UPDATED 14/07/2010 HUNGARIAN CUISINE:Paprika characterizes the Hungarian cooking: used generously in typical dishes like Gulash ( beef, potatoes and gnocchi soup), Chicken Paprika, and Stuffed Cabbage (a transylvanian delicacy). Salami is palatable, and should come from Szeged ("Pick" and "Hertz" seem to be the best labels). Goose liver is a must; though not as sophisticately cooked as in France, it is still very good value for money, indeed. Pancakes (Palacsinta) are a favourite dessert; together with the Somloi Galuska (biscuit with chocolate, nuts and whipped cream): escape from the latter if you don't wish to gain weight !Among
best local alcohol, you can experience "Unicum"(bitter aperitif), "Palinka"
(a very strong brandy), and the very succulent "Tokaj" wines. Our favourite
remains the "Tokaj Szamorodni Edes": sweet, it goes fairly well with desserts.
Local sparkling wine ("Peszgö") can be experienced, providing it is "Dry"
or "Extra-Dry": "Törley" is one of the preferred labels.
OUR
FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS (Castle, Buda,
& Pest (Downtown) areas):
RIVALDA
(*****L): The
entertainingly elegant Rivalda bloomed in May 2000, in the arid Budapest
castle area, where finding a decent restaurant is quite a challenge. Rivalda
is located on the ground floor of an 18th century monastery which used
to house the Catholic If you are lucky enough to visit Rivalda in summertime, you have the privilege of eating dinner in the eighteenth century courtyard café, an idyllic place with its original cobblestones and small candlelit tables which are set far enough apart to preserve an intimate atmosphere amidst the Babel of voices which resounds with every language known to man. Expats from all origins, including many diplomats, business executives and government officials, make this little world go round; some tourists also, who are starting to discover the place by word of mouth. Chef (and co-owner) György Gunst worked for Gundel and the Hotel InterContinental, with some excursions to Switzerland, India and South Africa. His cuisine is modern European. With a fashionable Mediterranean slant and classic French undertones, this is coupled with other world influences, but is always adapted to seasonal ingredients indigenous to Hungary. The menu changes three to four times a year. We have experienced the spring and summer dishes: light and cool, they featured an abundant supply of fresh fruits and vegetables, grilled meat and fish, vegetarian specialties, and an emphasized selection of well chilled white wines. For starters we had a "Ruccola and Frisée Salad, with sautéed Foie Gras, Grapes and Toasted Hazelnuts, and a Sherry Vinaigrette" (HUF 1,850 / EUR 7.5). The Hungarian Puzta farmers produce one of the best goose livers in the world; but chefs quite often -not to say "always;- tend to overcook it with such an insistence that it quickly turns into a bitter bilious mixture. Gunst learned in Gundel how to master this delicacy, which came to our plate mild, smooth and as naturally tasty at it should be to please a Lucculan palate. Soups are brilliant: we recently enjoyed the refreshing, lightly sour-sweet "Green Bean Soup" (HUF 1,100 / EUR 4.4), with fresh vegetables, which we would particularly recommend. Maybe should you also like to try Rivalda's wonderful salads and vegetables? We can warmly recommend the "Rivalda Salad with Roasted Zucchini and Eggplant, fresh Tomato, Parmesan and a Pesto Dressing" (HUF 1,500 / EUR 6.1); the "Grilled Fennel and Goat Cheese, served on a Bed of mixed Greens with Balsamic Vinaigrette" (HUF 1,650 / EUR 6.8); or a pure marvel, and our favourite: the "Sautéed Wild Mushrooms, served in a Bouchée with Creamed Feta and a Roasted Red Bell Pepper Sauce" (HUF 2,200 / EUR 8.8), which are worth the stiff ascent up the Castle hill! Lamb and veal and lamb are among the most remarkable home specialties. We tasted two variations of those delicious meats. The epicurean "Paprika Veal Medallions, with dilled Cottage-Cheese Dumplings" (HUF 4,500 / EUR 18) boosts a great flavour, with a discreet note of fresh dill over the light, digestive Hungarian bio-cottage-cheese. It competes on the menu with the smooth and juicy "Rack of Lamb in a Herb Crust, with Wild Mushrooms Crępe Strips" (HUF 5,600 / EUR 22.40). Game is regularly part of the menu. The "Rack of Venison" (HUF 4,500 / EUR 18), on potato blini, with caramelized endive & green peppercorn sauce is a home specialty. It displays all the qualities of the legendary Central European game (tender and tasty), with succulent side dishes (the caramelized endive is simply mouth watering). Rivalda's wine list ideally complements the food. Out of the 45 selected Hungarian wines to choose from, we took a young, refreshing and interesting "Taschner Kékfrankos Rosé, Sopron 2002". The rosé from that lovely town located a few miles from the Austrian border, close to the Fertöd Lake, is actually rejuvenating. At HUF 3,500 (EUR 14.4), this was also one of the cheapest choices on a still very affordable wine list, where the excellent local Champagne ("Hungária Extra Dry") costs HUF 4,500 (EUR 18.5) only. As a red wine, we found the "Weninger Terra Nemo, Kekfrancos" perfect with the meat, sauces, and even with the Foie Gras. Ideal, for sure, with a winter menu. It is sold by the glass at HUF 1,750 / EUR 7. Don't miss the