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Paprika characterizes the Hungarian cooking: used generously in typical dishes like Gulash ( beef, potatoes and gnocchi soup), Chicken Paprika, and Stuffed Cabbage (a transylvanian delicacy). Salami is palatable, and should come from Szeged ("Pick" and "Hertz" seem to be the best labels). Goose liver is a must; though not as sophisticately cooked as in France, it is still very good value for money, indeed. Pancakes (Palacsinta) are a favourite dessert; together with the Somloi Galuska (biscuit with chocolate, nuts and whipped cream): escape from the latter if you don't wish to gain weight !   Among best local alcohol, you can experience "Unicum"(bitter aperitif), "Palinka" (a very strong brandy), and the very succulent "Tokaj" wines. Our favourite remains the "Tokaj Szamorodni Edes": sweet, it goes fairly well with desserts. Local sparkling wine ("Peszgö") can be experienced, providing it is "Dry" or "Extra-Dry": "Törley" is one of the preferred labels.  


Updated 12/09/2018

OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS (Castle, Buda, & Pest (Downtown) areas):  


ICON (*****L): Located in the fantastic Hilton Budapest, in the fairy-tale atmosphere of the Buda Castle District, next to Matthias Church and the Fishermen’s Bastion, this grand restaurant (it has a capacity of 220 persons) astonished us with its unexpected intimacy: the icon_hilton_best_restaurants_budapest_hungaryseparation between each table is large enough to comply with the secrecy of a business discussion... or a romance, sitting beside one of the 16 huge windows with the best city view ever of the Fisherman's Bastion, the Parliament and the Buda Castle District.

Our second surprise was the value for money of a place which, a decade ago (it was then called “Dominican”), was one of the top 5 most expensive restaurants in Hungary. Totally redesigned into a trendy, pleasantly luxurious though informal style, it seems that Icon now targets a younger, more casual category of gourmets. The quality flies high, but with an average EUR 40 – 50 check  (this was the price of our dinner, more or less), the new menu price remains ground rooted. We had a great selection of Hungarian wines at an average of EUR 8 by the glass; which is amazingly cheap in a five star deluxe hotel, frequented by politicians (the Japanese Imperial Prince was in the hotel the week of our visit), famous opera singers and movie stars... But we are in the magic Hungary, where all miracles can still happen.

The cuisine is classic and classy; inventive enough to create the WOW factor which started with the “Cheese Brulée with Portobello-Vinaigrette Salad, Pigeon Ballotin  & Papaya Chutney”, paired with a glass of “Icon Egri Welshriesling 2008,  Juhasz Winery” produced  specially for Icon. A lighter version of the “Hortobagy Palacsinta”, certainly one of the best Hungarian specialities, our “Pancake Stuffed with Chicken Breast, in Paprika Cream Sauce and Warm Garden Salad” is a yummy best seller. Have it with one of our favourite local wines: “Szeksardi Pinot Noir 2007, Vida Winery”. We have been served “Pazmandi Cuvée Kemendy Selection 2005”, from the Törley winery (well known for its reputed sparkling wines) with our “Venison Mignon, with Chili Chocolate Sauce, Asian Duck, Sweet Potato Purée, Fillet Mignon of Veal and Smoked-Roasted Tomato Cream”: a nice looking, mouth watering assortment of the best meat specialities available in this restaurant, which was the first one in all Hungary to become a member of the “Chaîne des Rôtisseurs” in the late 70's. Roasting delicate meat, poultry and game remains a home-speciality. Desserts are actually inventive. Icon has got an expert pastry team: cakes are displayed in the hotel everywhere, everyhtime: breakfast-buffet, executive lounge, tea-room, catering... We would like to recommend the “Blueberry Ricotta Mille-Feuille with Walnut Cream Cake, Mint -Strawberry Salsa & Roasted Sorbet”. Or the “Delice from Somloi”
(the famous “Somloi Galuska”): a rich sponge cake raisins soaked in rum, with chocolate, ground walnuts and whipped cream. Unless you are on a diet, just go for it, with one glass of fruity, as sweet as honey “Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2006, Andrassy Winery”.

Icon offers an attractive three courses Saturday Lunch (at HUF 6900 / EUR 26 per person) and, for the same savvy price, a Sunday Brunch much attended by families for its sumptuous buffet with unlimited consumption of sparkling wine, wine, beer, soft drinks and coffee!

 A five out of five atmosphere, food and service in a superb, splendidly managed hotel.

ICON (Hilton Budapest Hotel): 1014 Budapest, Hess András tér 1-3.
PHONE: +36 1 889 66 00 ,   +36 1 889 6757       FACSIMILE: +36 1 889 66 44
E-MAIL: info.budapest@hilton.com

RISO (****):  Belonging to the Hotel Castle Garden, strategically located opposite the Becsi Kapu (the main entrance of the Castle district), this fine though informal restaurant opens to the largest terrace-garden in Central Buda: much frequented by tourists and bonfini_kert_hotel_castle_garden_budapestreturning locals, from Springtime till Autumn.

A Mediterranean restaurant, it imports all basic ingredients from Italy; home-making  famous Italian pastas –gnocchi, agnolotti, ravioli, canneloni and  papardelle- and baking  traditional Italian rolls and breads. Meat, fish and seafood are grilled over the charcoal.  This is also a dreamed place to enjoy a light and tasty Hungarian cuisine by Executive Chef Oláh Dénes. The daily menu is as attractive as cheap: HUF 1,690 / 5.5 EUR  for two-course and HUF 1,990 / 6.5 EUR for three-course. We rather chose the «A la carte», as it featured mouth watering home backed pizza: we recommend the light, pleasantly crispy 
«Pizza Prosciutto di Parma» (HUF 2,090 / EUR 6.5) or the rich «Pizza Frutti di Mare» (HUF 2,590 / EUR 8.5). Have it with a glass of  «Paulaner Radler Beer» (HUF 900 / EUR 3), followed by an unctuous «Tomato Soup with Basil & Parmesan» (HUF 1,090 / EUR 3.5). 

A yummy dessert, the «Panna Cota with Chocolate Brownie and Strawberry» (HUF 1,090 / EUR 3.5) is close to perfection.

