (taverns). The appetite of Czech people is impressive: they can swallow up to 50 KNEDLIKY in one dinner, drinking huge volume of beer ! Sometimes they add plum and curd cheese on the dumplings, certainly making it the highest calories dish in the world... Pastry (MOUCNIKY) received the Austrian heritage. For instance, the famous JABLKOVY ZAVIN is nothing but an apple-struddel. They make it very well here, and a visit to a KAVARNY (coffee shop) is a must when staying in Prague. The ones in the Castle Area (Hradcany) are picturesque and friendly. They serve the delicious LIVANCE(Sweet Blinis with Jam). ALCOHOL: As we already mentioned, beer is a favourite in Czech Republic. Anyway, wine is not bad either. So you should try one of the best vintages, like red MELNIK. Strong and heavy, it tastes like Hungarian Egri Bikaver, or world famous Spanish Sangre de Toro. Moravian wine is good quality and value. Bohemia makes excellent sparkling wines. There are also imports from Slovakia, though quality doesn't match the Czech standards. A favourite digestive is the BECHEROVKA (with fresh herbs extracts), actually excellent for the stomac. The bitter FERNET is a direct concurrent: popular as an aperitive, is is also used as a digestive. The MERUNKA, an apricot brandy quite similar to the German Schnaps, strong and tasty, is a basic beverage upcountry. Selected restaurants in PRAGUE: Updated 29/09/2009 Charles
Bridge & Kampa Island, Old Town, New
Town , Prague Castle & Residential
Areas
OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN THE CHARLES BRIDGE AREA (MALA STRANA & KAMPA ISLAND): KAMPA
PARK (****): A trendy restaurant for smart
people, the KAMPA PARK We had actually a great lunch at KAMPA PARK. Due to favourable weather conditions, we sat at the riverfront terrace rather than inside the elegant modern dining room. The all restaurant has been recently totally refurbished -not to say reconstructed- and takes much pride in this Californian style room, which has been planned and designed by the owner. But the terrace is so romantic. Practicable almost all year long, thanks to its heating columns, it was quite full the day of our visit. At first sight a good mark for a restaurant. We have not been dissappointed at all by a more than honest -not to say delicious! - cuisine, and a friendly though efficient and quick service. Expensive compared with the Czech standards, we found the fares perfectly affordable for westerner. We tried first of all the Bouillabaisse: typical fish soup, originated from Marseilles, with mussels, clams, fennel and saffron aioli. Despite of its global concept and taste (lots of paprika powder make it sweeter that the original), we found it interesting. At CZK 365 this is worth being experienced. More than delicious was the starter we enjoyed with a glass of Moët & Chandon well chilled Champagne: a Pheasant Breast, with Roquefort and Herbs au Gratin. Served with Pears between crispy Ciabatta and Raisin Sauce. Game in Czech Republic is one of the best in the world, and this fare was appealling at CZK 295 a generous portion. Curious though wise -they have a lot of Japanese guests- Shashimi stasters and salads were also available a la carte. We were about selecting a Grilled Seabass, served with Chanterelles, Salsify, Spinach, homemade Herbed Ravioli and Tomato, with Vodka salsa; but have been kindly advised to try the "plat du jour": a Poached Halibut, served with Sauteed Spring Vegetable and Creamy Forest Mushrooms Foam. The fish was ideally steamed, and the vegetables certainly cooked into a "Wok" (the Thai way): which preserved their natural taste and crunchy texture. This is one of the most expensive fares, at CZK 695. Of course, there is also Iranian caviar for the happy few... Our dessert was a Cinnamon Crème Brulée, with Dried Pear Chips, Caramel Crust and Pear Coulis (CZK 245), very much "nouvelle cuisine Française": that style the starred Michelin restaurants like to propose. A classical and ad hoc way to close a fine lunch. We appreciated it with a glass of Chilean white wine (many brands and vintages available under CZK 1,000 a bottle), we found so conviently palatable that we decided to follow up the all lunch without switching to some more expensive alternative: like French wine in the CZK 1,500-2,000 bracket, Champagne or "Special Reserve" featuring Grand Crus. There is a wide clientele for platinium priced liquid anyhow: the KAMPA PARK welcomes so many VIP guests cleaning up the very best of its precious ceilar. From State President Vaclav Havel (a renowned dinner!) till Hillary Clinton, Caroline de Monaco, or Madeleine Allbright, this is a politically targeted place. Movie stars like Jeremy Irons, Sylvester Stallone or Arnold Schwarzenegger (another world famous gourmet) are also part of it. Which might be a second good mark. The KAMPA PARK is also well known for its Champagne bar, where local society likes to join after dark. A much recommended restaurant for tourists, businessmen and Prague's residents. KAMPA
PARK: Na Kampe 8b, Mala Strana, 110 00 Prague 1
Honesty with the bill ; and, even more important, honesty with the food. After crossing a trendy dining, designed like the rest of the restaurant by Nils Jebens, we sat on the terrace. At a riverside table . The panorama is amazing. We should write « made in Hollywood » : cinemascope over the bridge, and dolby surround with a jazz session entertaining the guests (which happens only when VIP groups visit the restaurant ; which means many times a week…). The « Jidelni Listek » (menu, in Czech language) is based on the one of those hundred pizzeria you can find in Prague. But here stops banality. A close capture on it demonstrates that Italy is only part of the culinary trip : the HERGETOVA CIHELNA copes more generally with Mediterranean cuisine. Often quite imaginative. Let's start, for instance, with the Roasted Squids, with Couscous Tabuleh, Fresh Tomatoes and Brown Butter Sauce. What a well balanced meal : juicy squid, light tabuleh (nothing to do with that stuffy mixture served in Lebanon), and the acidity of the natural tomatoes sweetened by the butter. This is alchemy, indeed. We DID like that starter. Expensive ? Come on! : CZK 245 for a more than generous portion. As a main meal, if you feel quite hungry, do like us and try the Saffron Seafood Risotto, with Squid, Shellfish and Lobster Broth. Beneficently served, with salmon and fresh clams (up to the season) as a bonus. Creamy, but still light. Palatable and tasty : this would fit in term of quality the best Trattorias in Rome. At CZK 285… But what Nils is particularly proud of are the Pizzas. Pretentiously « the very best in Prague » ? Let's try it ! From the famous « Margherita » (CZK 155) till the « Margherita di Parma » (pomodoro sauce, parmesan, aragula, Parma ham, mozzarella, basil, olive oil) at CZK 245 (the most expensive and the richest), 16 varieties of pizzas are available. We took a « Pugliese : with pomodoro sauce, onions, artichokes, mozzarella, olive oil, and an imported spicy cheese of the highest quality, liberally spread over the brown paste cooked in a traditional oven by Vincenzo: imported, like the cheese, from the best origin. Napoli, of course ! So, the boss was not that pretentious. We must admit that in a city like Prague, where 2 or 3% of the Pizzerias are good (which is an excellent percentage somehow), the HERGETOVA CIHELNA comes number one with its exotic pizzaiolo. We had the all lunch with two glass of Pillsner Urquell beer CZK 55 / half litre. But those who prefer wine can have it either by bottle, either by the glass (CZK 125 for 0.15 l of « Santa Cristina Antinori Toscana » sounds more than acceptable). As a desert, if you still fee hungry after the gargantuan pizza, go straight to the Tiramisu « Cihelna » (CZK 165) or the distinguished Crème Brulée with Apple Chips, and Apple-Basil Chutney (CZK 155). Delicious with an Espresso Piccolo. Opened daily from 11:30am untill 2:00am (while Prague falls asleep at midnight…). Rush there before the management
wakes up and increase the prices ! Well worth the visit !
