L'ARÔME (THOMAS
BOULLAULT)
(*****L):
How comes we didn't know this exquisite restaurant located
not far from the Champs Elysées, and his enthusiastic chef, one Michelin-star
since 2009? Thanks to our friend,
influent food writer Gilles
Pudlowski, we lately
“discovered” Thomas
Boullault's generous and creative cuisine, inspired
a lot by his origins (Sologne, in the centre of France) and a bit by
Escoffier. Providing a Dress code smart casual. Open 12PM – 2PM (lunch) and 7:30PM – 9:45PM. Closed Saturday and Sunday.
L'ARÔME: 3 Rue
Saint-Philippe du
Roule, 75008 Paris, France
LILI
(*****L): More
than the «bistro-chic» L'Oiseau
Blanc,
this is The Peninsula Hotel proclaimed gastronomic restaurant and,
undoubtedly, the best Chinese fine-dining option in Paris. A title
disputed with the Shang Palace
(at
Shangri-La Hotel),
which we found
L'OISEAU BLANC (*****L): The glass-roof-topped dining room, with a view on the
Eiffel Tower, or the breezy panoramic summer terrace, would be enough
to fascinate any spoiled tourist. The service, beating many
Michelin-star restaurants, would please a king. The Light, simple,
somehow provincial but definitely succulent, we would also recommend
“High-Seas Whiting and Razor Clams”, stewed with leeks, celery and
crispy melon. We paired both dishes with mythic and opulent “Vougeot
Ier Cru, Clos Blanc de Vougeot, Domaine de la Vougeraie 2012” (EUR 43
by the glass). The bill, excluding
beverage, is surprisingly affordable. Appetizer + main dish / or main
dish + dessert was EUR 57 in winter 2016. Appetizer + main dish +
dessert: EUR 69. G.M
GUY
SAVOY (*****L): The
man
is in the image of
his restaurant: charming and never boastful. At Guy Savoy's,
the
contemporary decor designed by Wilmotte, the Bram Van Velde
and Daniel
Humair paintings and the African statuettes seem to have stepped from
the
pages of a Behind the apparent simplicity lies a love—a passion—for shrewdly prepared produce. This results in short preparations with precise flavors: sharp, absolutely flawless and always surprisingly authentic. Whether this is your first or umpteenth visit, the signature dishes are extraordinary creations. The truffled artichoke soup with mushroom and truffle-seasoned brioche, oysters over an iced seafood broth, foie gras with salt, grilled sea bass seasoned with mild spices and turbot in egg salad and in soup express the qualities of the vegetable, shellfish or fish, refusing to allow themselves to be sidetracked. These examples of a true taste and its hidden qualities are also expressed by the pan-fried veal sweet-breads with truffled potato turnovers and Bresse chicken with lemon-grass cream sauce and lightly grilled vegetables. The subtle, precise desserts play from the same score, like the "déclinaison de fraises" (variations on the strawberry theme), the fabulous crème "minute", served with green apple jus, a masterpiece we found perfectly copied in the restaurant of three-star Londoner Gordon Ramsay, or chocolate spiced with tonka beans. Brilliant! What more can we add? Guy Savoy is clearly one of the subtle maestros of our day. Prix fixe: EUR 230, EUR 285. A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday, Monday, 1 week from Christmas-New Year's, August. Open until 10:30 PM. G.P
SHANG PALACE (****L):
Since
1974, all Shangri-La hotels worldwide operate a branch of this upscale
Chinese gourmet restaurant: therefore, the sumptuous Shangri-La Paris,
inaugurated in 2010 in Prince Roland Bonaparte's 19th century mansion,
operates Richly filled, Frank Xu's
dumplings can be
compared
with what we used to eat in fine Hong Kong or Singapore restaurants.
The Crab Meat Dumpling in Superior Clear Soup was also very reminiscent
of our trips to Asia. We found the Fried Egg Noodles with Shredded
Chicken and Bean Sprouts in Superior Soya Sauce quite good; though you
will find exactly the same dish in a cheap Chinese delicatessen in
Belleville or Porte de Choisy (the Chinese districts in Paris). The
portion was huge and we quickly felt full stomach; surprisingly, a
waiter asked whether we would like to take it away in a doggie bag?