Fine Hungarian and Italian wines can accompany the dishes, starting from HUF 780 / 2.5 EUR by the glass.

If you don't want to impress your dinning companion with some extra luxury, but yourself with a gourmet experience, you will enjoy Riso as much as we did.

RISO:  Lovas út 41., 
H-1012 Budapest
PHONE: +36 1 224 7424         FACSIMILE: +36 1 224 7421

ALABARDOS (*****L): Settled in the ground floor of a small baroque palace, opposite the Hilton and Matthias Church, this restaurant is a landmark. More discreet than Gundel, and therefore much less touristy, it remains since decades the most exclusive fine dinning alabardos_best_restaurants_budapestalternative in Budapest. Traditional and classy, it could somehow be compared to La Tour d'Argent  in Paris.  New great restaurants nowadays make Budapest a wonderful gourmet destination; this was a pleasure to visit some of them time after time, neglecting little bit Alabardos which we rediscovered with pleasure in Spring 2014. The dinning room is still homey and comfy. The service still one of the best in Central Europe. Last but not least, the already splendid cuisine improved quite a lot: with more inventive, lighter dishes. The management sent his chefs travelling around the world: they came back more inspired than ever... but remaining so Hungarian in the use of fresh, 100% local products from the best farms!

Those fed up with the trendy, minimalist «fashionable» restaurants will love Alabardos at first sight. Back to the roots of an authentic cuisine which reflects the Epicurean essence promoted by Auguste Escoffier, and modernized by Executive Chef Attila Bicsár.

Sitting in the Room of Knights -or in Spring and Summer time in the terrace- sounds like a privilege after a long day dedicated to business or an exhausting city tour. Listening to soft, relaxing live classical guitar melodies, we delegated to Béla Juhász, the efficient and friendly maitre d', the difficult task of seducing our palate. «A la carte» is available; though most of the patrons adopt the daily offer, displaying a generous use of the freshest ingredients, and updated at least once per week; if not everyday. For less than EUR 50 (EUR 100, including wines, soft beverages and coffee), we got a great value for money multi-courses banquet.

Our gourmet bite for the welcome was a delicate «Marrow Stew with Mushroom Balls», quickly followed by certainly the best starter enjoyed during our stay in Budapest: a nice looking, slightly caramelized «Grilled Goose Liver with Lentils», wisely paired with the last drops from our glass of well chilled, classic «Tokaji Szamorodni dry 2001, Krisztián Sauska», served with our marrow, and a second glass of mineral, refreshing «Tokaji Padi Hegyi Furmint 2009, János Árvay». Hungarian soups are always well worth the try, and our «Asparagus Cream Soup with home-made Ravioli filled with Ewe Cheese» was glamorous. Served, just like all the dishes, in richly decorated, priceless original Zsolnay plates; as antique as the heavy, engraved cutlery handled over the years by movie stars, pop stars and statesmen patronizing Alabardos. It didn't take long  -just the time to explore the vaulted room with its high walls covered with swords and other antiques- before we got our favorite Hungarian dish presented to our table: the «Grilled Pike-Perch». Just like the Hungarian people, we prefer to call it «fogas»: as this noble fish, from Lake Balaton or Tisza River, has indeed more savor and texture than the common, frozen pike-perch imported from the River Nile and other exotic unclear water... The tastes a different: nobler, with something like a signature: we got it topped over a sweet polenta cream, typically Hungarian sweet and sour 
«lecsó» vegetable stew, and unexpected «pok choy» (white stewed vegetable from Southern China). A ventured, though successful mixture of tastes and origins. We loved it, with its glass of «White Loliense 2010, János Konyári», from one of the best situated vineyards in Balatonlelle.

In Autumn and Winter, Alabardos gets much of its reputation from the game: nobody does it better. This was too late to enjoy it: it has been replaced by lamb, veal and beef from the best origins. The «Slice of Beef in Red Wine Sauce» was brilliant, though we have never been fond of the beef jaw; we must admit that the recipe was so good, giving us the opportunity to discover the local 
«tarhonya» risotto -a peasant delicacy which we could compare to egg barley!- that we won't despise the jaw anymore...  only if it has been cooked by Attila! It was paired with the best wine we enjoyed during that gourmet evening. Its name is now engraved in our memory like in marble: «Siklósi Cuvée 7, 2007, Krisztián Sauska». Our unique comment: drink it once in your life! The same Krisztián Sauska also produced, with the assistance of French wine-makers, the sophisticated, fruity «5 puttonyos Aszú» which was served with the dessert: the recommended and light «Cottage Cheese Trilogy», featuring cottage cheese roll, cottage cheese ice-cream (yummy!), and strawberry cottage cheese mousse.

No more visit to Budapest without a visit to Alabardos: we swear it! This is now, more than ever, the best, most affordable five star gourmet restaurant in town. Booking is essential. Formal dress.

Open Monday to Saturday (Mon-Fri: 19:00-23:00, Sat: 12-15 and 19:00-23:00).

ALABARDOS: Orszaghaz u. 2, H-1014 Budapest
PHONE: +36 1  356 0851               FACSIMILE: +36 1 214 3814
E-MAIL: alabardos@t-online.hu



NANCSI NENI (****): When Hungarian seamen (it exists, indeed!) step ashore, what do they do? Some, like Frigyes Schädler, open a restaurant. Back to his roots, the owner of Nancsi Neni (which means "Grand'Ma Neni'), didn't dedicate his concept to seafood, as one nancsi neni best gourmet restaurants traditional hungarian cuisine budapest hungarycould logically imagine; nostalgic of the rich, mouthwatering though quite simple dishes his grandmother Neni cooked when he was a child, he developed a concept where everybody would feel at home. Affordable Hungarian delicacies are served by an anticipating staff, in a dining room decorated with traditional items. You feel like miles away from Budapest: in a "vendeglö" (traditional peasant inn), in the heart of the bucolic Hungarian countryside, or on the Balaton Lake shores. In reality, the restaurant stands in the Buda hills, and can be reached by a 10 minutes tram ride from the city center. Even better: it is located at the Hüvösvölgy terminus of the "Children's Railway": one of the most picturesque and exciting attractions in town.