HERGETOVA
CIHELNA: Cihelná 2b, Prague 1
OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN (STARE MESTO): U
MODRÉ RUZE (The Blue Rose) (*****) :
Romantically located between Staromestska
and the Venceslas square, settled in a lovely cellar The virtuoso pianist softly plays the best of Burt Bacharach on his boudoir grand Petrof, while one of the most discreet though efficient staff in town treats you with like a knight. « A la carte », we could find a multitude of classical specialities. U MODRÉ RUZE is « bourgeois », like those bygone days French restaurants. They have been step by step corrupted by the so called « Nouvelle Cuisine », and this is now in Prague -more precisely in a restaurant like this- that our palate can still enjoy Roast Duck, Smoked Pork or Flambéed Desserts. We have been therefore as classical as possible, starting with the Half Dozen Stuffed Escargots in Burgundy Way : sauced with red wine, provençal spices, and garlic. Served with toasts, they are –unique infringement of the receipt by Escoffier- generously gratinated with cheese. Somehow « A la Thermidor ». This was first time we had snails cooked that original way ; but we must say that we found it more than delicious. An interesting discovery, at CZK 350. We liked also very much the grilled Sweetbread of Veal “diplomat”, trimmed with goose liver and bacon, served on a toast with a rich, creamy truffle cream sauce (CZK 440). The Home made goose paté with fresh fruits is very authentic (CZK 270). Ladies will certainly prefer the "Mediterranean Salade with Grilled Tiger Prawns" (CZK 350), with pinapple & sherry tomatoes. The prawns were actually good sized, crunchy prawns; and not those tasteless, ordinary shrimps served everywhere downtown... During a previous visit, some months ago, we enjoyed with a similar delectation the Little Crayfish Tails: served mild, with a discreet saffron sauce and stewed vegetables, this is a delicacy everybody can afford at only CZK 440. Their “maître saucier” excels in his delicate job. We found both tasty and elegant, indeed, the red caviar sauce served over the Grilled Fillet of Norwegian Salmon, with blue mussels, flavoured with lemon pepper, basil pesto, and backed with Parmesan Cheese (CZK 620). Plenty of gourmets travellers visit the Czech Republic for its game. Wild, natural and savourous, it is available at one fourth of its price in Western Europe and the USA. This is opportunely a speciality of the chef. We therefore targeted our main meal on the products of the Bohemian forests : sharing portions of duck and mufflon. The Grilled Wild Duck Breast Larded with Bacon, served with Currants in Plum Brandy Sauce came first. The flesh was so naturally perfumed that we first believed we had been served mufflon. We would hardly find elsewhere than in Czech Republic (Poland, Hungary or Rumania) such a top quality game. The essence of the sauce, mixed with french currants and a generous measure of alcohol, was an ideal counterbalance to the virile taste of the duck. At CZK 690, this is an absolute must for the game lover, who will also like the grilled Pheasant Breast with Mushrooms Salad: in Madeira Sauce, with bacon, mushrooms salad, and exquisite custard marrows (with a taste quite similar to the artichoke), at CZK 570. Alternatively, the Grilled Duck Breast (CZK 490), marinated in honey and coriander, comes tender, medium rare, and constitutes on of the restaurants signatures. Our favourite remains the rare Grilled Filets of Fawn: not on the menu, it is proposed to the happy dinners only in Autumn. Served with a Red Fruits sauce (Red Currants or Sherries, depending on the day), this is well worth being ordered, at CZK 690 only. If you like beef, do not hesitate, and straightly order the Tournedos with Langoustine (CZK 690). Some might say "what a strange union"! We did, at first sight. But actually we loved the combination. Our tournedos, that we had medium, was tender like butter (this is Czeck meat from a small farm located in South Bohemia), and came grilled, dressed in slim bacon. Superb quality! You can enjoy the langoustines separately, or with the sirloin. Try it, and you will see: that's simply amazingly good. It comes with a small "cassolette" countaining olive oil, garlic, chillic and aromatic herbs: light and pleasant alternative to the usual pepper sauce. The much acclaimed Grilled Lamb Chops marinated in olive oil, flavoured rosemary, and served with young onion in caramel, are one of the chef's specialities. The portion was gargantuan, indeed: 5 large pieces! For CZK 570 only . Our lamb was tender, pinky, with a marvellous, natural taste which was not betrayed but enhanced by the ideally not so creamy nor so spicy sauce. The kind of course which makes the guests coming back (our American couple of neighbours was on his third visit within one single week!). We ended our dinner with a Sweet Kiss : fresh strawberries with honey and green pepper, flambéed with Grand Marnier, skilfully prepared on a trolley by the table. You will like it even more when you will know that it only costs CZK 340. Same stylish preparation for the divine Pancake "Milly", flambéed with a generous (almost lethal!) dose of precious Cognac and Cointreau, stuffed with cut fresh fruits, and trimmed with whipped cream (CZK 390). Alternatively, try the Parfait Marasquin,(CZK 250): it comes with sweet sour morello cherries, and cinnamon glacé which give this delicacy a very subtle perfume. The wine list features a wide variety of international vintages, for all tastes and all budgets : it goes from the very interesting South Moravian «Chateau Valtice, Velke Pavlovice, Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2005» we enjoyed with our meat (CZK 190 by the 2 dl glass), till the « Margaux Premier Grand Cru 1978 » (at CZK 46,200 !). Good selection of Champagne: try by the glass their daily selection (CZK 350). The evening we visited the restaurant, their offered a Mumm Cordon Rouge, which came well chilled and perfect with the Mediterranean Salad. Exactly the kind of restaurant we like to recommend : stylish without ostentation, bourgeois but not conceit, actually delicious, this is the place where Bacchus and Luculus would like to dine out. Advanced booking is recommended: this institution is usually full for dinner, and it should be a pity to miss it during a visit to Prague. Major credit
cards accepted. Opens Mon-Sat 11.30-23.30 & Sun 18-23.30.
U
MODRÉ RUZE: Rytírská 16, 110 00 Praha 1 (Old Town)
LA
PROVENCE (****): With
some imagination the Stupartska street would look like almost Parisian.
It smells French indeed, since Nils Chef Laurent Picca, after some training in Baden Baden and San Diego, settled in Prague some years ago. Not so obsessed by the now quite obsolete Nouvelle Cuisine Française, he prefers to develop a somehow upgraded bistrot concept which goes with the place… and our culinary tastes. His menu is rich, indeed: with, for instance, not less than 17 starters. We selected the typical Cassolette d’Escargots de Bourgogne: snails, cooked the way we like, with a strict respect of this wonderful regional receipt. You can order 6 or 12 snails. At CZK 235 / EURO 8 we selected the first option, and asked for a second starter: a Carpaccio de St Jacques (CZK 425 / EURO 14). This pure delicacy came with dill, lemon, and extra virgin olive oil. That was a marvel of both texture and taste. We warmly recommend it. Those who want to feel the air of our regions (Central France, and more particularly the beautiful Berry) should try the Crottin de Chavignol Salad: the “Crottin” is one of the best AOC label protected cheese in France. It can be enjoyed fresh, or aged: its graduation of taste goes interesting after a few weeks. Backed, the way we had it at La Provence, this is a fabulous starter which merits to be discovered or rediscovered. At CZK 345 / EURO 11, this is nevertheless the only course that we found quite overpriced in the very reasonable menu. Coming back to the good value, great meals: don’t miss the Soupe de Poisson Méditerranée (CZK 285 / EURO 10). This is a Bouillabaisse, without rowed seafood inside. Even those from Marseilles will like it. Let’s follow up with fish as a main course. The new owner was born in Norway, and considers the sea like his second mother. Much effort has been done to bring the freshest ingredients into the plate. The Tournedos de Lotte (grilled monk fish), seasoned with red honey butter sauce, accompanied by vegetable rice and buttered spinach, is a best seller at CZK 695 / EURO 22. We rather ordered a classic Homard Grillé (grilled lobster) with sautéed seasonal vegetables: not an aristocratic blue lobster from Britany, though still a much palatable good sized crustacean from Canada, sold out a perfectly decent price (CZK 1,595 / EURO 51). Those preferring meat can try the Lapin à la Moutarde (rabbit cooked with a mustard sauce): Czech rabbits are healthy, with a good textured tasty flesh. At CZK 395 / EURO 13 it would satisfy everybody. We have also seen a Cassoulet du Midi, at CZK 695 / EURO 22; the menu indicates that it has been prepared with “figs and apricots”. We escaped in from of such an audacity; but it could be delicious, why not? The chef looks like a sane gentleman… Chef Picca elaborated a special, separate “Dessert Menu”, for the most gourmands of the gourmets. The Rasberry au Gratin, with almonds and vanilla ice cream (CZK 265) and the Iced Soufflé au Cointreau, with rhubarb compote and grilled almonds (CZK 245) are simply worth the trip. The later was not so sweet, and well balanced with light acidity of the rhubarb. Excellent selection of wines, featuring some grands chateaux; if you do like us, and take by the glass a white “Vin de Pays d’Oc, Domaine Laroche, Sauvignon Blanc” (CZK 135 per glass), ideal with the fish, or a red “Cotes du Luberon AOC, La Tource de Mirail” (CZK 125 per glass) with the meat, you won’t get ruined. With the lobster, feel generous and order a “Bollinger Cuvée Special”, at CZK 2,400 or, why not, a “Perrier Jouet -Belle Epoque-” (CZK 5,450), that we have always found superior to the “Dom Perignon” (CZK 6,490) which remains a best seller in Prague top class restaurants. We ended up our agape with a cigar: the humidifier displayed the best brands. We took a “Sancho Panza” (CZK 550): its sweet, complex savour goes well with a glass of Cointreau. Or a Cognac, of course. It was well presented by the maitre d’hôtel, and a long ashtray to leave it more conveniently came to our table. Very classy service! “C’est si bon!” was our global sensation during the all dinner. Warmly recommended restaurant, “bien entendu”! LA