Astonishing in a palace hotel, but not at all in an oriental
restaurants where this practice is most common. The Shangri-La Paris
operates a second
Asian restaurant, La
Bauhinia, and L'Abeille,
a renowned 2 Michelin star restaurant for splendid French cuisine by
chef Philippe Labbé. G.M SHANG
PALACE (HOTEL
SHANGRI-LA PARIS): 10 avenue d’Iéna, 75116 Paris
CAFE
DE LA PAIX (****L): A landmark, the Café
de la Paix remains since 1862 one of the leading brasseries in Paris.
Attached to the Grand
Hôtel, (now InterContinental
Paris Le Grand) with an outside terrace facing the Opera House, it
remains nowadays one of the most We found the «Loster Club
Sandwich» plain Jane; nothing to compare with the sappy «Loster Roll» served opposite,
at Montecito, in the not so
concurrent Hotel
Kimpton Saint Honoré Paris (same IHG management). This is, with the
absence of tablecloths, the only negative remark after our 99% positive
experience.
G.M CAFE
DE LA PAIX: Angle Place de l'Opéra - Boulevard des Capucines
- 75009 PARIS
PHONE: +33 1 40 07 36 36 - FACSIMILE: +33 1 40 07 36 13 E-MAIL: reservation@cafedelapaix.fr
EPICURE
(LE
BRISTOL) (Eric Frechon) (*****L): With
three Michelin star, this is one of the top five hotel restaurants in
Paris.
Chef Eric Frechon, "Meilleur Ouvrier de
France" 1993
(=Best French Handicraftsman) award for culinary art, renews thrice a
year
his Visiting the "Grande Carte" sounds a temptation. Our "Homard Breton", blue lobster from Brittany (considered the best in the world), served with curried cucumber, milded by a generous touch of coconut milk, was aristocratic. Great texture, showing a perfect freshness. Great taste. Somehow influenced by the royal Thai cuisine. Well worth its EUR 69, this is a must! It is also available under a second, very attractive version: beech wood smoked, with peas mousseline, and lobster heads infused in wild mushroom juice... EUR 95; and well worth this price. A hard to forget delicacy. Alternatively, we would like to recommend the "Tourteau de Roscoff" (EUR 58): king crab from Brittany, served with pressed tomato, avocado flesh, and a divine tarragon infused coral. Or the "Langoustines de Guilvinec": served in a generous portion, they have been cautiously roasted with citrus thyme, onions and mango jam, then perfumed with a light citrus juice (EUR 80). Caviar is never very imaginative; except in Le Bristol: we had our "Osetra from the Caspian Sea" (EUR 98), with shellfish stock and sea lettuce, served with a cauliflower mousse. The association of the imperial caviar with the working class cauliflower was amazingly surprising: inventive, and actually appealing to the most spoiled palate. Of course one could hardly miss the "Macaronis Truffés" (EUR 55): Macaroni stuffed with artichoke, duck liver, gratinated with aged Parmesan: a specialty which made Eric Frechon world famous. Delicious with a glass of Champagne, those appetizers could also be much -not to say more!- enjoyed with a well chilled white wine. Like this "Condrieu 2002, Les Terrasses de l'Empire, Domaine Georges Vernays" which pleased our palate very much during our previous visit. Or with this wonderful, fragrant white "Sancerre, Le Chêne Marchand 2002" (EUR 50) that we enjoyed during our last inspection. Both wines perfectly matched the fish we ordered as a main course. Our "Saint-Pierre du Petit Bateau" (John Dory fish), with pickled lemon, sautéed squid and zucchini, mildly perfumed with precious aromatic sweet pepper from Espelette, was well worth the visit. A large portion goes for EUR 62. Alternatively, try the succulent "Bass from the Isle of Yeu" (EUR 85), smoothened with an oyster tartar, accompanied with charlotte potatoes mashed with flat leaves parsley juice. Meat is also served very generously. Like the "Poitrine de Cochon Fermier" (Belly of Pork) (EUR 60) or the "Barbecued Country Bacon" (EUR 61), roasted charlotte, herbs salad, with mustard seeds extracts : Eric Frechon likes to introduce so called "proletarian" -we would say: "bistro"- products (pork, but also whiting or "Calf's Head": the most surprising in Paris, presented rolled, slightly crunchy, and spiced with capers and... anchovies!) to an elitist clientele of rich gourmets, familiarized with caviar and truffle. A risky, but successful game: the result comes perfect. Our pork was brought to our table on a trolley, still smocking over the gridiron, served with purple artichokes steamed with mustard leaves. Astonishingly not that fat, juicy and ideally spiced, we would like to recommend it to those with a hearty appetite. The "Filet d'Agneau de l'Aveyron" (Fillet of Lamb) is a good alternative: cooked with fresh herbs, almost melting under our tongue, it came into our plate with a delicious accompaniment: garlic croquettes, and zucchini jam ideally balanced with the fragrant essences of olive and basil (EUR 59). Or the "Suckling Veal Sweetbreads" (EUR 79), braised with dried fennel, carrots with gingerbread and lemon, and its cooking juice: a delicacy. We had it all with a "Saumur Rouge 2001, Foucault, Domaine du Collier, La Ripaille": pulpy, fruity, pleasant and easy to drink. Good value also (EUR 60). We have been too often disappointed by deserts, in those ritzy palace hotel restaurants. Which was not the case at Epicure. Assisted by a remarkable pastry cook (Laurent Jeannin, well trained in the hotels Crillon and George V), Eric Frechon brought to his menu splendid specialties. We took the classic, chic and very Parisian "Soufflé Chaud au Grand Marnier, Cuvée du Cent Cinquantenaire": a warm soufflé, precious vintage Grand Marnier flavoured, with orange and lemon sorbet, "Pain de Gênes" (sweet Italian Ginger Bread). At EUR 25, you cannot miss it, indeed. We can also recommend the "Abricots rôtis au Lait d'Amande" (EUR 22): roasted apricots, with almond milk, crumble, hot chocolate, and Amaretto ice-cream. Succulent. Not available all year long, "La Petite Gaufre aux Fraises des Bois" (Wild Strawberry Waffle), is divinely light. Those looking for absolute originality can order the "Fresh Fruits Sorbet" (EUR 20), very classical at first sight, with its fresh milk and cream scoops, and blond meringue... but served on a nitrogen cloud bubbling and fumigating from bellow the cup. Sometimes, El Bulli and his alchemist influence is not far away from the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré... Note that the bread is so wonderful at Epicure, that it is exported as far away as... the Royal Palace in Bangkok! The selection which came to our table is the richest we have seen anywhere in Paris. Try that one with natural sea salt... unforgettable. Last but not least, we would like to mention -and warmly recommend- the world famous "Poularde de Bresse au vin de Château Châlon, cuite en Vessie" (Hen Chicken from the Bresse): honoring the much awarded AOC Bresse chicken. This is, together with the blue lobster and the "Macaronis Truffés", the highlights of a prestigious selection. It comes cooked in a bladder (the essence of the steamed wine make it so tender, so tasty, so... unique!), with crayfish, variety meats and actually royal black truffle. Superlative! The "Poularde" is the most expensive meal, at EUR 210 (for two peoples); but who minds the price at Le Bristol?! Moreover when comes the wine: Le Bristol has one of the best wine cellars in France, with exquisite and rare Pomerol Pétrus 1953, Château Yquem 1982, Corton Charlemagne 1992 and many others which are not systematically grands crus but tasty and sometime unforgettable regional wines. With more than 30,000 bottles, it is impossible not to please one's personal taste and budget: the friendly and extremely professional sommelier, Marco Pelletier, is a great adviser for those secret wines fitting all purses and palates. Conclude your dinner with a Louis XIII or, good value for money at EUR 55, with a glass of Bas Armagnac Laberdolive 1962: a pure marvel. Simply great with a Partagas Lusitania or a Montecristo N°2: a repressive French law bans this gourmet pleasure in public places, including five star restaurants, but smoking it remains possible in the hotel garden. We