The place had it all to be a tourist trap; it is not, indeed. Nancsi Neni is known by word of mouth, and a vast majority of the guests are local people and foreign residents. Even when visiting, like us, the place during the low season, you won't sit alone. When tourists come from Springtime until October, there is no hustle at all: this is when the green, pleasant terrace starts operating. You, therefore, don't feel like any stressing noise or excessive proximity. Just some waves of enthusiasm and enjoyment. 

We got into our hands what seems to be the most complete menu in Budapest. Our choice was therefore as appetizing as difficult to make. Entrées are well balanced. The fantastic "Fresh Goose Liver with Steamed Grape" (HUF 3,950 / EUR 13) which was the highlight of our last visit, in August 2014: a generous portion of liver is marinated in Sherry during a night, then seared over the grill, while the marinade is used to prepare a delicious sauce in which stoned grapes are steamed. Served on coated milk-loaf, this starter caters two people at ease. Those who would like to do in Hungary like the Hungarians do, would rather ask for a soup. We suggest the "Fresh Bean Soup with Vegetable and a Few Smoked Ribs" (HUF 2,450 / EUR 8): Grand'Ma Nani liked to cook it once a week for her gourmand family. Bean Soup is one of our cheapest sins: we must say that this one was close to perfection: if you put some cream inside, and if you dare to add some local, tasty and hot paprika, then perfection will turn to ecstasy. A light alternative? Try the "Sunday Chicken Broth" (HUF 1,850 / EUR 6): pleasantly flavored soup, made from Guinea-Fowl, with Carrots. 

As we have explained, Nancsi Nani is not a seafood restaurant; which didn't mean that fish couldn't be enjoyed here. Salmon, sole, monkfish, shrimps and dory (more precisely John Dory) are part of the new menu. Residents sometimes just come for it, as the chef is expert in that still "exotic" food: don't forget that Hungary is a landlocked country, inhabited by one of the most "carnivore" people in the world. Landlocked; but with one of the largest lake in Central Europe, called Balaton. Originated from the lake, the "fogas" (local name for pike-perch) is one of the most refined fish on the whole planet. It could sometimes be better that monkfish, or even lobster. Since a few years, fishing from Balaton has been banned to protect and redevelop the local fauna. Pike-Perch comes now from the Nile, with almost the same distinctive taste and texture. Don't miss it, served at only  HUF 95.- / EUR 0.3 /dkg! We like to have it grilled, by the fillet, served with buttered potatoes sprinkled with parsly and in butter steamed vegetables (HUF 3950 / EUR 13).e

The menu features a lot of meat, of course. From the bourgeois "Cordon Bleu" to the peasant "Boiled Beef in Hunter's Sauce" (HUF 3,450 / EUR 11), the choice is wide and wise. We had the later: our beef was tender, from top-quality oxen, served with a sweet carrots and kitchen garden's vegetable sauce, and fresh dumplings. A good choice; thought we even preferred the wonderful "Crispy Duck Leg" (HUF 3,950 / EUR 13). "Hard to beat!" said the menu: which is true! Those who have been lucky enough to enjoy once in their life a real confit of duck, made just like in the South West of France, will on the spot recognize the signature of an expert chef. Whose skill is permanently developped by the tips from his traveling owner, very much aware of the French cuisine. Our noble webfooted had been stylishly sacrificed to Epicure. We would also warmly recommend "Oven baked crispy trotter" (HUF 3,450/ EUR 11), served with roasted potatoes, and home-made mixed pickles „csalamádé”. This is, with the "Fogas", one of the master dishes on the menu. We loved the extremely popular "Veal Stew with Gnocchi" (HUF 3,450 / EUR 11): the Hungarian call it "Pörkölt", and it is as deep-rooted as the "Gulash" in the local culinary traditions. Ours was melting in our mouth, cooked with a generous dose of Paprika. Wonderful like simple things can be.  

We spoke extensively about Epicure, patron of our visit; but now what about Bacchus? The stylish wine list was as appealing as the menu. Fitting on the season (we received the"Spring-Summer" list), it started with the white or red "House Wines" (HUF 395 / EUR 1, per 1dl glass), reaching up the still affordable extremity of HUF 12,220 / EUR 39 for full-bodied, complex, red "Mayer Kopar 2012, Villany". An average HUF 3,000 - 6,000 (EURO 10 - 19) goes for most of the wines. To make sure you get the best value for money, order the waiter the list of elegant wines which the Schädler family grows in the region of Balaton. 

Yummy desserts! The "Somloi Galuska" (HUF 1,450 / EUR 5) is one of the best in town: if you don't know yet how orgasmic this chocolate biscuit can be, try it without hesitation! It is even better when paired with a cup of robust, sweet, classic, fruity, and spicy Italian "Caffč Manuel". The "Floating Islands" (HUF 1.450   / EUR 5)  are a pure delight, with their bursting fresh vanilla aroma. Don't miss the local apricot brandy ("Oszibarack Palinka"): it fits ideally the "Vargabéles" (HUF 980 / EUR 3), sweet noodle cake with curd cheese available only on the weekend menu.  Not to forget signatures like "Chocolate Soufflé" (HUF 1680 / EUR 5), and "Cottage Cheese Dumpling (HUF 1450 / EUR 5).

A restaurant for gourmets, managed by gourmets.

NANCSI NENI: Ördögarok ut. 80, 1029 Budapest II 
PHONE : +36-1 398 7127               FACSIMILE : +36-1 397 2742 
E-MAIL : info@nancsineni.hu 

KISBUDA GYÖNGYE (***): The soul of Budapest stands in this small bistro, located away from the tourists’ paths, in the outlying historic Obuda. A short taxi drive from downtown, it is easily reached by the public transportation.  

best restauraants budapest kisbuda gyongyeAll nations and all social classes sit along side one another in the small dining room, decorated with lovely 1920’s Hungarian antique furniture, animated by a gifted and talkative pianist who seems to be familiar to most of the clients… Dining at Kisbuda Gyöngye is not an individualistic experience; we felt like we were part of a family banquet. With friendly guests, a warm anticipating staff, and one of the most generous and delicious tables in Budapest, we enjoyed a leisurely evening. 