PROVENCE: Stupartska 9, 110 00 Praha 1
INDIAN
JEWEL (****): Indian restaurants are scarce
in Prague; until the recent opening of the Indian Jewel, experiencing a
great curry or a succulent tandoori was nothing but a phantasm for those
dreaming of a spicy experience. The day of our dinner, the elegant dinning
room, A master with the Tandoori, Head Chef Devinder Sharma Pandit, has a total 20 years of experience in 5 star hotels and restaurants in India and around the world. He knows all the secrets of a nostalgic, lavish cuisine which was presented to generations of kings and Mogul Emperors. Though some simple fares are available on the extensive menu, the Indian Jewel is not the place for common dishes. We found this upscale restaurant much oriented to gastronomy. There is definitely as much difference between it and some Indian fast food, as between a self-service and a Michelin starred restaurant... We have been spoiled during a couple of hours, with a selection of aristocratic specialities. Large tables, fine cutlery, china plates and precious glasses reflect the standing of the restaurant. The anticipating, 100% Indian staff, knew and described with plenty of mouth-watering details and anecdotes, any dish we had ordered. The “Samosas”, deep fried patties stuffed with spiced minced lamb (CZK 160), were delicate and crispy. This dish is so popular, that it is also part of the Turkish, Iranian and Somalian gastronomies. We salivated, just looking at the remarkable “Tandoori Jhinga”: one of the most expensive dishes on the menu (CZK 490), though certainly one of the best, it featured crunchy prawns, grilled with a selection of richly flavoured, slightly hot spices. It was not fat at all. We warmly recommend it. Very palatable, the “Malai Seekh” was one of the best Kababs of lamb we ever experienced. The chef is actually a wizard: knowing how to balance the savors of spices; the “Malai Seekh” came like a perfect illustration of his maetria. Heavier, though amazingly yummy, the curried specialities are a must-be-tried. The “Machi Masala”, delicately flavoured fish curry, and the “Murgh Pasanda”, chicken in a light almond sauce, would treat a Maharajah. We ordered the “Lamb Vindaloo” (CZK 360), a spicy lamb curry with potatoes: brought to Goa by the Portuguese, this delicacy is a meal often served during special occasions. We finished with a vegetarian dish: a “Sag Paneer” (CZK 200), made out of home-made, fresh cottage cheese with spinach, which was excellent and light. Our side dish was an appetizing saffron rice, with a selection of those extraordinary Naan, Pudina Parantha, and Bharwan Kulcha soft, layered breads, home-made in the Tandoori oven. They are part of the magic Indian cuisine, and we could eat tons of them... We had the whole dinner with Lassi (CZK 70): a traditional drink made by blending yoghurt with water, salt, pepper, ice and Indian spices. So refreshing! Some guests would prefer the excellent Masala Tea or, why not, Champagne which fits so well a spicy and richly flavoured cuisine. The Czech “Bohemia Sekt Brut” is fine and affordable, at CZK 399 per bottle. The lavish French “Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial” costs CZK 1899. Though we asked for smaller portions, all our dishes have been served with a prodigality suiting a Mogul Emperor, indeed. Do not hesitate, and do like us: ask for a “doggy bag”, just to repeat back home the marvellous experience of the well named Indian Jewel. Last but
not least: the restaurant is located
a stone throw from the Old Own Square, in the quiet, historical Tyn Square,
with a very romantic terrace. Which comes as a bonus to the best Indian
restaurant in Prague.
INDIAN
JEWEL: Týn 6, Prague 1
U
DOMINIKANA (****): Located
in a the 14th Century premises of the lavish hotel
Savic, in the center of Prague «Triangle of Gold», a few
steps from the Old Town square, this The long and straight dinning room, decorated in a warm, rustic style, opens on the spacious summer patio where we had our supper. The menu is international: which means a large, clever choice of Italian specialties, pastas, salads. Besides, there is an excellent «Czech Specials» (on a separate menu), which we experienced with a bottle of refreshing, white «Torrontes Premium, Mendoza Alta Vista» (CZK 890 / EUR 38): a clear, straw color Argentinean wine, with a very appealing aroma that blends distinct lemon zest with a heady floral scent in the gardenia family. The «Stuffed Brie Cheese with Walnuts and Herbs», accompanied by Cranberry Marmalade and fresh Lettuce (CZK 169 / EUR 6.25), a delicious, calorie rich appetizer, alternates with the «Spicy Marinated Chicken Wings», barbecue sauce (CZK 139 / EUR 5.15), ideal for kids, and the light, mouth watering «Parma Ham in Honey Melon», served on a grilled Goat Cheese with Balsamic Reduction. At CZK 179 / EUR 6.60, we recommend this specialty. Don't order any appetizer if you decide to have, as a main dish, the «Traditional Moravian Plate» (CZK 249 / EUR 9.25). One of our favorites: mixing smoked pork, roasted duck, and spicy sausage, accompanied with sweet and sour Red Cabbage, Potato Bread and Bacon Dumplings. It will make you filled up the whole evening... As a lighter alternative, try the very tender «Marinated Beef Sirloin», sweet and sour creamy sauce, with Bread Dumplings, Lemon and Cranberry Marmalade (CZK 299 / EUR 11). Fine desserts. U Dominikana confectioner's cakes make guests swoon with pleasure. Favorites are the «Apple Strudel», with Walnut Ice Cream and Maple Leaf Syrup (CZK 109 / EUR 4) and the «Tiramisu Mille-Feuille», with Strawberries sauté (CZK 109 / EUR 4). Anticipating
service, and free WiFi access spot complete the excellent impression made
by this restaurant which, due to its popularity, is often fully booked.
Reservation is therefore suggested on working days, and essential on week
end.
U
DOMINIKANA (HOTEL
SAVIC): Jilska 7, 110 00 Prague 1
U
ZLATÉ KONVICE (****): Very popular
among locals for wedding receptions or graduation parties, this 14th century
wine cellar is also a favourite for tourists: pouring by groups The first room (a lounge with mural paintings of beheaded Czech lords) is usually used as a pub. Diners tend to sit in the larger « Konšelský sál ». Under high Roman and Gothic vaulted ceilings. The stone walls, period furniture, historic weapons, coats of arms, tin articles and trophies (you will notice the splendid wild bear, right by the entrance) enhance the atmosphere... already warmed up by the live music (from Thursday until Sunday evening) and songs of groups which obviously like Prague and its reputed beers! The place is touristy. So what about food? We have not been disappointed; on the contrary, we have experienced here a wealthy, epicurean regime. Those who, like us, like grilled meat will definitely have good time at U Zlaté Konvice. There is a large open fire chimney to cook the thick pieces of steak, poultry, or this wonderful piglet which appears to be the house most wanted speciality. The roaster is as old as sophisticated; animated by a long belt, pulling a solid attraction to a strange, ageless clock-like engine made out of dozens of gears. An attraction on its own... Should you come by a group of 10 or more, straight order a whole piglet (CZK 5700). Else, have it like us by a generous portion, served with horseradish, at CZK 550. The flesh is smooth, and the skin very crispy. Surprisingly, not fat at all. Much recommended. The « Grilled Pork Knee » for two (CZK 590) is a good value, delicious alternative that many people ordered the evening of our visit. But we preferred to try an Old Bohemian speciality: the « Roast duck with cabbage ». It looks and tastes quite a lot like that wonderful, aromatic duck, main ingredient of the French South-East well famed « Cassoulet ». Served with three types of dumpling (the typical Czech « knedlidky »: very heavy; rather order one of the fine salads). The portion was extremely generous (½ duck) and good value, at only CZK 320. Those who would like to try many meat specialities in the same plate should order without hesitation the mouth watering « Bourgeois Platter ». Normally for two persons (400 gr), it features black and white pudding, roast pork, smoked meat, sauerkraut, and a selection of dumplings (CZK 410). Those who like fish will definitely enjoy the « Jewish Style Tench » (CZK 340), with roasted potatoes. It was very fresh. Well cooked, with its unique natural taste not covered by any spice or superfluous artefact. We had it all with one bottle of local Moravian « Frankovka » red wine (CZK 750). Very nice quality, with a light taste of barrique, and a perfect combination with the meat and -yes, indeed!- the freshwater fish. The desserts are fitted for already full stomachs. Not so heavy. The « Apple strudel » (CZK 120) is palatable. Though we rather ordered a Plum liqueur (CZK 100): perfect taste, and ideal for a quick digestion. Friendly, efficient staff; despide of the impressive number of guests, they always have a smile particular attention and for everybody. Nice
place! A must for visitors looking for atmosphere.