legendary Tokay wine: their "Oremus 3 Puttonyos Aszú 1999" (perfect with desert and goose liver) is also good value, at HUF 5,200 (EUR 21). It was impossible to leave that wonderful restaurant without enjoying their "Chocolate "Ganache", warm, freshly baked chocolate soufflé cake, served with vanilla ice-cream". At HUF 1,050 (EUR 4.3), this smooth cake filled with mild chocolate seduces the foreign ambassadors and local politicians into coming to Rivalda just to savour this delicacy: they act very patriotically indeed by not overburdening the budgets allowed by their respective administrations! Even more inventive, the "Orange-Almond Polenta Cake" (HUF 1,050 / EUR 4,2) is also a favourite. The texture and taste are both seducing,; while the Grand-Marnier mascarpone cream with comes beside is somehow like a title of nobility. Last but not least, note that Rivalda serves one of the best coffee in town: their powerful, aromatic Semiramis would be perfectly fine with a cigar. There is also live music nightly. Either jazz saxophone or piano; or sometimes jazz guitar, as during our visit. The "best of" Sinatra and Antonio Carlos Jobim made our dinner even more glamorous! There is a smart private banquet hall, and an excellent catering service available for business and party purposes. Opening Hours-daily from 11:30 a.m. till 23:30 A most lovable restaurant! RIVALDA:
Színház utca 5-9, 1014 Budapest
BUDA
(& LEFT BANK RESIDENTIAL AREA):
NANCSI
NENI (****): When
Hungarian seamen (it exists, indeed!) step ashore, what do they do? Some,
like Frigyes Schädler, open a restaurant. Back to his roots, the owner
of Nancsi Neni (which means "Grand'Ma Neni'), didn't dedicate his concept
to seafood, as one could The place had it all to be a tourist trap; it is not, indeed. Nancsi Neni is known by word of mouth, and a vast majority of the guests are local people and foreign residents. Even when visiting, like us, the place during the low season, you won't sit alone. When tourists come from Spring time until October, there is no hustle at all: this is when the green, pleasant terrace starts operating. You therefore don't feel like any stressing noise or excessive proximity. Just some waves of enthusiasm and enjoyment. We got into our hands what seems to be the most complete menu in Budapest. Our choice was therefore as appetizing as difficult to make. Entrées are well balanced: they go from the now inevitable "Mozzarella and Tomato", to the much more interesting "Grilled Duck Liver Slices" (HUF 1,030 / EURO 4), in Tokay Aszu wine-jelly, with raisins dipped in Aszu and fruitcake. Traditional, though quite uncommon: Hungarian restaurants don't use that much duck liver, but goose liver. Duck is much more in our French taste; more palatable, according to us. Those who would like to do in Hungary like the Hungarians do, would rather ask for a soup. We suggest the "Bean Soup with Smocked Pork Knuckle" (HUF 1,050 / EURO 4): that one Grand'Ma Nani liked to cook once a week for her gourmand family. Bean Soup is one of our cheapest sins: we must say that this one was close to perfection: if you put some cream inside, and if you dare adding some paprika (their is very authentic, and therefore quite hot!), perfection will turn to ecstasy. A light alternative? Try the "Sunday Chicken Broth" (HUF 1,050 / EURO 4): pleasantly flavoured soup, made from Guinea-Fowl, with Carots. Or the "Smoked Trout Fillet from Lilafüred" (HUF 1,350 / EURO 5), fresh from the smokeries of Mr. Safrany. Delicious, with capers and potatoes in mayonnaise. As we have explained, Nancsi Nani is not a seafood restaurant; which didn't mean that fish couldn't be enjoyed here. Salmon, sole, monkfish, shrimps and dory (more precisely John Dory) are part of the new menu. Residents sometimes just come for it, as the chef is expert in that still "exotic" food: don't forget that Hungary is a landlocked country, inhabited by one of the most "carnivore" people in the world. Landlocked; but with one of the largest lake in Central Europe, called Balaton. Our "Pike-Perch en Croute", came precisely from its clear waters. What they call "Croute" rather looked and tasted like a Tempura. We sacrificed half of it, just to feel like the real taste of the filet: what a great flesh! The "fogas" (local name for pike-perch) is one of the most refined fish on the whole planet. It could sometimes be better that monkfish, or even lobster. When it comes from Balaton, you are 90% sure to receive the most splendid quality in your plate. So, just don't miss it. And it is not expensive at all: HUF 3,170 / EURO 13, for a generous portion. Those coming with friends or family should straight order the whole "fogas" ("The One and Only Pike-Perch"): the fish is deep fried, so that it curls into a crescent shape. Crispy outside, smooth inside, this is simply worth the trip! Lot of meat, of course. From the bourgeois "Cordon Bleu" to the peasant "Boiled Beef in Hunter's Sauce" (HUF 1,520 / EURO 6), the choice is wide and wise. We had the later: our beef was tender, from top-quality oxen, served with a sweet carrots and kitchen garden's vegetables sauce, and fresh dumplings. A good choice; thought we even preferred the wonderful "Crispy Duck Leg" (HUF 2,370 / EURO 10). "Hard to beat!" said the menu: which is true! Those who have been lucky enough to enjoy once in their life a real confit of