The extended multilingual menu features the best Hungarian recipes, with a touch of personalization. Closer to perfection than to sophistication: authenticity quite well depicts the rustic cuisine served by Alice, the owner, in person. Or by Laszlo, the good humoured manager and maitre d’hôtel since the opening in 1990.  

Our recommended starter is the solid “Cold Meat Hors d’Oeuvre from the Pantry”: a rich selection of natural, smocked, and pan fried guaranteed home made goose liver.  It costs HUF 3280 with a glass of Tokaji Szamorodni Edes 2002 “Hattyus”.  We also liked  the “Pheasant Consommé, with home made Noodles in a Cup”, fresh carrots and quail eggs (HUF 1280).  

Don’t miss the “Crispy Catfish & Spicy Tagliatelles”. A pure delicacy, quite spicy actually, enriched with pure truffle oil, and a wonderful paprika sauce. Those considering the catfish a non-edible, poor river fish, will be positively amazed by the aristocratic flavour of this plebeian meal.  Many clients ordered it the evening of our visit, and it seems to be a regular  favourite. From the long wine list, we selected a “Somloi Juhfark 2004, Csardas Fodor Winehouse”. A dry, expressive, refreshing and pleasant white wine: a good value at HUF 6500 a bottle.  

Meat reaches its highest level with the “Hungarian Tournedos with Goose Liver” (HUF 3480).  The smooth beef filet comes covered with a high quality home made “Lecso” (mashed paprika and onions) , far different from the liquid industrial sauce sold out in the Hungarian groceries. Thicker, also spicier, it doesn’t cover but develops the juicy taste of the prime quality of meat. It comes with thin sliced grilled potatoes. A gourmet would travel to Budapest for such a delicacy! Have it with a heady “Szekszardi Chateau Kajmad, Cuvée 2002, Lizt Pinceszét” (HUF 6200): a subtle redcurrant taste –some even find chocolate in its complex aroma- makes it one of the best red Szekszardi wines we ever had in Hungary. 

The good desserts, like the “Sweet Chocolate & Chestnut Dream” (HUF 1680), as tasty as caloric, will oblige you to exercise quite a lot to lose the extra kilogram(s) gained in this lovely Kisbuda Gyöngye.  

We finished with a local “grappa”: the “Törköly Palinka, Varda Drink” (HUF 2400), which must be enjoyed well chilled, develops this unique, noble musty taste imported from the Tokaji wine cellars. This is a must, even better than the traditional Apricot palinka. 

There is air-conditioning, and a charming summer garden. Open 12:00 – 24:00. Closed on Sunday. 

A place where you will like to come again and again. 

KISBUDA GYÖNGYE: Kenyeres utca 34, Budapest 
PHONE: (36-1) 368.6402, 368.9246   FACSIMILE: 368.9227 
E-MAIL: gyongye@remiz.hu 

REMIZ (***): In the elegant Zugligeti, a green area at the foot of the Buda hills, displaying lovely villas and green parks, five minutes by car from Moskva square, this temple of gastronomy is under the same management as Kisbuda Gyöngye. Awarded by the prestigious Zagat, best restaurants in budapest michelin star gourmet luxurymember of Prosper Montagné and La Chaîne des Rotisseurs gourmet clubs, this is a smart yet simple restaurant, with a summer garden, housed in a former coffee shop frequented by the pre-WW II society. The coffee shop is not here anymore; but the cakes sold out at Remiz are among the most remarkable in Budapest. 

We have been recommended, as a starter, the “Home-made Fine Nuggets on a Spoon” (HUF 2280): a selection of “delicatessen” elaborated with a special know-how, featuring Cheese Cream with Pesto and Ham, Aubergine with Garlic, Smoked Goose Liver, Doughnuts with Caviar, and Baked Goat Cheese. Perfect with a glass of “Royal Tokaji, Ats Cuvée 2005, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company” (HUF 1500 by the glass). Alternatively, try the lavish “Morel Mushrooms Stuffed with Truffle Cream, Pasta with Ewe Cheese and Dill”. At HUF 2680 we found it an amazingly good value, much inspired, and actually palatable. This is a royal dish served in a very generous portion. 

Royal also is the “Breaded Fillet of Pike-Perch” (HUF 2980): the legendary, and unfortunately more and more scarce, authentic Balaton “Fogas”, came to our table with some mild, fragrant forest mushrooms, and aromatic jasmine rice with vegetables. This is certainly the highlight of the very attractive menu. The texture and taste of the “Fogas” are unique, and it is fairly well cooked at Remiz. We warmly recommend it with a “Don Olivier, Chardonnay and Irsai Oliver 2006, Nyakas” (HUF 1150 by the glass): a juvenile, light and refreshing white wine matching fish very well. 

The deserts respect the receipts of the former coffee shop. The best sellers are the Dobos, the “Remiz” (a chocolate cream biscuit), and the famous "Somloi Galuska": at HUF 880, this sponge biscuit covered with a bitter chocolate cream, cannot be ignored. It is lighter than in many local restaurants, and can therefore be enjoyed without any restriction. 

A smart venue for smart gastronomes. 

REMIZ: Budakeszi ut 5, Budapest 2 
PHONE: +36 1 275 1396,  +36 1 394 1896   FACSIMILE: +36 1 200 3843   
E-MAIL: remiz@remiz.hu 


ONYX (*****L): Rated 17/20 points by Gault Millau, and awarded with one Michelin Star, the so-refined Onyx bloomed in April 2007, Vörösmarty Square, in the touristy heart of Budapest where finding a decent restaurant, impresses in a number of ways. Located on the onyx one michelin star budapestground floor of Gerbeaud (one of the most famous tea-rooms in Central Europe), the theatrical 55-seat dinning room, boosting modern textures and Neo-Regency armchairs, creates a romantic and deliciously chic atmosphere which we liked straight away. This is the ideal place to bring your girlfriend; or maybe even your wife... The light-coloured walls are decorated with precious fabrics and wall-paintings. 

The elegant tables are set far enough apart to preserve an intimate atmosphere amidst the Babel of voices which resounds with every language known to man. Expats from all origins, including many diplomats, business executives and government officials, make this little world go round. The tourists dining at Onyx the evening of our visit where definitely first class foodies, with an ardent interest in executive chef Szabina Szulló refined and inventive cuisine.