U
ZLATÉ KONVICE: Staromestské námestí 26,
110 00 Prague 1
U
ORLOJE (****): U
Zlaté Konvice sister restaurant is located next door, and serves
the same specialities in a very elegant room and amazing outdoor terrace:
with a view on the Besides the specialities already described in our review of U Zlaté Konvice, U Orloje proposes more international fares with a sophisticated note. Like the «Grilled Quail», with herb and egg stuffing, potatoes au gratin with mushrooms, spinach and cream (CZK 380). The «Venison Chine» in a mushroom crust, parsley sauce, cranberry compote and potato cakes (CZK 560). The «Tricolour Fish Kebab», with salmon, swordfish and giant prawns, tomato salsa, baked potato with spinach and mozzarella (CZK 610). Or excellent pastas, like the «Spaghetti with Garlic», basil, and white wine (CZK 235). Fine desserts are available: try for instance the «Hot Sour Cherries» with liqueur, sour cherry ice cream and Parisian whipped cream (CZK 190). There is
an extended selection of Czeck wines (mostly from the quite reputed Mikulov
area) and Italian, France, Spain, Chile or Californian good bottles.
U
ORLOJE: Staromestské nám. 479/25, 110 00 Praha 1
TAVERNA
TOSCANA (****): This
large, strategically located Italian restaurant, with a terrace on the
most popular pedestrian area in the Foreign visitors, on their way to the Astrological Clock, like to sit at the terrace or in the romantic grotto-like Gothic cellar, and enjoy a pizza (among the best in town: try for instance their “Napoli”!). Residents –including Czech President Vaclav Klaus in person: a regular guest- go straight to the second part of the restaurant, called “Piano Bar”: accessible directly from street Michalská 22, this is an elegant sanctuary, animated every evening by live music, offering delicacies of the Tuscan Cuisine: including fresh fish and other seafood. When comes the fine weather, there is a summer garden in the atrium. The “Antipasti” are authentic and palatable like in a Firenze trattoria. Affordable (in the CZK 120 – 300 range), they feature peasant specialities like the “Bruschetta al Pomodoro” ( 3 x garlic bread with fresh tomatoes), the “Crostini Toscani” ( 4 x tuscany toasts with chicken liver), and the “Bruschette al Lardo di Colonnata” (bread topped with bacon from Tuscany ). Modern and sophisticated palates will like the “Carpaccio di Copa di Rospo” (Monk fish Carpaccio) and the “Carpaccio di Tonno” (Tuna fish Carpaccio). We warmly recommend that treasure of authentic Tuscan delicatessen called “Antipastissimo Toscano”: Soprassata (one of the best brawn we have ever experienced!), Finochiona, Salame Toscano, Prosciutto Pepato Toscano, Coppa, Salame Cinghiale, Salsiccia Cinguiale. Enjoy it with some pizza bread: the most delicious in Prague. First course (rather say “Primi Piatti”) are abundant. We have chosen their reputed “Risotto ai Funghi Porcini” (Risotto with mushrooms), at CZK 280. Not recommended to calories fighters, we found it creamy and richly flavoured. Genuine! Great choice of “Pasta” (in the CZK 250 – 300 range). Amateurs straight order the “Bucatini all Amatriciana, con Coda di Rospo” (Bucatini with Monk fish, tomato, bacon, onion, parsley and cheep cheese). As a second course we liked very much their “Orata incrosta di Sale” (Sea bream, baked in a thin salt crust). Wonderful texture. Perfect taste. Ideally salted. The TAVERNA TOSCANA is the unique place in Prague –maybe in the all country- where you will be served this delicacy. Which we have found affordable, indeed, at CZK 230 per 100g (you will be served about 150 – 200g). Good selection of regional cheese: like Pecorino, Mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano… (between CZK 130 and 260). We had two desserts. Please just do like us: most of them are not heavy at all, and the price do not exceed CZK 140. The “Panna Cotta”, for instance: so nicely presented, and so sweetly flavoured. Even better: their “Mousse di Cioccolato al Rum” is simply great. It goes well with a “Ristreto” coffee. Rich wine list, with a fair selection of Champagne and “Spumante”. The “Morellino” 2001 (CZK 900) and the Chianti “Il Morino, Vignamaggio” 1999 (CZK 1090) go along with most of the dishes; remaining even still acceptable with the fish (good white wine available for the connoisseur). Gina Lollobrigida, Tom Cruise, Jeremy Irons, Sean Connery, and Bruce Willis have visited this restaurant. Sometimes repeatedly. Experience it once, and you will be seduced also. TAVERNA
TOSCANA: Malé Namesti 11 & Michalska 22, Prague 1
LA
BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO (***): A stone's throw from the Old City
Square (Staromestska), this is our favourite place for a fun though stylish
evening. Since 2002, this franchise of the world Guests can use the terrace, the bar area with its walls covered with pictures, photographs and guests signatures, the restaurant downstairs (we like it despite - or maybe because- of its noisy and smoky animation), or the quiet, sophisticated dining room upstairs, next to one of the city richest walking « humidor » featuring an amazing variety of « puros » imported directly from Cuba, and sold out at attractive prices. First visit is always for the cocktails, bringing to La Bodeguita 80% of its fame. A crowd of smart clients (wealthy local peoples, and many expats), including the most beautiful women in the country, stands in a Colonial style atmosphere, by a replica of the « Sloopy Joe's Bar » in Havana, enjoying up to 150 types of long and short Caribbean drinks. The best seller remains, of course, the legendary « Mojito », with white rum, sugar, soda and fresh mint. A favourite for Ernest Hemingway: « My mojito in La Bodeguita! ». Second visit is for the live music: with Cuban (but also Argentinean, Colombian...) classics, merengue and salsa, each evening, in the bar and downstairs area. And third visit, the one which makes you come back, again and again, is for the restaurant. The cuisine improved very much this last couple of years: night clubbers mixing now with more and more gourmets. Unless you come for lunch (La Bodeguita operates all day long), booking is actually essential to enjoy the wonderful « cocina criolla » (Creole cuisine), featuring splendid « Cuban style steaks » (in fact, from Argentina) and mouth-watering seafood served in large, very large portions at definitely good value price. Ariel Bruno and Jaroslav Zahalka,
both holders of the « Chefs des Chefs » honorary certificate
awarding those cooking for presidents and statesmen, prepare a palatable
«Bouillabaisse a la Criolla» (CZK 210): a Creole fish
soup with prawns and sea mussels, served with toasts: a popular starter,
suitable as a light main course. Another specialty we regularly order when
visiting the restaurant: the « Grilled Octopus and Calamars
», with a rich black carnaroli rice risotto and rocket salad. This
is our favourite: at CZK 350 only, we have always been astonished by the
quality of this dish, served in a very generous portion. We would also
warmly recommend the « Grilled Tuna Steak » (CZK 350),
with roasted seasonal vegetables, potatoes and sweet basil aioli.
Medium cooked, the thickly sliced tuna tastes like a pure delicacy.
The poultry is fine: try the « Risotto with Duck Breast and slice
of Truffle » (CZK 235), parmesan cheese and rocket salad. Meat
is a home specialty. With the « Lamb Chilindrón
» (CZK 245): delicious spicy pieces of lamb in a red wine sauce,
with Cuban baked potatoes « Mojo ». Or the Gargantuesque
«Mixed Grilled Meat Platter»: this is actually a huge
« Churrasco » the Argentinean style, featuring amazingly
tender Beef Filet (meat imported directly from La Pampa), pork sirloin,
pork ribs, lamb chops, chicken wings with «salsa Roja»
, tapenade from black olives, malanga, garlic bread, with Cuban baked potatoes
« Mojo ». It costs CZK 990 for two... though this dish
could feed up to three diners with a decent appetite! The « Ice
Lemon Cake with Forest Fruit Sauce » (CZK 150) is a good desert,
though many guests prefer to conclude this rich gourmet experience with
a « Mojito », a « Daiquiri Frappé
» (cocktails at CZK 129) or, even better, with a « Habana
Club 15 years ». This rum goes so matured that it somehow
tastes like a good Cognac! Great value (CZK 520), like all beverage served
at La Bodeguita (Chilean wine « Concha y Toro », white
or red, at CZK 90 by the glass, classy Taittinger brut reserve at 250 by
the glass, etc.).