duck, made just like in the South West of France, will on the spot recognize the signature of a well trained chef. Whose skill is permanently favoured by the tips from his much travelling owner, very much aware of the French cuisine. Our noble palmiped had been sacrificed to Epicure. We would also warmly recommend the "Oven baked crispy trotter" (HUF 2,450), served with roasted potatoes, and home-made mixed pickles „csalamádé”. This is, with the "Fogas", one of the master dishes on the menu. In June 2009, date of our our last visit, the menu also featured an excellent "Oven Baked Breast of Guinea-Fowl" (HUF 1,970 / EUR 8), well marinated in spicy olive oil, before being baked in oven under thin bacon slices. Palatable! It was served with an audacious rose-petal sauce (souvenir of the Turkish occupation of the country?), baked apples and home-made potato balls. We loved it, as much as we loved the extremely popular "Veal Stew with Gnocchi" (HUF 1,960 / EURO 8): the Hungarian call it "Pörkölt", and it is as deep rooted as the "Gulash" in the local culinary traditions. Ours was melting in our mouth, cooked with a generous dose of Paprika. Wonderful like simple things can be. We spoke about Epicure, patron of our visit; but what about Bacchus? The stylish wine list was as appealing as the menu. Fitting on the season (we received the"Spring-Summer" list), it started with the white or red "House Wines" (HUF 260 / EURO 1, per 1dl glass), reaching up the still affordable extremity of HUF 8,990 / EURO 36 for full-bodied, complex, red "Mayer Kopar 2000, Villany". An average HUF 2,000 - 4,000 (EURO 9 - 18) goes for most of the wines. We advise you their very good "Gal Tibor Bikaver 2003, Eger": at HUF 5,190 / EURO 21 it will not disappoint you at all: it is elegant, with a rich bouquet. Of course, this is not ideal with the fish: your "fogas" will develop its savour with a glass of the wine the Schädler family grows in the region of Balaton. With -or after- your dessert (the "Somloi Galuska" -HUF 1,050 / EUR 4 is one of the best in town: if you don't know how tasty is this chocolate biscuit, try it without hesitation! And the "Floating Islands" -HUF 490 / EURO 2- are a pure delight, with their bursting fresh vanilia aroma), don't miss the local apricot brandy ("Oszibarack Palinka"). It fits ideally the "Apricot Pudding from Kecskemét" (HUF 895 / EURO 4), or an authentic Cuban cigar: the "humidor" is full with Cohibas, Romeo y Julieta, Partagas and other wonderful labels. A restaurant
for gourmets, managed by gourmets.
NANCSI
NENI: Ördögarok ut. 80, 1029 Budapest II
KISBUDA GYÖNGYE (***): The soul of Budapest stands in this small bistro, located away from the tourists’ paths, in the outlying historic Obuda. A short taxi drive from downtown, it is easily reached by the public transportation.
The extended multilingual menu features the best Hungarian recipes, with a touch of personalization. Closer to perfection than to sophistication: authenticity quite well depicts the rustic cuisine served by Alice, the owner, in person. Or by Laszlo, the good humoured manager and maitre d’hôtel since the opening in 1990. Our recommended starter is the solid “Cold Meat Hors d’Oeuvre from the Pantry”: a rich selection of natural, smocked, and pan fried guaranteed home made goose liver. It costs HUF 3280 with a glass of Tokaji Szamorodni Edes 2002 “Hattyus”. We also liked the “Pheasant Consommé, with home made Noodles in a Cup”, fresh carrots and quail eggs (HUF 1280). Don’t miss the “Crispy Catfish & Spicy Tagliatelles”. A pure delicacy, quite spicy actually, enriched with pure truffle oil, and a wonderful paprika sauce. Those considering the catfish a non-edible, poor river fish, will be positively amazed by the aristocratic flavour of this plebeian meal. Many clients ordered it the evening of our visit, and it seems to be a regular favourite. From the long wine list, we selected a “Somloi Juhfark 2004, Csardas Fodor Winehouse”. A dry, expressive, refreshing and pleasant white wine: a good value at HUF 6500 a bottle. Meat reaches its highest level with the “Hungarian Tournedos with Goose Liver” (HUF 3480). The smooth beef filet comes covered with a high quality home made “Lecso” (mashed paprika and onions) , far different from the liquid industrial sauce sold out in the Hungarian groceries. Thicker, also spicier, it doesn’t cover but develops the juicy taste of the prime quality of meat. It comes with thin sliced grilled potatoes. A gourmet would travel to Budapest for such a delicacy! Have it with a heady “Szekszardi Chateau Kajmad, Cuvée 2002, Lizt Pinceszét” (HUF 6200): a subtle redcurrant taste –some even find chocolate in its complex aroma- makes it one of the best red Szekszardi wines we ever had in Hungary. The good desserts, like the “Sweet Chocolate & Chestnut Dream” (HUF 1680), as tasty as caloric, will oblige you to exercise quite a lot to lose the extra kilogram(s) gained in this lovely Kisbuda Gyöngye. We finished with a local “grappa”: the “Törköly Palinka, Varda Drink” (HUF 2400), which must be enjoyed well chilled, develops this unique, noble musty taste imported from the Tokaji wine cellars. This is a must, even better than the traditional Apricot palinka. There is air-conditioning, and a charming summer garden. Open 12:00 – 24:00. Closed on Sunday. A place
where you will like to come again and again.