The first Michelin star chef  in Hungary, Szabina and sous chef Tamás Széll introduce a modern "Hungarian Evolution" cuisine, made of the freshest, highest-quality domestic ingredients products. Menu, where and new technologies are used in the preparation and presentation of renewed and updated versions of traditional Hungarian cuisine. We have ordered the recommended "Tasting Menu" (served only for the entire table), at HUF 30,900 (EUR 100) the evening of our visit, in Spring 2015. Wine paitring costs an extra HUF 18,900 (EUR 62).  Plus 15% service fee. Though we found the "mise en bouche" ("Beetroot, Trout, Blueberry") quite common and poorly harmonious in the association of savours, we actually liked the good natured appetizer: "Marinated tuna, Celery Cabbage, Coriander".  "Apple, Duck Meat, Grated Liver ", followed by "Langustino, Veal, Sorrel" were the highlight of the menu: well worth one Michelin star.  "Venison, Asparagus, Almond" and "Goulash Soup" impressed us little bit less, though the goulash was awarded a Bocuse d’Or 2013.  We received two desserts: the yummy "Sunflowers, Orange Blossom Honey, Ginger" and the refreshing "Pear, Verbena, Malt Beer". 

This fantastic classy gourmet restaurant opens Tuesday - Friday: 12 noon - last order 1:45 pm. And Tuesday - Saturday: 6:30 pm. - last order 9:30 pm. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. Reservation is essential.

ONYX: Vörösmarty tér 7-8. (Entrance from Harmincad street), 1051 Budapest 
PHONE: +36 30 508-0622        
E-MAIL : onyx@onyxrestaurant.hu  


KARPATIA (****): Founded in 1877, unaffected by the changes of regime, economy and mentality, this is still one of the top five legendary restaurants in Budapest. Located in the heart of the historic downtown, on the Pest side of Elizabeth bridge, next to Vaci street and the the best restaurants in budapest and hungary karpatia etteremFranciscan Church, this could be a perfect tourist trap; on the contrary, the Karpatia name has not been spoiled at all since Budapest became a major travel destination. Still serving the same gourmet specialities we had there many years ago, with the same lively and somehow heart breaking romantic live Gypsy music (with a "primas", cimbalom, and all which makes a band authentic), the quality matches the decoration: the rich wall paintings covering the gothic arcades refer to the XVIIth century, when Hungary was defending against the expansion of the Ottoman Empire. Realized in the 1920's, they have been classified "National Heritage" together with the furniture. 

International courses are available on the multilingual menu. But, in Rome do as the Romans do: rather order those peasant specialities, which make the Hungarian local gastronomy one of the most delicious in all Central Europe. Not to say in the world. Sometimes reinvented a lighter way by the chef, the menu includes all our favourite "csarda" style meals. Let's start, for instance, with a hearty Hungarian style Fish Soup, with catfish cutlet(1600 / 2300 HUF). Hungary being the first producer of goose liver, you should certainly order it as a main meal: pan-fried on a potato flat cake, with caramelized blackberry and rose pepper, it is a pure marvel (6500 HUF). Their Cold Goose Foie Gras with Onions & Fresh Vegetables (5600 HUF) is another good alternative. It should also be the perfect opportunity to open a fine bottle of Tokaji 5 Puttonyos Aszu 2004, Degenfeld Winery: this is a sweet, complex and full aromatic "white" (let's say: yellow) wine, with nice balance of acidity and sweetness (9500 HUF). Hungarian still like sweet wine with the foie gras: just like French gourmets used to do some decades ago. Up to date dinners will maybe prefer a classical and more adequate Egri "El Classico" Bikavér 2011: quite similar to the Spanish "Sangre de Toro", this is a full-bodied red wine with high acidity (6500 HUF).  

Hungary is not that much a country for fish: anyway, their Perch -they call it "Fogas"- is well worth the trip. This delicacy is of course in the menu, under the appellation Grilled Pike Perch Karpati Style, with shrimps, mushrooms, tomatoes, potatoes, and dill sauce (5500 HUF). Hungary abandoned by force Transylvania to Romania in 1921; which is a bitter souvenir! But it never forgot the specialities of this splendid and wild Carpathian region, which gave its name to the restaurant. We like the “Pörkölt”: this Hungarian veal stews, served with butter gnocchi (4600 HUF), is an excellent introduction to traditional Hungarian cuisine.  

During our last visit, we ordered the spicy Peppery Mangalica-Pork Roast, with hot paprika, potatoes and red onions (HUF 4500). One of our favourite,  made out of tender Hungarian  "Mangalica" (reputed for its savor and low-cholesterol ratio); nobody does it better, and nowhere but in Central Europe will you find such generous portions! Alternatively, we can recommend the “Hungarian Appetizer Platter" featuring salami, sausage,  peasant ham with fresh vegetables and paprika-ewe-cheese cream (3900 HUF). 

Modest eaters and vegetarians will see with pleasure that the chef has not forgotten their culinary choice: of course there are lots of salads and pastas available. But we prefer to keep on the Hungarian way, and recommend the signature dish "Karpatia Salata", called here Salad Karpatia with tender duck breasts, served with grilled wild mushrooms and vinaigrette (2900 HUF). The Salad with Baby Spinach, Bacon & Garlic Baguette with Parmesan  is not bad either (2700 HUF). Those light meals would go well with a Matrai Excellent Rosé 2013 Ludanyi  (4500 HUF): delivering intensive aroma, this is a fine example of the fantastic rosés to be found in this part of Europe.  

You should order by all means the Somló Sponge Cake, with nuts, raisins and rum, sprinkled with chocolate cream (1800 HUF). It is extremely popular under the name "Somloi Galuska". This is, by reputation, the  heaviest dessert you could have in Hungary. But at Karpatia it is prepared a different way: the sponge cake has been converted into a light mousse, rich in vanilia; and the thick, caloric chocolate sauce, has been replaced by a slice of brownie made out of a strong cocoa. Is it a miracle?:  it tastes like the original; not to say better!  Alternatively, the Strudel Trio (“Rétes”), with cinnamon mousse is amazing (HUF 1700). This delicacy  goes well with a glass of chilled Hungaria Extra Dry (5700 HUF/bottle), listening to the "primas" playing "Ciocirlia" for your very special attention! 