We warmly recommend this piece of Havana in Prague. LA
BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO: KAPROVA 5, 110 00 PRAGUE 1
LA
CASA ARGENTINA (***): Opened
in January 2007, this large, comfortable and animated theme restaurant
is already much visited by local and foreign patrons. An Theme restaurant often means mediocre cuisine: that's the reason why our pages don't review that much this category. La Casa Argentina comes like an exception, with a great -though not sophisticated- selection of dishes. This is not the place for complicated receipt, but for fresh, natural, quick and well prepared specialties. Though not that much Argentinean, we ordered the « Plato Tapas » featuring the best Spanish ham (Serano; the best label with the Jabugo), sausage, chorizo and Montbriac cheese. It came with olives and delicious sun dried tomatoes. At CZK 255 / EUR 10.2 we found it a good appetizer. Ideal in the evening, where you can have it with a glass of Sandeman Sherry Seco CZK 85 / EUR 3.4. The « Risotto with Gorgonzola Cheese » (CZK 280 / EUR 11.2), is also fine. It is served with two very tender slides of Argentinean Tenderloin pouched in red wine. Which results in a very balanced, most pleasant taste and texture. This is one of our favourites on the extended menu. The « Rib Eye Steak » (« Ojo de Bife ») is a best seller at La Casa Argentina. It came on our table directly from the charcoal grill, with paprikas and eggplants, on a small warmer to keep it permanently at the right temperature. It displays all the qualities of the best Pampa beef: smooth like butter, juicy, with that special aroma one just find in South American steaks. Remarkable, and well worth on its own the visit to the restaurant, at only CZK 445 / EUR 17.8. Alternatively, experience the pork: our « Pork Neck with Garlic Butter » was palatable. We will come back on a Saturday evening, when the chef cooks his legendary « Lechon Asado »: suckling pork on the roaster, served with « Salsa Chimichuri » and fresh vegetables. The attractive wine list features a large selection of South American and European good bottles, for all budget. We ordered the cheapest one, just to check how the bottom line quality tasted like. Our Chilean « Merlot-Malbec » by the glass (CZK 129 / 5.2 EUR) matched fairly well the quality of our beef and pork. This is the right choice at lunch time; maybe for dinner could you order a classy « Gran Reserva Arnaldo B. , Bodegas Etchart – Cafayate Valley, 2000 ». At 1180 CZK / 47.2 EUR, this is great value for money for quite a unique wine coming from the end of the world (Patagonia). Note that the menu features attractive seafood, that we didn't experienced yet. The « Giant Shrimps with Black Risotto & Lobster Cream» are among the most expensive dishes on the menu, at CZK 1150 / EUR 46 for two pieces. But this is a delicacy that gourmet must experience. The « Monkfish with Pepper Sauce Parsley Pesto and Garlic Confit » is a guests' favourite, at only CZK 497 / EUR 19.9. As a dessert, we recommend the classic and classy « Crème Brulée with Fruit & Duet Chocolate » (CZK 190 / EUR 7.6), perfect with an Espresso Lavazza (CZK 59 / EUR 2.4). To finish your dinner, there is a remarkable selection of rums and Cognac that we advise you to order directly at the nicely designed bar, featuring the best barmen in Prague. Fine selction of cigars, imported directly from Cuba by Habanos; "aficionados" will find the rarest cigars brands at "La Casa del Habano" -same management like La Casa Argentina- located next door. Many attractions
in the evening (Tango, salsa, piano bar), and friendly service.
LA
CASA ARGENTINA: Dlouhá 35, Prague 1
OUR
FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN THE NEW TOWN (NOVE MESTO):
TRITON
(*****): Certainly
the most curious restaurant in Prague. Settled in a basement designed in
1912 into the style of a spooky Chef Michal Novak’s new Winter menu, balancing between audacious innovations and respect of the culinary traditions, fits very well the both original and bourgeois concept of his restaurant. Don’t skip the appetizers, which reflect very much his philosophy. He makes his Foie Gras the very French way; much different from those thick, tasteless, overcooked livers that we used to find in our plate in Budapest and Prague. Novak’s “Foie Gras with Nut Crust on Iceberg Salad and Fruit Sauce” (CZK 320) is a delicacy. The mixture of goose liver with duck liver is an alliance of elegance and character. It is actually aristocratic with a glass of “Tokay Aszu Royal 5 Puttunyos”: this rare, very sweet Hungarian wine (“The king of the wine, and the wine of the kings”) made out of dried grapes indeed costs a fortune in Western Europe; at CZK 180 per glass in Triton, this is like a present! Our tip: drink half of it, and keep the rest to enjoy your desert! Alternatively presented on the regularly updated menu, the “Variation of Duck Breast Appetizers” is a gourmand variation of what can be done with the best part of this excellent palmiped: the carpaccio, tartar and terrine were almost as great as our Foie Gras, and we recommend this fare. If by chance it is available the day of your visit. Those who prefer fish should try the “Marinated Saint Jacob’s scallops”: dipping the thin sliced scallops one by one in the small cup of chilled Gazpacho which comes along, before submitting them to the palate, would simply drive any gourmet to Paradise. Hell is that this splendid appetizer, like the Duck Breast, is not permanently proposed on the menu. Just ask Mr. Liska, the anticipating restaurant manager… With the complicity of the chef, he can make miracles. We had our scallops with a well chilled “Côtes de Gascogne, Caprice de Colombelle”. Vintage 2001, it was still young, bright and amazingly refreshing. At CZK 160 by the glass, that was the best choice: it went along ideally with fish, and invited us to follow up that sumptuous dinner with seafood as a main course. We found the “Grilled Fish Trio” (tuna, salmon, tiger prawns) definitely recommendable. The tuna time of cooking was certainly supervised by a Swiss watchmaker, as it came in our plate with the greatest texture and flavour we would ever have dreamed of. The steamed salmon was tasty, and the tiger prawns crunchy. Very fresh. This speciality brought us straight to the Mediterranean Sea shores: like in Marseille, it has been flavoured with Pastis (this aniseed alcohol goes so well with seafood!), and was served with courgettes and olives “tapenade”. At CZK 590 it should be a pity to deprive oneself of such a wonderful fare. Meat lovers can try the much affordable and rich “Czech Degustation Menu” (CZK 780), featuring Marinated Pork, Poultry Broth, Beef Sirloin and Roasted Duck (plus a desert!). Pantagruelian! Ideal for tourists willing to discover the authentic Bohemian cuisine. We rather had the lighter –and certainly more sophisticated- “Crown of Lamb”: smooth loin chops, divinely perfumed with a star of badiane, served with a potato purée and slightly caramelized cherry tomatoes. We had our meat with a “Carmenere, Misiones de Rengo, 2002”: an amazing Chilean red wine we will never forget. Full bodied, harmonious and fragrant, this is a rich wine for a modest price (CZK 750/bottle) Light like a cloud, refined and extremely original, we would like to recommend to the aesthete a vegetarian speciality we tried here for first time in our gourmet life: the “Smoked Vegetables”. Chef Novak uses a specially designed wood heater to smoke his fresh vegetables (mushrooms, courgettes… depending on the season) : the result is impressive. The smell and the taste are simply unique. Well worth being experienced, this only costs CZK 260. Served with Parma ham and olive oil, or –in our case- with an unctuous mushrooms risotto and diced balsamic vinegar jelly. We simply loved it! Deserts are as inventive as the rest of the menu. The “Almond Mille Feuilles” (CZK 160), filled with pear cream and chestnuts marinated in nougat is wonderful We can also advise you to try the light and subtle “Mandarin Parfait” (CZK 150), on strawberry and mint jelly, with caramel blanket. During our dinner, we could see a lot of guests ordering "flambées" (meat like Chateaubriand, and deserts like Crèpes Suzettes): which we will certainly experience next time we shall visit Triton again. They were prepared at the table with much skill and style. This romantic
and classy restaurant, animated in the evening by soft live piano music,
can host only 30 privileged guests. Advance booking is therefore suggested
for dinner.