KISBUDA
GYÖNGYE: Kenyeres utca 34, Budapest
REMIZ
(***): In the
elegant Zugligeti, a green area at the foot of the Buda hills, displaying
lovely villas and green parks, five minutes by car from Moskva square,
this temple of gastronomy is under the same management as Kisbuda
Gyöngye. Awarded by the prestigious Zagat, We have been recommended, as a starter, the “Home-made Fine Nuggets on a Spoon” (HUF 2280): a selection of “delicatessen” elaborated with a special know-how, featuring Cheese Cream with Pesto and Ham, Aubergine with Garlic, Smoked Goose Liver, Doughnuts with Caviar, and Baked Goat Cheese. Perfect with a glass of “Royal Tokaji, Ats Cuvée 2005, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company” (HUF 1500 by the glass). Alternatively, try the lavish “Morel Mushrooms Stuffed with Truffle Cream, Pasta with Ewe Cheese and Dill”. At HUF 2680 we found it an amazingly good value, much inspired, and actually palatable. This is a royal dish served in a very generous portion. Royal also is the “Breaded Fillet of Pike-Perch” (HUF 2980): the legendary, and unfortunately more and more scarce, authentic Balaton “Fogas”, came to our table with some mild, fragrant forest mushrooms, and aromatic jasmine rice with vegetables. This is certainly the highlight of the very attractive menu. The texture and taste of the “Fogas” are unique, and it is fairly well cooked at Remiz. We warmly recommend it with a “Don Olivier, Chardonnay and Irsai Oliver 2006, Nyakas” (HUF 1150 by the glass): a juvenile, light and refreshing white wine matching fish very well. The deserts respect the receipts of the former coffee shop. The best sellers are the Dobos, the “Remiz” (a chocolate cream biscuit), and the famous "Somloi Galuska": at HUF 880, this sponge biscuit covered with a bitter chocolate cream, cannot be ignored. It is lighter than in many local restaurants, and can therefore be enjoyed without any restriction. A smart venue for smart gastronomes. REMIZ:
Budakeszi ut 5, Budapest 2
PEST
(DOWNTOWN TOURIST & BUSINESS AREA):
KARPATIA
(****): Founded in 1877, unaffected by the changes of regime, economy
and mentality, this is still one of the top five legendary restaurants
in Budapest. Located in the heart of the historic downtown, on the Pest
side of Elizabeth bridge, next to Vaci street and the International courses are available on the multilingual menu. But, in Rome do as the Romans do: rather order those peasant specialities, which make the Hungarian local gastronomy one of the most delicious in all Central Europe. Not to say: in the world. Sometimes reinvented a lighter way by the chef, the menu includes all our favourite "csarda" style meals. Let's start, for instance, with a hearty Hungarian style Fish Soup, with catfish cutlet (1500 / 2500 HUF). Hungary being the first producer of goose liver, you should certainly order it as a main meal: roasted and served with thyme-green apples and potato medallion, it is a pure marvel (6900 HUF). Their Grilled Goose Liver Slices Hungarian Style, with fresh "lecsó" (some kind of tasty Hungarian ratatouille) and potatoes chips (6900 HUF) is another good alternative. It should also be the perfect opportunity to open a fine bottle of Tokaji Mandolas Furmint "Oremus Winery" : this dry, full aromatic "white" (let's say: yellow) wine, extracts sweetness in aftertaste (5900 HUF). Hungarian still like sweet wine with the foie gras: just like French gourmets used to do some decades ago. Up to date dinners will maybe prefer a classical and more adequate Egri Bikavér 1997: quite similar to the Spanish "Sangre de Toro", this is a full-bodied red wine with high acidity (5200 HUF). Hungary is not that much a country for fish: anyway, their Perch -they call it "Fogas"- is well worth the trip. This delicacy is of course in the menu, under the appellation Fillet of Balaton Grilled Perch Pike, with dill-courgette and new potatoes (4500 HUF). Hungary abandoned by force Transylvania to Romania in 1921; which is a bitter souvenir! But it never forgot the specialities of this splendid and wild Carpathian region, which gave its name to the restaurant. We like the Transylvanian Sauerkraut, with chopped meat and sausage, decorated with fried bacon (3800 HUF): more familiar under its Magyar name (Töltött Kolosvari Kaposzta), this is the best contribution peasantry ever brought to the Hungarian gastronomy. The “Pörkölt” dégustation, a selection of Hungarian stews, including veal, pork and chicken, served with butter gnocchi (4600 HUF), is an excellent introduction to traditional Hungarian cuisine. During our last visit, in June 2010, we ordered the spicy Peppery Mangalica-Pork Roast, with hot paprika, potatoes and red onions (HUF 3900). One of our favourite, made out of tender Hungarian "Mangalica" (reputed for its savor and low-cholesterol ratio); nobody does it better, and nowhere but in Central Europe will you find such generous portions! Alternatively, we can recommend the “Hungarian Appetizer Platter" featuring salami, sausage, peasant ham with fresh vegetables and paprika-ewe-cheese cream (2800 HUF). Modest eaters and vegetarians will see with pleasure that the chef