For about 15,000 HUF this makes a splendid evening only Budapest -when you go to the right restaurant! - is able to offer to distinctive dinners. Some even more affordable group menus, packages and seasonal offers are also available: for instance,  the lovely, informal Brasserie offers a great value for money lunch menu (updated each week with fresh ingredients) at only HUF 1700 for 2 courses and HUF 2000 for 3). Note that, for special occasions (meetings, wedding parties, or simply very intimate supper) lovely private rooms can be put at guests disposal. During summer time, the terrace offers outdoor seating for up to 150 guests.  

Don't miss it! 

KARPATIA: Ferenciek tere 7-8., H-1053 Budapest  
PHONE: +36 1 317 3596              FACSIMILE: +36 1 318 0591 
E-MAIL: restaurant@karpatia.hu 

BUDDHA BAR (****L): Those looking for a chic, cool Asian-fusion style cuisine experience will hear enthusiastically that a branch of the world-famous Buddha Bar, part of the top luxurious Buddha Bar Hotel Budapest, operates in Vaci walking street since 2012. buddha bar asian restaurant budapest vaci walking street klotild palace hotelWe experienced the graceful atmosphere of one of the most lavishly designed interiors in town, majestically accessible by marble stairs dating back from the erection of the Klotild Palace housing the restaurant and the hotel: example of the refined, somehow pompous neo-Gothic architecture which developed during the reign of the Habsburg, it has been enthusiastically restored to please the eyes and senses of the Buddha Bar spoiled patrons. We enjoyed our dinner by the the tall, gold Buddha statue protecting the preciously designed restaurant.

The chef is Arabic, has been trained in the best restaurants in the Middle-East, but keeps closely with all the Buddha Bar rules: focusing on 
a light, attractive fusion version of a tasty Pacific Rim cuisine. Prepared in a “family style” concept, most of the specialities can be shared among guests. We ordered  the “Dinner Bento Buddha Bar” set menu, with looked attractive and amazingly good value for a five star restaurant. “Bento” is a single-portion meal, common in Japanese cuisine. Presented in a box-shaped lacquer-ware container, it featured a refreshing Buddha Bar Chicken Salad, well textured Dim-Sum, almost authentic Thai Style Red Shrimp Curry and Wok Fried Beef with Thai Basil (more sweet basil and explosive red curries are used in Thailand!). Portions were as large as announced in the menu; accompanied by Steamed Jasmine Rice. We could not finish it, to keep some space for the Chocolate Sesame Bars with Coconut Ice Cream, also included in our menu.

Further set options and a large choice of a la carte Chinese, Japanese, Thai and other East Asian flavors combining subtly with a zest of the West are available.

The bill is surprisingly digestible for the preferred purlieu of the Hungarian jet-set, at HUF 5,900 (EUR 20) for our set menu. One glass of Champagne Taittinger Réserve costs HUF 2,900 (EUR 10), and Hungarian wines pairing well Asian dishes (like Furmint Oremus Tokaj, Mandolas or Chardonnay Konyari Pince, Balatonlelle) are charged under HUF 1,500 (EUR 5) by the glass.

PHONE: + 36 1 799 7302         FACSIMILE: + 36 1 799 7301
E-MAIL: info@buddhabarhotelbudapest.com


SPOON CAFÉ & LOUNGE (****): The most fancy restaurant in Budapest is situated on a boat docked along the Danube: strategically opposite some of the leading hotels (Inter-Continental, Marriott, Sofitel, Gresham Palace), which brings to the place 80% of its smart clientele. The rest is composed by the local society who likes to come here without the formal black tie, still imperative in lots of the restaurants of a similar category.  

Árpád László, the most famous restaurateur in town, opened in 2003 that astonishingly cheap, though very chic restaurant. Making it "THE place" where the action goes indeed. An army of waiters, managed by a young, super active "maître d' " directing the operations through his talkie walkie, assures a quick, almost immediate service with a thousand smiles. A miracle, when you know it deals with 200 indoor plus 300 outdoor seats! Once we reached our table on the upper desk (full, like the rest of the boat), we imagined at first sight that such a volume cannot deserve the best quality of food.  

Our pessimism vanished once we were served our starter: a selection of Sushi and Sashimi, homemade by a Japanese chef operating in public with the freshest ingredients. Have them by a mixed plate: the "Sashimi Moriawase" contains 7 pieces, and costs HUF 4,100 only. The Salmon, Tuna and above all the Octopus sashimi are simply wonderful. Excellent with a glass of Champagne or a local Törley. 

We then followed the wise advice of Chef Zsolt Beke, and ordered an "Octopus from Barcelona" (HUF 2,390), with basil olives: well worth the best "tapas" we ever had in Spain. It was cooked with a rich dose of garlic, which didn't affect at all our digestion (chefs have tricks to make that delicious garlic inoffensive). Alternatively, the "Roasted Goose Liver" (HUF 2,690) will satisfy the meat lovers. This is a declination of the famous Hungarian "Foie Gras"; lighter, with a caramel peach, it is an interesting speciality. Keep your glass of Champagne to enjoy both of those delicacies; or order a white Chardonnay from Villanyi.  With the liver, do like the Hungarian do: have a glass of Tokaj. With the melting, palatable "Argentinean Angus Tenderloin Steak", with garlic, blue cheese and a strong pepper sauce (HUF 4,890) that we had as a main dish, we took a red "Kekoporto". All those Hungarian wines are well worth the tasting, and reveal very good value for money indeed! 

Refresh your mouth with a "Gazpacho" (HUF 850). Rich, thick, made out of the best quality of tomato, it came served like in the Andalusian "tiendas": with peppered stick of celery.  

The dessert daily offer was a "Vanilla Pannacotta, with Lemon Grass and Strawberry" (HUF 890), worth the best confectioners. Great with a Danesi "ristretto" coffee.  

Lots of "cigar aficionados" aboard! We smoked our Cohiba Esplendido with a glass of Cognac "Godet XO" (HUF 4,000). Peacefully: enjoying a million dollar view on the illuminated Castle district (note that you can enjoy this breathtaking panorama from the gents washrooms, with the unique "pissoirs with a view"  in Central Europe, and maybe in the world!). 