TRITON
(HOTEL ADRIA): Vaclavske nam. 26
EPICURE
(****): For Epicurus,
the purpose of philosophy was to attain the happy life; gastronomy is part
of it, and the ancient Greek philosopher would certainly like A limited, though attractive selection of fish is available. We liked the light, tasty Butterfish (CZK 375 / EUR 15.00), seasoned with basil, and adored the mouth watering, crunchy "Grilled King Prawns" which came on our plate, seasoned with sweet fennel. At CZK 745 / EUR 30.00 for a generous portion, this is the specialty we would actually like to recommend to the... Epicureans! There is a decent selection of fine wines from Moravia, France, Italy and the New World. The latest category sounds the most attractive: both in term of quality and price. Though our French "Riesling d'Alsace, Cru Patergarten" (CZK 710 / EUR 28.50) was a good combination with both grilled meat and fish. Purists will certainly prefer the fragrant "Côtes du Rhone", AOC" (CZK 540 / EUR 21.50) with their steak. Want to make it "Bling"? The "Mumm Cordon Rouge" would sound perfect then: in Prague, where Champagne is not cheap at all, it remains quite a luxury, at CZK 2 300 / EUR 92.00. Good desserts: we recommend the "Fresh Strawberries with Balsamic, Pepper and Cream Mascarpone" (CZK 150 / EUR 6.00). End up your dinner with a glass of smooth, harmoniously balanced "Ron Zacapa Centenario": bottled after 23 years of aging in oak, up in the cooler high altitude climates of Guatemala. Why not with a heady Cuban cigar (we still can enjoy the pleasure of smoking in Czech restaurant; gourmets won't blame it!). Though this
warmly recommended restaurants is centrally
located and attached to a four star hotel,
this is still a hidden place for tourists; which creates a very local,
though high end atmosphere, with many famous artists (this is Karel Gott
-the Czech "Sinatra"- headquarter), lawyers, businessmen patronizing the
newly opened though already well established Epicure.
RESTAURANT
& BAR EPICURE (Hotel Sovereign): Opletalova 11, 110 00 Prague 1
SILENZIO
(****): Located
in a charming boutique hotel,
right in the heart of the historic Prague, at the beginning of the famous
Royal Road We had our dinner served amid arched ceilings, in a rustic though comfortable, large room, hosted in the foundations of this 14th Century building, where generations of guests entertained themselves throughout the ages. The menu is available in many languages: tailored made for the international hotel guests, who often prefer to sit here rather that eating out. Maybe because of the good value rates? Surely thanks to the excellent quality of the chef specialties and extended wine list. Our starter was a «Cream of Asparagus», delicious with its toasts (CZK 90), just to wait for the short preparation of our «Noisettes of Venison». The chef excels in game and meat specialties: stag, beef, veal and lamb. But we must admit that venison comes atop everything. It reflects the high quality of the Bohemian wild game, and the mastering of the cooking time: the flesh came tender, juicy and palatable in our plate. Without any invasion of aggressive spices, but with a light blackberry sauce. The portion was actually generous, at a mere CZK 570. We therefore warmly recommend this dish. More international, though excellent, we also tasted the «Fillet of Lamb, Richmond Style», with leaf spinach. Same price, and same high quality. Those liking beef should straight order the «Carpaccio» (CZK 210): a finely sliced Argentinean meat, with fresh Parmesan and olives. This is a starter; but those with a light appetite could have it as a main dish. Gourmets will prefer the thick «Steak of Beef», served with a Canterelles Cream Sauce. A best seller, at CZK 520. The restaurant sommelier likes Moravian wines. We must admit that the choice is large -if not huge- with a selection of hard to find bottles, issued from small vineyards. Among the best in Czech Republic. Foreign gourmets -mostly British and American- always like to enjoy those local brands. This is somehow a good choice. French people, like us, will find some good Bordeaux or Bourgogne. We had a «Château Gigognan, Clos du Roi, 2001»: at CZK 1050 per bottle, this «Châteauneuf du Pape» was a pure marvel. Its mixture of subtle, complex aromas (mature blackberry, kirsch, with some notes of leather and truffle...) matched the whole dinner. No need to spend more to enjoy a palatable experience. The «Panna
Cotta» (CZK 160), or the thick -quite heavy- local pancake with
blueberries, topped with cream («Livance») are recommended
as a desert. Don't hesitate to order some coffee: their Tonino Lamborghini
expresso is worth the visit. Finish your dinner enjoying the aristocratic
savour of the unique, late harvest "Rulandské sedé – slámové
2002": served well chilled, this multi-awarded straw wine is the sommelier's
pride.
A good,
romantic restaurant fitting any budget.
SILENZIO
(at hotel METEOR PLAZA):
Hybernska 6, 110 00 Praha 1
We didn't taste the highly reputed Norwegian Smoked Salmon "Czar Nikolas", served with warm blinis as an appetizer. To this imperial speciality we preferred, modestly, to enjoy the typical and proletarian Czech Soup with Potatoes and Dried Cepes. This was perfect: well perfumed by the mushrooms, and sweetened by carrots and parsley. We were just drinking out the last drop of our iced "Becherovka" -the "42 herbs made beverage"- when we were served with elegance a Duck with Red and White Cabbage. The roasted magrets were pleasantly crispy outside, while deliciously smooth inside. Tasty, and not fat at all. Some "Knedliky" (sort of Czech dumplings) accompanied the duck. This came well with a "Vino Lahvove Zrale - Ruland Ske Cervene 1992": a good, though little bit too young vintage for this Moravian red wine. In Czech Republic do like the Czechs do: we didn't taste the French wines, despite of a distinctive choice of sophisticated "Chateaux" with a millesime. We finished this pleasant dinner at the CLUB RESTAURANT with some Pancakes (blinis, in fact), topped with whortleberry and whipped cream. Always in action, wheeling about this and that, hiding his strict professionalism and permanent attention behind his entertaining and polyglot Czech humour, the restaurant manager -M.Hudek- insisted then to offer us a cup of Blue Mountain from Jamaica, imported from Rombouts' in Brussels. This nectar of coffee, coming from his personal stock, is reserved for the special attention of President Vaclav Havel, who likes to ask for it after each dinner. Do the same to really feel like VIPs ! Just forget price -who cares for this detail here ?- and don't leave the restaurant without listening little bit longer to the Polish guitarist playing... flamenco with maestria. There is also an excellent pianist, coming from the neighbouring Opera House. This is a great restaurant, and a unique atmosphere in Prague. CLUB RESTAURANT
(in PALACE HOTEL)
OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN THE CASTLE AREA (HRADCANY): COWBOYS
(****): Modish,
like all the restaurants operated by the Kampa
Group, this exclusive designer We started with “Grilled Prawns with Herbs, Chilli and Garlic”: half way between the Thai and Mediterranean influence, our seafood came pleasantly textured and seasoned. This is a best seller at CZK 345. Alternatively, we also would like to recommend the interesting "Sizzling Crab Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms & Herb Butter": we looked twice the amazingly attractive price (CZK 165) of this delicacy made out of the best origin French "Tourteau" meat, mixed with polenta, then smoothly cooked with mushrooms. Simply great with Champagne: try the Bollinger “Cuvée Spéciale”, at CZK 385 by the glass. Main dish should of course be a steak that you can have L, XL, or XXL. We ordered a medium, L "Filet Mignon". Wise choice: the generous portion of beef tenderloin which came in our plate would have been baptised XL in another restaurant... Most affordable at CZK 315. Maybe because this was local (Czech) meat? We found it top quality: tender and palatable. Some pieces of beef served at Cowboys are imported from the USA, Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay. But does it make a real difference? There is no noticeable gap, both in terms of quality and price. The imported "Rib Eye Steak", with a particular, strong flavour, which makes meat lovers come back, comes in the same price range (CZK 325, for L portion). This is a favourite of Nils, the gourmet owner of the restaurant; we liked it very much also, garnished with some "Sautéed Button Mushrooms", and enjoyed with a bottle of "Côtes-du-Rhône, Guigal, 2003". The rich flagrance of this full-bodied popular French brand suited very well the steak and its spicy wine sauce. At CZK 900, Nils considers it the best-valued bottle of its rich wine cellar. Among the attractive desserts (all at CZK 165), we selected a classic: the "Chocolate Fondant, with Forest Berries & Raspberry Sorbet". A pure marvel! Another "made in USA" must is the "Cheesecake with Chocolate and Strawberries": even if the chocolate chips enriching the cake might look like a sacrilege to the amateur, we found this improvement adequately palatable. Cigars aficionados will find a decent selection of "puros". Have it with a "Hennesy Fine de Cognac" (CZK 295) for instance. Note that, as a bonus, the restaurant features a lovely baroque summer garden, with a breathtaking view of Prague, the River Moldau and the Royal Castle. We found Cowboys attractive, funky (nice DJ music piping in), comfortable, and much over average in term of cuisine, indeed. Open daily 12 - 02am (Saturday & Friday till 3pm). COWBOYS:
Nerudova 40, 11000Prague 1
U
SEDMI SVABU ("The Seven Swabians") (***):
Steep climb the picturesque, paved Nerudova
street, in the direction to the Prague Castle. Our first experience in this unique pub was somehow surprising at first sight; though we soon coped with the atmosphere. Realizing that this is what plenty of travellers are looking for in Prague, indeed: a popular, animated, astonishing tavern like those already seen in the movies. Established only some five years ago by a Czech entrepreneur, it had all to be an artificial, rip off tourist trap; which is by no way the case. “U Sedmi Svabu” will please those who like socializing: everybody chats with everybody, from one table to another. There is no extra charge for the show, and the prices are extremely cheap for a solid, generous and delicious food adapted from original recipes from the 15th Century. This swashbuckler like tavern is not a cinema set: it also deals with real gastronomy. Picking up some “pucalka” (sprouted, fried and salted peas), we got through the thick, diversified menu, and found some treasures of the medieval cuisine, available nowhere else in Prague. Like the ”Millet Pancakes with Pickled Cabbage and Roasted Onions” (CZK 95): so generously served, that we shared it with our table companions! Or the “Cabbage Soup with Sausage and Sour Cream” (CZK 50): quite reminiscent of those rich soups available in the Spanish countryside, or in the Czardas lost in the remote Hungarian Great Plain. Very Czech was our “Roasted Venison on Cream Sauce with Bohemian Dumplings” (CZK 290): nice piece of wild game, ideally cooked (not over boiled, like in too many “restaurace”). Our favourite was the ”Wild Boar Goulash” (CZK 220)… and the great, wonderful, unique “Roasted Pork Knuckle with Horseradish and Mustard”. The best -indeed the best!- we had in our life. The portion which came on our table was giant. Normally, the smaller the better: big pieces tend to be harder, and therefore involve overcooking: showing dry, stringy meat. Which was by no mean the case at “U Sedmi Svabu”. The flesh was perfectly textured, tasty, with the most palatable skin we would have ever dreamed of: crispy, amazingly light and easy to eat. Our German neighbours were on their third visit in a couple of days! Just for the pork knuckle… and maybe also for the price: only CZK 295, for two people (at least!)… Small or larger groups can order (in advance) a whole roasted sucking pig. The very greedy (and with clear suicidal tendencies) can have a gargantuan “All you can eat and drink from the menu” at CZK 1,333. Actually, with a CZK 500-600 bill, you will leave the tavern completely full and satisfied. Those who have still some room, can try the “Fruit Dumplings with Cottage Cheese and Sour Cream”, which we liked very much (CZK 75). Good choice of quality beverages. We recommend their sweet, natural mead: the best in town. The beer is Krusovice: light, slightly bitter, top quality brand. The table wine, from Moravia, is more than acceptable: sold out at a symbolic price, by the glass, it goes very well with all the fares. We finished with a glass of Merunkovice (CZK 55): a delicious, quite strong local apricot brandy. The kind of place you can’t forget. Warmly recommended, both for fun and gastronomy. U
SEDMI SVABU: Jansky vrsek 14
118 00 Praha 1 - Mala Strana
OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN THE RESIDENTIAL AREAS: LA
CAMBUSA (****): Specialising
in fresh seafood and sea fish in a landlocked country, inhabited by more
than 15 millions pork eaters, After an aromatic, well chilled authentic "Gazpacho Andaluz" (CZK 80), came our appetizer. A "Freshwater Crayfish Salad", with a light "Aioli Sauce" : the delicious crustaceans, unfortunately scarce in our Western rivers, had been captured in Iran few hours ago, and swiftly sent by air to the Mr Plesky's cuisine. We were too absorbed by enjoying our food to count how many crayfishes laid in our plate: more than 15 pieces for sure! Could we afford it somewhere else in Europe, at a mere CZK 410 per portion? We guess no. Note that, alternatively, you could also have your crayfish mixed with a delicate avocado mousseline: this speciality is available, depending on the season, at CZK 140. As a main dish we ordered the "Tunisian King Prawns on a Skewer", . The taste on its own was a pure delight. 100% fresh from the Mediterranean sea, they were perfectly textured: crunchy, iodized, flavoured by the sea much more than by the cook. At CZK 430, this was like a present. Good alternative: the "tapas" like "Shrimps sautéed with Butter and Garlic" (CZK 350). Or the fresh, "Wild Salmon from Scotland, on a Skewer": quite similar to a Tandoor, whose quality is amazing (CZK 340). Salmon is also one of main ingredients of the "Fish Cassolette":with fresh vegetable and white wine, calamari, cod from Iceland, venus from France, and mussels from Holland. This round-the-world fishes stew has been recently included in the menu and will certainly meet a great success. Moreover when we saw we were only charged CZK 340 for it... An aristocratic "Turbot Fillet" came, last but not least. In Paris, London, or New York only the three star Michelin and ritzy palace hotels restaurants can still afford buying that fish, fresh, and by the piece. Astonishingly, this is also the case with this cozy restaurant. The fillet we could enjoy had been imported from Boulogne-sur-Mer: an excellent French origin. Let's even say: a label! Same unmatchable texture like with the Prawns; same healthy iodization of the flesh. Cooked without any artifice, our fish was accompanied by a "Morel Sauce" which was a pure delight. For CZK 590, you cannot miss it. We found our Freshwater Crayfish and Prawns delicious with a glass of aniseed French "Pernod": the way people enjoy such kind of meal in Marseilles. With the Turbot, white wine was like essential: we simply ordered the home wine: a "Chardonnay, Pays d'Oc, Vignerons du Val d'Orbiers" imported from France, young and refreshing, sold out less than CZK 90 per small jug (=2 medium size glasses, more or less). We are about forgetting to mention the bread: the best "Baguette Parisienne" we ever experienced in Prague! Homemade! Mr. Plesky is captivating when he describes how he prepares his specialities. Like the "Paella Valenciana" that we ordered during our last visit in September 2006: a rich, flamboyant paella, topped with a dozen of top fresh scampi, with a tasty, savourous rice mixed with baby octopus, John Dory, turbot, shrimps, sweet pepper, and minced asparagus which represent the chef's signature. It should be ordered a minimum of 24 hours in advance, for at least 4 four very, very gourmand people: portions are so huge that we could only eat a quarter of it! It costs only CZK 560 per person (despite of this, you will still hear some people in Prague calling La Cambusa an expensive restaurant... ). Or his "King Crab Raviolis" (CZK 350)... which will give us an opportunity to visit him again (normal: most of his guests are coming on a regular basis). Those who might be still hungry after enjoying generous portions of fish can order Cheese (imported from France and/or Italy), at CZK 160,00. Or, just like us, feel tempted by the unique though wonderful dessert: the "Crème Brulée" (CZK 120,00). Everybody will understand why LA CAMBUSA is a must for the French expatriates in Prague, and why Constantin Plesky has been awarded "Best Chef in Prague 2006" by the critics and readers of the well established "Grand Restaurant" magazine. Opened from Monday till Saturday, from 7pm till midnight. Lunch is also possible, after negotiation. Booking is not essential, but strongly recommended. A wonderful gourmet restaurant. LA
CAMBUSA: Klicperova 2, Praha 5
VILLA
VOYTA (****): One
of the Top 20 best restaurants in the Czech Republic according to the local
“Gurmet” restaurants guide, the Chef Dalibor Navratil composed a menu mainly focusing on modern, lighter versions of French classics. As a cold appetizer, we liked very much the “Millefeuille of Poached Greenland Shrimps”, prepared on virgin olive oil. Light like a cloud. Interesting crispy/smooth ideally balanced texture. A must, at only CZK 290. More classic, our “French duck livers foie gras” was soft, divinely flavoured like duck liver –that we always preferred to goose liver- should be. It came in a colourful, audaciously shaped plate, with some raspberries. At CZK 580, it is served with a glass of Sauternes. The traditional way; though it would develop even more aroma if married with a full bodied French red wine. You’ll find plenty of them in the excellent wine list: featuring interesting brands from the Old and New World, for all budgets. As a main course, try the “Grilled fillet of John Dory”, with fresh green asparagus and artichokes (840 CZK). One of the best fish we had in Prague. Tickling the palate! Poultry is also one of the chef’s specialities. His “Pigeon legs”, stuffed with homemade bacon with bun dumplings, could have been prepared by a three star Michelin chef. We ignore the origin of the pigeon; but its flesh was like crunchy, aromatic, and actually mouth watering. The dumplings are a reference to the Czech cuisine: some will find them too heavy, despite of their miniaturized volume. We personally found them delicious, and refined compared to the authentic, tasteless and stuffing, Czech “knedlidky”. This pigeon is simply a present, at only CZK 495. Don’t miss it! It comes with its glass of red wine; though we had it with the same local white wine we selected for the fish. A “Rulandské Sedé” 2003, Kabinet (CZK 460). Quite short in the mouth, though refreshing and pleasant with both fish and poultry. Desserts won’t disappoint the gourmet. The so French “Dried plums marinated in Armagnac vinaigrette”, with caramel sauce, lemon sorbet and fresh pistachios, would impress the best confectioners. This is a rich course. Quite “bourgeois”. The lighter “Strawberry cappuccino”, with sauer cream and vanilla mousse, is also wonderful. Each of those desserts costs only CZK 180. Discreet, quick and efficient service by ladies staff. The restaurant Villa Voyta is well known in Prague for its grill parties and wedding banquets. An institution! VILLA