has not forgotten their culinary choice: of course there are lots of salads and pastas available. But we prefer to keep on the Hungarian way, and recommend the signature dish "Karpatia Salata", called here Salad Karpatia with tender duck breasts, served with grilled wild mushrooms and vinaigrette (2800 HUF). The Smoked trout from Szilvasvarad with black bread, aubergine caviar and field salad, is not bad, either (3300 HUF). Those light meals would go well with a Villanyi Rosé Cuvée 2007 "Gere & Weninger" (4900 HUF): delivering intensive aroma, this is a fine example of the fantastic rosés to be found in this part of Europe. You should order by all means the Somló Sponge Cake, with nuts, raisins and rum, sprinkled with chocolate cream (1600 HUF). It is extremely popular under the name "Somloi Galuska". This is, by reputation, the heaviest dessert you could have in Hungary. But at Karpatia is is prepared a different way: the sponge cake has been converted into a light mousse, rich in vanilia; and the thick, caloric chocolate sauce, has been replaced by a slice of brownie made out of a strong cocoa. Is it a miracle?: it tastes like the original; not to say better! Alternatively, the Apple Strudel (“Rétes”), with cinnamon mousse is amazing (HUF 1400). This delicacy goes well with a glass of chilled Törley Sec (5600 HUF/bottle), listening to the "primas" playing "Ciocirlia" for your very special attention! For about 14,000 HUF this makes a splendid evening only Budapest -when you go to the right restaurant! - is able to offer to distinctive dinners. Some even more affordable package and group menus are also available: for instance, the lovely, informal Brasserie offers a great value for money lunch menu (updated each week with fresh ingredients) at only HUF 1500 for 2 courses and UF 1800 for 3). Note that, for special occasions (meetings, wedding parties, or simply very intimate supper) lovely private rooms can be put at guests disposal. During summer time, the terrace offers outdoor seating for up to 150 guests. Don't miss it!
KARPATIA:
Ferenciek tere 7-8., H-1053 Budapest
SPOON
CAFÉ & LOUNGE (****): The
most fancy restaurant in Budapest is situated on a boat docked along the
Danube: strategically opposite some of the leading hotels (Inter-Continental,
Marriott, Sofitel, Gresham Palace), which brings to the place 80% of its
smart clientele. Árpád László, the most famous restaurateur in town, opened in 2003 that astonishingly cheap, though very chic restaurant. Making it "THE place" where the action goes indeed. An army of waiters, managed by a young, super active "maître d' " directing the operations through his talkie walkie, assures a quick, almost immediate service with a thousand smiles. A miracle, when you know it deals with 200 indoor plus 300 outdoor seats! Once we reached our table on the upper desk (full, like the rest of the boat), we imagined at first sight that such a volume cannot deserve the best quality of food. Our pessimism vanished once we were served our starter: a selection of Sushi and Sashimi, homemade by a Japanese chef operating in public with the freshest ingredients. Have them by a mixed plate: the "Sashimi Moriawase" contains 7 pieces, and costs HUF 4,100 only. The Salmon, Tuna and above all the Octopus sashimi are simply wonderful. Excellent with a glass of Champagne or a local Törley. We then followed the wise advice of Chef Zsolt Beke, and ordered an "Octopus from Barcelona" (HUF 2,390), with basil olives: well worth the best "tapas" we ever had in Spain. It was cooked with a rich dose of garlic, which didn't affect at all our digestion (chefs have tricks to make that delicious garlic inoffensive). Alternatively, the "Roasted Goose Liver" (HUF 2,690) will satisfy the meat lovers. This is a declination of the famous Hungarian "Foie Gras"; lighter, with a caramel peach, it is an interesting speciality. Keep your glass of Champagne to enjoy both of those delicacies; or order a white Chardonnay from Villanyi. With the liver, do like the Hungarian do: have a glass of Tokaj. With the melting, palatable "Argentinean Angus Tenderloin Steak", with garlic, blue cheese and a strong pepper sauce (HUF 4,890) that we had as a main dish, we took a red "Kekoporto". All those Hungarian wines are well worth the tasting, and reveal very good value for money indeed! Refresh your mouth with a "Gazpacho" (HUF 850). Rich, thick, made out of the best quality of tomato, it came served like in the Andalusian "tiendas": with peppered stick of celery. The dessert daily offer was a "Vanilla Pannacotta, with Lemon Grass and Strawberry" (HUF 890), worth the best confectioners. Great with a Danesi "ristretto" coffee. Lots of "cigar aficionados" aboard! We smoked our Cohiba Esplendido with a glass of Cognac "Godet XO" (HUF 4,000). Peacefully: enjoying a million dollar view on the illuminated Castle district (note that you can enjoy this breathtaking panorama from the gents washrooms, with the unique "pissoirs with a view" in Central Europe, and maybe in the world!). There
are many things that money can't buy; but with EUR 50 in your pocket, the
Paradise is affordable at Spoon!