There are many things that money can't buy; but with EUR 50 in your pocket, the Paradise is affordable at Spoon! 

SPOON CAFÉ & LOUNGE: Vigadó tér 3, Budapest 1052 (opposite Hotel Inter-Continental) 
PHONE: 411-0933, 411-0934 
E-MAIL: spoon@spooncafe.hu 

ROBINSON (****) : An attraction on its own! This lavish restaurant stands on a fairy tale's secluded island, on the still waters of a small lake, shadowed by the centenarian trees of the Varosliget Park (the equivalent in Budapest of Central Park in New York). There are not many best restaurants budapest robinsonrivers to cross, but a short wooden bridge, to gain access to an Eden for the gourmet: it has been used since almost two decades by the local jet set, ambassadors and international celebrities like Arnold Schwarzenegger, Warren Beatie, David Copperfied or Lionel Richie. Just to mention a few of them. Of course, this is one of the Top 5 restaurants in the Hungarian capital city for gourmet tourists who, like us, prefer this relaxed, romantic place, to the opposite Gundel (more stiff, conventional and expensive, with a cuisine which doesn't match Robinson). 

A million miles away from the busy city centre, we sat at the water edge terrace. The lovely pavilion-restaurant, with its floor-to-ceiling glass windows, was also appealing; but on winter time everybody wish to stay outside, enjoying the cool air of the powerful brumizer providing a maximum comfort when the temperature goes too high. The view on the Fine Arts Museum, Heroes' Square and Vajdahunyad Castle is imposing. 

The menu is summed up in four pages. It features only the freshest ingredients. "World Cuisine" is the chef's main inspiration; with a strong Mediterranean influence, like at Spoon Cafe & Lounge (Zsolt Beke is in charge of the kitchens of both restaurants, owned by Arpad Laszlo). Seafood is well represented. There is also a wide selection of vegetarian fares.  

Great starters. We knew the reputation of their "Grilled Goose Liver" (HUF 2,790),  prepared with balsamic lemon-grass.  But that time we preferred to enjoy the "Garlic King Prawn" (HUF 2,490): so fresh, so crunchy, with melting butter, smelling good the Mediterranean sea, they were served with a refreshing chilli flavoured rucola. Salads are a speciality here: like the "Rucola with Sherries, stick of Celery and Pistachio" (HUF 1,900) that we found nowhere but at Robinson. 

As a main course, we had a "Fogas" the Hungarian word for that very unique, amazingly tasty pike-perch from the Lake Balaton. The chef knows how to prepare it: respecting an ideal cooking time keeping intact the wonderful texture of this delicate fish, salted with a thin slice of bacon, and prepared with a light paprika sauce. Just don't miss it! At HUF 3,790 we found it one of the best value for money items on an already reasonably priced menu. The "Fogas" competed in our choice with the "Giant Prawn" (HUF 5,890) which came on a garlic-spinach bed, with green curry. Almost the way it is cooked in the best restaurants in Thailand and Singapore. If such is the "World Cuisine", let's go! We love it! 

The desserts came on a small, separate menu. Our two favourites are the "Creme Brulée", with a fresh fig (HUF 790) and the unforgettable "Floating Islands". Like our Mum used to do it; maybe lighter, more digestive, with caramel and sweetly perfumed with almond. At HUF 850 we found it amazingly affordable. 

We had all our lunch with a couple of glasses of very refreshing Törley. The wine list is one of the richest in Budapest, at very balanced prices. 

Like Spoon Cafe & Lounge,  Robinson was awarded "Best Mediterranean Restaurant" and "Best Outdoor Place".

The restaurant is permanently full: make sure to book in advance, by e-mail or by fax, before landing to Budapest. 

ROBINSON: 1146 Budapest, Városligeti tó (City Park) 
PHONE: (36-1) 422.0222,  422.0224         FACSIMILE: 422.0072 
E-MAIL: robinson@t-online.hu 

TRATTORIA TOSCANA (****): The best Italian restaurant in Pest specialises both in Tuscan cuisine and unrivalled pizza for the happy few. 

Old Tuscan specialities are served in the same atmosphere and style like in Florence. The receipts are certified by the Italian chef Giuseppe Mosti, who arrived recently in Budapest. Graduated from the Instituto G. Minuto, in Tuscany (regarded as one of the best cooking schools in Italy), he has exported his skill worldwide: from the Caribbean to the United Arab Emirates, Giuseppe acts like the apostle of the Tuscan tradition. Respect of the original receipts and supreme quality of the freshest ingredients are his guidelines. 

If you are lucky enough to find a free table in the rustic, warm, permanently full dinning room, you will be treated like a Medici! Despite of its peasant roots, the Tuscan cuisine displays an indeed aristocratic touch. Traditional, refined and humanist when fashion goes to the food-processing industry, it pleases the gourmet at first sight.  

The staff is anticipating. As soon as we sat, we were served a generous portion of freshly baked Focaccia; the temptation to empty our basket was revoked by the prompt delivery of a "Porcini Mushroom Cream Soup" (HUF 990), all dedicated to suaveness. Antispasti are the best in Budapest. Have the number one on the list: the "Steamed Octopus with Raw Zucchini e Citronette". At HUF 3090 this is not the cheapest: but indeed impressively tasty and fresh. We found it worth the visit! The "Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio with Rucola and Shaved Parmigiano" might sound like a classic; at Toscana it comes like a pure delicacy. Again, thanks to the amazing freshness of the ingredients. At HUF 2250 we found it fairly good value for money. 

The pastas can be lavish. Particularly if choosing the "Tortellini filled with Ricotta Radicchio and Mascarpone", served with a sea bass sauce and lemon zest (HUF 2090). Or the aristocratic "Linguine with a Lobster and its sauce", for two people, priced by the lobster's weight: expensive, of course. Our "Italian Black Risotto Fisherman Style", with mixed seafood, was certainly more basic; but we loved it, indeed. At HUF 2590, don't miss it. 

Good meat. The "Veal Cutlet with Porcini Mushrooms" (HUF 2950) is delicious. Like the "Grilled Rack of Lamb" (HUF 3390).  