would only like to claim on one subject, related to
nostalgy: Le
Bristol traditionally operated two dining rooms for its gastronomic
restaurant, depending on the season. We did love the
Winter
Restaurant: plush, ritzy, just splendid, operating from November until
April in an oval room that was, in the XIXth century, Jules de
Castellane's
private theater. It was adorned with magnificent Regency hand-carved
woodworking
in Hungarian oak. Its glass roof was highlighted with gold leaf, and
set
off by panels painted by Gustave-Louis Jaulmes that festooned the
Pleyel
room of the Chaillot palace. A magnificent XVIIIth century tapestry
from
the Lille Manufacture completed the decor, enriched
by
crystal chandeliers and a unique game table by Trehern. Such
a
splendor has been turned into a reception room by the new management:
which is a pity. Though Epicure opens to the largest hotel garden
existing
in the capital, making you feel away
from
Paris stressing life, the museum-like winter restaurant was so
capturing and so "grande époque"! We miss it...
Dress code smart casual. G.M EPICURE (at HOTEL LE BRISTOL ): 112, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 75008 Paris PHONE: (+33-1) 53 43 43 00 FACSIMILE:(+33-1) 53 43 43 01 E-MAIL: resa@hotel-bristol.com
L'ATELIER
DE JOËL ROBUCHON ETOILE (*****L): With
a total of 25 Michelin Guide stars –the most of any chef in the world-
including 1 Michelin-star awarded in the Red Guide 2023 edition to
this well established outlet opened almost one
decade ago, the late Robuchon used to be referred as the “Chef of the
Century”. L'Atelier Etoile, stands in Another signature, the “French Quail from Villard Les Dombes, stuffed with Foie Gras” (EUR 33), sweetly caramelised with soja and honey, served with a double portion of Robuchon's legendary mashed potatoes, was simply brilliant, paired with one glass of aristocratic Tuscan “Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, Bolgheri 2010” (EUR 60 by the glass). Powerful but graceful, this is one of the most collectible Italian wines. Alternatively, fish lovers will like the “Seared Scallops served on Chicory Salad with Curcuma Vinaigrette and shaved Alba White Truffles” (EUR 52). A delicacy, amazingly light and palatable; though the weak fragrance of the first white truffles of the Autumn was much covered by the exquisite vinaigrette. Assisted by brilliant “companions”, like Fabien François and the young and charming Mélanie Serre, acting in the kitchen, this is a pure example of the creativity and the genius displayed in that category of restaurants. Words are missing to describe the sophistication of some dishes done to be tasted; not to be literalized. Head sommelier Alessio Delfino paired it with invigoring, yet sumptuous, “Condrieu, Côte Chatillon, Domaine Bonnefond 2010” (EUR 30 by the glass): a very herbal, aromatic wine produced in a small bio vineyard from viognier white-wine grape variety. The
lacy display bouquet of charming fruit of a dense “Corton Charlemagne Grand
Cru 2012, Au
Pied du Mont Chauve” (EUR 58 by the glass), paired ad hoc
our mouth
watering “Pan-Fried Sole
Meunière Petit-Bateau”
(EUR 79). Classic and classy, the generous portion treats two persons
at ease! Dress code smart casual. Open everyday until midnight. Note well that booking is available for lunch, from 11:30am till 12:30pm; and from 14:00pm till 3:30pm. Dinner : 18:30pm only. No booking possibility on other timing. G.M Average bill for this fabulous two Michelin Star restaurant is EUR 150 - 200 up. Dress code smart casual. Open daily until 12 AM. G.P L'ATELIER
DE JOËL ROBUCHON: 5-7, rue Montalembert, 75007 Paris