SPOON
CAFÉ & LOUNGE: Vigadó tér 3, Budapest 1052 (opposite Hotel Inter-Continental)
ROBINSON
(****) : An attraction
on its own! This lavish restaurant stands on a fairy tale's secluded island,
on the still waters of a small lake, shadowed by the centenarian trees
of the Varosliget Park (the equivalent in Budapest of Central Park in New
York). There are not many A million miles away from the busy city centre, we sat at the water edge terrace. The lovely pavilion-restaurant, with its floor-to-ceiling glass windows, was also appealing; but on winter time everybody wish to stay outside, enjoying the cool air of the powerful brumizer providing a maximum comfort when the temperature goes too high. The view on the Fine Arts Museum, Heroes' Square and Vajdahunyad Castle is imposing. The menu is summed up in four pages. It features only the freshest ingredients. "World Cuisine" is the chef's main inspiration; with a strong Mediterranean influence, like at Spoon Cafe & Lounge (Zsolt Beke is in charge of the kitchens of both restaurants, owned by Arpad Laszlo). Seafood is well represented. There is also a wide selection of vegetarian fares. Great starters. We knew the reputation of their "Grilled Goose Liver" (HUF 2,790), prepared with balsamic lemon-grass. But that time we preferred to enjoy the "Garlic King Prawn" (HUF 2,490): so fresh, so crunchy, with melting butter, smelling good the Mediterranean sea, they were served with a refreshing chilli flavoured rucola. Salads are a speciality here: like the "Rucola with Sherries, stick of Celery and Pistachio" (HUF 1,900) that we found nowhere but at Robinson. As a main course, we had a "Fogas" the Hungarian word for that very unique, amazingly tasty pike-perch from the Lake Balaton. The chef knows how to prepare it: respecting an ideal cooking time keeping intact the wonderful texture of this delicate fish, salted with a thin slice of bacon, and prepared with a light paprika sauce. Just don't miss it! At HUF 3,790 we found it one of the best value for money items on an already reasonably priced menu. The "Fogas" competed in our choice with the "Giant Prawn" (HUF 5,890) which came on a garlic-spinach bed, with green curry. Almost the way it is cooked in the best restaurants in Thailand and Singapore. If such is the "World Cuisine", let's go! We love it! The desserts came on a small, separate menu. Our two favourites are the "Creme Brulée", with a fresh fig (HUF 790) and the unforgettable "Floating Islands". Like our Mum used to do it; maybe lighter, more digestive, with caramel and sweetly perfumed with almond. At HUF 850 we found it amazingly affordable. We had all our lunch with a couple of glasses of very refreshing Törley. The wine list is one of the richest in Budapest, at very balanced prices. Like Spoon Cafe & Lounge, Robinson was awarded "Best Mediterranean Restaurant" and "Best Outdoor Place". Its owner is "Best restaurateur of the Year 2004". The restaurant is permanently full: make sure to book in advance, by e-mail or by fax, before landing to Budapest. A must! ROBINSON:
1146 Budapest, Városligeti tó (City Park)
TRATTORIA TOSCANA (****): The best Italian restaurant in Pest specialises both in Tuscan cuisine and unrivalled pizza for the happy few.