VOYTA : K Novému dvoru 124/54, Praha 4 - Lhotka
RICKSHAW
(****): Located
in the CORINTHIA TOWERS hotel, this
is one of The RICKSHAW is at very first sight a smart, trendy and intimate place. Many “dressed-to-kill” Asian people were sitting at the tables the evening of our visit: which gave the dinning room an even more exotic touch, showing also that the food might be somehow authentic. We decided to try some Thai courses: being quite familiar with the specialities from this country, which we rank among the top five in the world in term of gastronomy. Like in Bangkok, the menu shows the amount of spices added to some courses (like Phad Khi Mao or Lab Mu): from two little chillies printed after the name and geographic location of the course, one might be familiar to hot food before swallowing a first spoonful. When the waitress, wearing an elegant grey uniform, brought our meal over the table (all courses altogether, like in Asia), we could see just from its appearance and unmatchable great fragrance that the cuisine was faithfully respecting the rules. We started with our soup. The menu showed a Tom Yam Po Taek (spicy, sour soup with seafood, galanta roots, lemon grass, kafir lime leaves and coriander); we asked the cooks (one Thai and one Lao) if it was possible to create for us an alternative, called Tom Kha Kai (same ingredients; but water is replaced by fresh coconut milk, and shrimps by chicken). This was done with a smile, and very proficiently: we had exactly the same Tom Kha Kai like in Bangkok! The portion was generous (just for all meals), for CZK 190. Our Kaeng Phed Ped Yang (grilled aromatic duck with red curry, bamboo shoots, baby tomatoes, sweet basil, kafir lime leaves and coconut milk) was not less palatable and faithful to the southern Siamese recipes. At CZK 460, such a great speciality is a cheap alternative to the gourmet fares our French chefs are selling at platinum price. We hardly could find room for one more course. Anyway, we did our best to check how was the Meehoon Singapore: stir fried glass noodles with chicken, pork, shrimps, black mushrooms, vegetables and curry powder. All ingredients are freshly imported from South East Asia, via Vienna. At CZK 370, this was another rare delicacy! We had similar one in Singapore, and could see that the authenticity of the recipes obviously applies to all countries represented in this gourmet embassy. Fine selection of wines; but rather beer, fitting far better the taste of chilly. Note that the RICKSHAW opens for dinner only (6pm - 11pm). Advanced booking and casual elegant dress recommended. Certainly the best Asian restaurant in the Czech Republic. RICKSHAW
(at CORINTHIA TOWERS): Kongresova 1,
140 69 Prague 4
HABANOS CIGAR CLUBS IN PRAGUE: LA
CASA DEL HABANO (*****): The most exclusive cigar club in
the Czech Republic: luxuriously appointed with large leather sofas, Thai
silk cushions, persian rugs, LA
CASA DEL HABANO: Dlouhá 35/730, Praha 1
SEE
OUR COMPLETE REVIEW OF THE BEST HOTELS IN PRAGUE
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settled
in 1995 on a daydreamed location. On the River Vltava (Moldau) embankments,
with a breathtaking view on the legendary Charles Bridge: which, in term
of marketing, should be more than enough to capture tourists passing by.
The young Norwegian restaurateur caring of this landmark preferred the
challenge, consisting in raising the place among the top five leading gourmet
spots in town.
pleasantly
surprised to see that, with such a great location within firing range from
Charles Bridge, at the point where the Certovka stream empties into the
Vltava river, the Kampa Park youngest sister (same owner) goes up very
successfully with democratic prices. What could be the ideal tourist trap
proves to be one of the most honest restaurants in town.
Lebens,
owner of 
decorated
with precious items, was full. Since it has been ranking a top 5 restaurants
in Prague by 
smart
though cool restaurant is a favourite for tourists and expats.
from
the metro-station-like entrance, located opposite the world famous Astronomical
Clock, on Prague main square (Old Town Square / Staromestké Namesti).
Astronomical
Clock and the Old City Square. You will see, in the unique setting of this
13th century Gothic building, a rare collection of antique wall clocks.
Old
Town Square district, could be a perfect tourist trap if it were not owned
and managed since 1995 by a trio of gourmets. Helena, Moreno and Romeo,
apostles of the good taste, are the ambassadors of the Italian –and more
precisely Tuscan- cuisine in the Czech Republic.
famous,
original « Bodeguita del Medio » in Havana, Cuba, brings to
Prague nights a hard to match exoticism, and a astonishingly good cuisine
we didn't ever expect in what is first of all a cocktail bar.
interesting
alternative to 
stalactite
cave depicting Pluto’s Underworld kingdom, this is also one of the most
stylish places we have visited downtown.
banqueting
in this lounge style, modern dinning room with an open grill. Without ostentation
nor adornment, the place is smart: very convenient for a dinner among friends,
with a mouth watering 
leading
from the Old Town to the Prague Castle, a stone's throw from the
Municipal House, this old style wine cellar is ideally fitted for enjoying
specialties of the Bohemian cuisine.
town.
We should spend much time and use much volume to describe the luxurious
decoration of this architecturally protected room, with its Art-Nouveau
chimney and colourful cupola; but let's go straight to the number one attraction:
the food ! Thought taught by experience about the danger of the excessively
rich specialities eastern European restaurants like to punish the greedy
guests with, we found here nothing but lightness and sophistication.
steak
house is a newcomer on the Prague gourmet scene. It is strategically located
at the top end of the picturesque, historic Nerudova Street: in a large,
quite labyrinthic 17th century cellar. We immediately felt at ease in this
convivial environment composed by large mirrors on brickwork-vaulted walls.
We sat on deep cowhide banquettes, disposed in front of a large table.
Space is not scarce at Cowboys, and allows intimacy even when groups of
merry partygoers drop in.
Turn
left into a silent lane. Come down the centuries old stairs. Loudly knock
at a mysterious, always closed heavy door and, suddenly, go back in time.
More precisely in the year 1493. The dark, warm, smoky, noisy atmosphere
of this tavern soaks you up: in less than a few minutes you are not only
integrated, but enchanted to be there: sitting on a solid bank, at a large
oak farmhouse table close to the odorous fireplace, with dozens of patrons
enjoying a banquet animated by gipsy dancers, fencers, fire-eaters, jugglers,
and sometimes even beggars… or executioners!
might
look somehow original. But originality suits so well Constantin Plesky:
the friendly owner and chef of this wonderful family restaurant which,
under its apparent simplicity, is one of the top 10 best tables in town.
Born French, in Tunisia, from a Czech - Italian - French family, he likes
to entertain his guests (should they be Anthony Hopkins or the humble tourist
dropping to his cellar by chance)... with an authentic "pied noir"
(North African) accent! This gentleman is a gourmet made in the same stern
stuff like Escoffier: unspoiled by the now universally "out" so called
"Nouvelle Cuisine". He inherited his gastronomic proficiency from
ancestors dedicated to "haute cuisine" since... 1526! The origin
and freshness of the ingredients, imported from all over the world by first-class
foreign suppliers, come first. Then comes the way how to cook them: a most
simple way, with a stricly limited use of spices and herbs which might
destroy the original flavour of the dishes. Livorno cuisine predominates
on the 
restaurant
at 
the
most stimulating restaurant we visited in Prague. The menu shows selected
specialities from the Far East: with an accent over South East Asia. The
culinary traditions of India, China, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and
Thailand catch the visitor into an exciting gourmet trip: a spicy and low
calorie experience in a city mostly dedicated to dumplings and pork.
where
clients can seat, smoke and drink rare liquors in a soft, classy Tropical
atmosphere. 