We found the pizza splendid. Thin, crispy, slightly browned on the edges, generously filled with first class ingredients. The way we like it, indeed! It comes of course from an authentic pizza oven: similar to those used by the best "pizzaioli" from Naples. We cannot recommend one precisely: each gets its particular quality and unique taste. Ours was a "Capricciosa" (HUF 2150), filled with tomato, mozzarella, mushroom, Prosciutto ham, eggs, artichoke and olive oil. 

We finished with a remarkable -though classic- "Creme Brulée" (HUF 1050), which goes very well with their strong expresso coffee All Amaretto (HUF 920). Of course, there is a rich selection of Grappa from the best origin. 

Last but not least, note that the Trattoria Toscana is a great restaurant for wine lovers. The owner operates the wine shop next door, "L'Enoteca", with a solid reputation in town. The 12 pages wine list offers some interesting, valued for money brands. We had our dinner with a 2001 Chianti "Rufina, Basciano, Renzo Masi" (HUF 5200). Classic. Perfect with meat, pasta and pizza. But you can also order local wines, which are sometimes a pure marvel: they have all kind of Tokaji, and interesting heady, strong red wines like the "Egri Bikaver". More precisely the "Egri Bikaver Barrique, Simon Jozsef" which presents the advantage to be sold out by the glass (HUF 660 per 1dl). 

Make sure to book in advance. The place is well known, and don't need to be advertised; it is always packed with foreign residents who made Toscana their canteen. 

TRATTORIA TOSCANA: Belgrád rkp. 13. 
PHONE: (36-1) 327.0045  
E-MAIL: info@toscana.hu 

CENTRAL KAVEHAZ (***): A "Grand Café" reborn! With a stunning Art Nouveau interior, and smart, anticipating waiters wearing a traditional apron, this is the Hungarian version of Lipp or La Rotonde in Paris. With a difference: bills are a portion of what you would be central kavehazexpected to pay in such a place in Western Europe. 

It seemed that many of the guests comfortably sitting on the green wall seats were local and foreign residents. Astonishingly, we saw almost no tourist the day of our visit; the place might be still kept secret to them? Time and reputation will certainly help them to discover the interesting gastronomy displayed on the quite thin though attractive menu. The "Goulash Soup" (HUF 690 / EUR 2.7) is recommended. Don't miss the "Salmon Pike Perch": ours was superb! A delicacy, served with green lemon butter and grilled vegetable. At HUF 2,990 / EUR 11,5, it comes like a gift. Plenty of desserts: great cakes -this is a coffee-shop- and the redoubtable multi-caloric "Somloi Galuska" (HUF 690 / EUR 2.7): you must avoid if you are on a diet... but we love it, and found it wonderful indeed at the Central Kavehaz: with a soft custard actually tasting fresh vanilla, and a thick, slightly bitter chocolate sauce.  

The menu suggests one or two wines fitting each speciality, at very reasonable price. Like many dinners, we rather ordered a mug of that fresh, almost chilled draft beer which participates to the fame of this amazing café which is also well known for its immaculate restrooms: they are so huge that they could host a dozen of local families!  

A great value for money, friendly, and off the beaten tracks place. 

CENTRAL KAVEHAZ: Karolyi Mihaly utca 9, 1053 BUDAPEST 
PHONE: (36-1) 266.2110     FACSIMILE: 266.4570 
E-MAIL: centralkavehaz@t-online.hu 


WHY NOT? (classical restaurants, with a pleasant atmosphere... and average food) 

GELLERT (DUNA RESTAURANT) (****): The restaurant is maybe not as smart as the neighbouring baths, but it displays a very interesting local atmosphere; just like the rest of this hotel, which remains one of our favourite in Budapest. Anyway, people rather come here for the high quality of its table. This is quite a classical place, where delicious Hungarian cuisine is available at moderate price. The main speciality, introduced some decades ago by award-winning master cook Ferenc Novak, is the Fillet of Veal Gellért Style, served with an unforgettable ragout (ham, cheese, cream, mushrooms and peas) covering the meat, topped with cheese and roasted. The Hungarian Sirloin Gulash is great. The Stuffed Cabbage Debrecen Style and the Braised Leg of Mutton "Bonne Femme" are absolute must. Simply don't deal with too sophisticated "nouvelle cuisine" courses; only their name sounds good. In Hungary do as the Hungarian do: prefer the palatable local gastronomy which goes here to a top. On summer time, a dinner at the terrace with a dramatic view on the Danube and the Gellert Hill, entertained by live Gipsy music, is simply worth the trip. Two people will be charged approximately HUF 17,000/USD 60, with one bottle of good local wine.  

GELLERT:  1111 Budapest XI., Gellért tér 1.  
PHONE: (36-1) 385 2200         FACSIMILE: 466 6631 
E-MAIL: resoff@gellert.hu 

SZECHENYI (at GRAND HOTEL MARGITSZIGET) (****): We like this terrace, its romantic atmosphere with excellent gipsy music, and its location in the park of the Marguerite Island. Food is classical, without particular surprise, though tasty and good value. Just experience the "Somloi Galushka": this chocolate dessert is the very best in town.  

SZECHENYI (at GRAND HOTEL MARGITZSIGET): Margitsziget, H-1138 Budapest 
PHONE: (36-1) 452 6200        FACSIMILE: 452 6264 
E-MAIL: resind@margitsziget.danubiusgroup.com 

GUNDEL (****): This very elegant restaurant is more worth for its decoration than for its cuisine. Very "touristy", indeed. This is the Budapest alter  ego  of  "Maxim's" in Paris. Though sometimes some good surprise could happen: for instance when the maître d' hôtel remembers your face and treats you like one of the top VIPs (Georges Bush Sr, Sylvester Stallone, Queen Elisabeth II...) who still consider Gundel as the "best restaurant in Central Europe" (it is not anymore, since the 2nd World War...). We like it for special occasions. Quite expensive according to the Hungarian standards: don't expect enjoying a great dinner under HUF 20,000. Much more if you drink vintage wines... Formal dress. 

GUNDEL: Allatkerti Körut 2, Budapest XIV 
PHONE:  (36-1) 468 4040                     FACSIMILE: 363 1917 
E-MAIL: info@gundel.hu 





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