If you are lucky enough to find a free table in the rustic, warm, permanently full dinning room, you will be treated like a Medici! Despite of its peasant roots, the Tuscan cuisine displays an indeed aristocratic touch. Traditional, refined and humanist when fashion goes to the food-processing industry, it pleases the gourmet at first sight. The staff is anticipating. As soon as we sat, we were served a generous portion of freshly baked Focaccia; the temptation to empty our basket was revoked by the prompt delivery of a "Porcini Mushroom Cream Soup" (HUF 990), all dedicated to suaveness. Antispasti are the best in Budapest. Have the number one on the list: the "Steamed Octopus with Raw Zucchini e Citronette". At HUF 3090 this is not the cheapest: but indeed impressively tasty and fresh. We found it worth the visit! The "Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio with Rucola and Shaved Parmigiano" might sound like a classic; at Toscana it comes like a pure delicacy. Again, thanks to the amazing freshness of the ingredients. At HUF 2250 we found it fairly good value for money. The pastas can be lavish. Particularly if choosing the "Tortellini filled with Ricotta Radicchio and Mascarpone", served with a sea bass sauce and lemon zest (HUF 2090). Or the aristocratic "Linguine with a Lobster and its sauce", for two people, priced by the lobster's weight: expensive, of course. Our "Italian Black Risotto Fisherman Style", with mixed seafood, was certainly more basic; but we loved it, indeed. At HUF 2590, don't miss it. Good meat. The "Veal Cutlet with Porcini Mushrooms" (HUF 2950) is delicious. Like the "Grilled Rack of Lamb" (HUF 3390). We found the pizza splendid. Thin, crispy, slightly browned on the edges, generously filled with first class ingredients. The way we like it, indeed! It comes of course from an authentic pizza oven: similar to those used by the best "pizzaioli" from Naples. We cannot recommend one precisely: each gets its particular quality and unique taste. Ours was a "Capricciosa" (HUF 2150), filled with tomato, mozzarella, mushroom, Prosciutto ham, eggs, artichoke and olive oil. We finished with a remarkable -though classic- "Creme Brulée" (HUF 1050), which goes very well with their strong expresso coffee All Amaretto (HUF 920). Of course, there is a rich selection of Grappa from the best origin. Last but not least, note that the Trattoria Toscana is a great restaurant for wine lovers. The owner operates the wine shop next door, "L'Enoteca", with a solid reputation in town. The 12 pages wine list offers some interesting, valued for money brands. We had our dinner with a 2001 Chianti "Rufina, Basciano, Renzo Masi" (HUF 5200). Classic. Perfect with meat, pasta and pizza. But you can also order local wines, which are sometimes a pure marvel: they have all kind of Tokaji, and interesting heady, strong red wines like the "Egri Bikaver". More precisely the "Egri Bikaver Barrique, Simon Jozsef" which presents the advantage to be sold out by the glass (HUF 660 per 1dl). Make sure
to book in advance. The place is well known, and don't need to be advertised;
it is always packed with foreign residents who made Toscana their canteen.
TRATTORIA
TOSCANA: Belgrád rkp. 13.
CENTRAL
KAVEHAZ (***): A
"Grand Café" reborn! With a stunning Art Nouveau interior, and smart,
anticipating waiters wearing a traditional apron, this is the Hungarian
version of Lipp or La Rotonde in Paris. With a difference: bills are a
portion of what you would be It seemed that many of the guests comfortably sitting on the green wall seats were local and foreign residents. Astonishingly, we saw almost no tourist the day of our visit; the place might be still kept secret to them? Time and reputation will certainly help them to discover the interesting gastronomy displayed on the quite thin though attractive menu. The "Goulash Soup" (HUF 690 / EUR 2.7) is recommended. Don't miss the "Salmon Pike Perch": ours was superb! A delicacy, served with green lemon butter and grilled vegetable. At HUF 2,990 / EUR 11,5, it comes like a gift. Plenty of desserts: great cakes -this is a coffee-shop- and the redoubtable multi-caloric "Somloi Galuska" (HUF 690 / EUR 2.7): you must avoid if you are on a diet... but we love it, and found it wonderful indeed at the Central Kavehaz: with a soft custard actually tasting fresh vanilla, and a thick, slightly bitter chocolate sauce. The menu suggests one or two wines fitting each speciality, at very reasonable price. Like many dinners, we rather ordered a mug of that fresh, almost chilled draft beer which participates to the fame of this amazing café which is also well known for its immaculate restrooms: they are so huge that they could host a dozen of local families! A great
value for money, friendly, and off the beaten tracks place.
CENTRAL
KAVEHAZ: Karolyi Mihaly utca 9, 1053 BUDAPEST
WHY
NOT? (classical restaurants, for great atmosphere... and average food)
MARGITKERT
(***): This friendly "Csarda" (tavern)
is one of the oldest in town. It was very popular in time of communism,
when socialist statesmen (François Mitterrand, Olof Palme, Georges Marchais...)
used to visit regularly their comrades. Now this nostalgic period is GELLERT (DUNA RESTAURANT) (****): The restaurant is maybe not as smart as the neighbouring baths, but it displays a very interesting local atmosphere; just like the rest of this hotel, which remains one of our favourite in Budapest. Anyway, people rather come here for the high quality of its table. This is quite a classical place, where delicious Hungarian cuisine is available at moderate price. The main speciality, introduced some decades ago by award-winning master cook Ferenc Novak, is the Fillet of Veal Gellért Style, served with an unforgettable ragout (ham, cheese, cream, mushrooms and peas) covering the meat, topped with cheese and roasted. The Hungarian Sirloin Gulash is great. The Stuffed Cabbage Debrecen Style and the Braised Leg of Mutton "Bonne Femme" are absolute must. Simply don't deal with too sophisticated "nouvelle cuisine" courses; only their name sounds good. In Hungary do as the Hungarian do: prefer the palatable local gastronomy which goes here to a top. On summer time, a dinner at the terrace with a dramatic view on the Danube and the Gellert Hill, entertained by live Gipsy music, is simply worth the trip. Two people will be charged approximately HUF 17,000/USD 60, with one bottle of good local wine. GELLERT:
1111 Budapest XI., Gellért tér 1.
SZECHENYI (at GRAND HOTEL MARGITSZIGET) (****): We like this terrace, its romantic atmosphere with excellent gipsy music, and its location in the park of the Marguerite Island. Food is classical, without particular surprise, though tasty and good value. Just experience the "Somloi Galushka": this chocolate dessert is the very best in town. SZECHENYI
(at GRAND HOTEL MARGITZSIGET): Margitsziget,
H-1138 Budapest
GUNDEL (****): This very elegant restaurant is more worth for its decoration than for its cuisine. Very "touristy", indeed. This is the Budapest alter ego of "Maxim's" in Paris. Though sometimes some good surprise could happen: for instance when the maître d' hôtel remembers your face and treats you like one of the top VIPs (Georges Bush Sr, Sylvester Stallone, Queen Elisabeth II...) who still consider Gundel as the "best restaurant in Central Europe" (it is not anymore, since the 2nd World War...). We like it for special occasions. Quite expensive according to the Hungarian standards: don't expect enjoying a great dinner under HUF 20,000. Much more if you drink vintage wines... Formal dress. GUNDEL:
Allatkerti Körut 2, Budapest XIV
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order
of the Carmelite Monks. The theatrical theme of the dinning room creates
a romantic and deliciously chic atmosphere which we liked straight away.
This is the ideal place to bring your girl friend; or wife. The light-coloured
walls are decorated with pre-war theatre posters and sketches of famous
actors: "rivalda" meaning "to be in the spotlight". The Hungaro-Canadian
co-owner was the instigator of this unique atmosphere, and clearly subscribes
to the philosophy that true old-fashioned hospitality is nothing
but perpetual theatre!
logically
imagine; nostalgic of the rich, mouth watering though quite simple dishes
his grand mother Neni cooked when he was a child, he developed a concept
where everybody would feel at home. Much affordable Hungarian delicacies
are served by an anticipating staff, in a dining room decorated with traditional
items. You feel like miles away from Budapest: in a "vendeglö" (traditional
peasant inn), in the heart of the Alföld, or on the Balaton Lake shores.
In reality, the restaurant stands in the Buda hills, and can be reached
by a 10 minutes tram ride from the city center. Even better: it is located
at the Hüvösvölgy terminus of the "Children's Railway": one of the most
picturesque and exciting attraction in town.
All
nations and all social classes sit along side one another in the small
dining room, decorated with lovely 1920’s Hungarian antique furniture,
animated by a gifted and talkative pianist who seems to be familiar to
most of the clients… Dining at Kisbuda Gyöngye is not an individualistic
experience; we felt like we were part of a family banquet. With friendly
guests, a warm anticipating staff, and one of the most generous and delicious
tables in Budapest, we enjoyed a leisurely evening.
member
of Prosper Montagné and La Chaîne des Rotisseurs gourmet clubs, this is
a smart yet simple restaurant, with a summer garden, housed in a former
coffee shop frequented by the pre-WW II society. The coffee shop is not
here anymore; but the cakes sold out at Remiz are among the most remarkable
in Budapest.
Franciscan
Church, this could be a perfect tourist trap; on the contrary, the Karpatia
name has not been spoiled at all since Budapest became a major travel destination.
Still serving the same gourmet specialities we had there many years ago,
with the same lively and somehow heart breaking romantic live Gypsy music
(with a "primas", cymbalum, and all which makes a band authentic),
the quality matches the decoration: the rich wall paintings covering the
gothic arcades refer to the XVIIth century, when Hungary was defending
against the expansion of the Ottoman Empire. Realized in the 1920's, they
have been classified "National Heritage" together with the furniture.
The
rest is composed by the local society who likes to come here without the
formal black tie, still imperative in lots of the restaurants of a similar
category.
rivers
to cross, but a short wooden bridge, to gain access to an Eden for the
gourmet: it has been used since almost two decades by the local jet set,
ambassadors and international celebrities like Arnold Schwarzenegger, Warren
Beatie, David Copperfied or Lionel Richie. Just to mention a few of them.
Of course, this is one of the Top 5 restaurants in the Hungarian capital
city for gourmet tourists who, like us, prefer this relaxed, romantic place,
to the opposite Gundel (more stiff, conventional and expensive, with a
cuisine which doesn't match Robinson).
Old
Tuscan specialities are served in the same atmosphere and style like in
Florence. The receipts are certified by the Italian chef Giuseppe Mosti,
who arrived recently in Budapest. Graduated from the Instituto G. Minuto,
in Tuscany (regarded as one of the best cooking schools in Italy), he has
exported his skill worldwide: from the Caribbean to the United Arab Emirates,
Giuseppe acts like the apostle of the Tuscan tradition. Respect of the
original receipts and supreme quality of the freshest ingredients are his
guidelines.
expected
to pay in such a place in Western Europe.
over,
the chef moved somewhere else, but the Margitkert remains one of our top
favourite gipsy tavern in Budapest. Just try the very succulent (and cheap)
Stuffed Cabbage: nobody does it better in the world ! Ask to Tony Curtis
- a regular guest -his opinion... inexpensive and relax.