L'ARPEGE
(Alain Passard) (*****L): Oblivious
to fashion
and its diktats, Alain Passard remains true to form, loyal to the
produce-based
cuisine that is close to his heart. It has been a long time since
critics
questioned the lack of red meat on his menu. This grandmaster of the
vegetable
has Prix fixe: EUR 130 (lunch), EUR 340 (dinner). A la carte: EUR 250. Closed Saturday/ Sunday. Open until 10:30 PM. G.P L'ARPEGE:
84, rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris LA TERRASSE DU
RAPHAËL (*****L): One
of the top 10 rooftop terraces in Paris, and certainly the most
exclusive, this enchanting place has a hanging garden that offers a
360° view of Paris and the Eiffel Tower. A haven of peace in the heart
of the posh “Golden
LA
TERRASSE DU RAPHAËL (HOTEL RAPHAËL):17
Avenue Kléber 75116 Paris
FOUQUET'S
(****L): With Les Deux
Magots, Le Flore and
the Café de la Paix, this is one of the most recognizable cafés
in Paris. The concentration of celebrities visiting this legendary
address,
haunted by the world of movies, arts and politics, makes it the most
peopolized
place on Everybody -except some tourists, leaving their table with frustration- knows that Fouquet's is nothing but an authentic Parisian brasserie, serving solid, excellent traditional fares. If quick though friendly service, noise and crowd are not your style, you should rather straightly head to La Tour d'Argent, Taillevent, or Le Diane, located one step beyond, on the first floor of the high end Fouquet's Barrière hotel... But you will miss warm and exciting moments: Chef Jean-Yves Leuranguer feeds here, and in Le Diane, what one calls «Le Tout Paris» (=Parisian society), with yummy and reinvigorating specialties served in generous portions. The «Lobster Caesar Salad» and the «Fouquet's King Crab Flowers, Quinoa Grains and Citrus Vinaigrette» (EUR 49) are classics which would make us come back, indeed. Impossible to sit at Fouquet's without experiencing the «Coin de rue» style potatoes, considered by many -including Joël Robuchon- as the best French fries in Paris (which means in the world...). Enjoy them with a «Grilled Filet of Beef, Bearnaise Sauce». At EUR 48, it could feed two people, and is well worth the visit. We got it with a well paired «Crozes-Hermitage, Côte du Rhône» (EUR 12, by the glass). The wine list features up to 350 references; including a remarkable selection of Champagne (try the «Pomery Pop Earth», first 100% «eco-conceived» Champagne is exclusively served in Fouquet's). Though we found the «Rum Baba» quite ordinary and too strong on the Rum, most of the desserts are mouth watering: our preference goes to those made out of Valrhona Chocolate: the «Palet of Cesar», for instance. It is included in the well balanced «Traditional Menu», featuring appetizer, main dish and dessert: actually good valued at EUR 81. No need to be the Agan Khan, Marlene Dietrich or the Duke of Windsor -you might be seated at their favorite table: check it out from the iron-plate fixed on the wall- to afford the unique privilege of dining in much more than a restaurant: a symbol of Paris, officially recognized as a part of the Parisian patrimony by the Ministry of Culture. Owned
and
managed by the Lucien
Barriere
group of hotels. G.M FOUQUET'S:
99 avenue des Champs Elysees, 75008 Paris
LASSERRE
(*****L): Monsieur
Lasserre is no longer with
us, but his great establishment opposite the Palais de la Découverte
science museum marches on, more splendid than ever. Jean-Louis Nomicos,
a close associate of Alain Ducasse for years, presents a prix fixe
that Fixed price: EUR 75 (lunch), EUR 185 (tasting « Prix fixe »). A la carte: EUR 180-200. Closed lunch (except Thursday, Friday), Sunday, August. Open until 10 PM. G.P LASSERRE:
17, av Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, 75008 Paris
TAILLEVENT
(Alain Solivérès) (*****L): Alongside
the "modernists" and their sometimes controversial concoctions, the
"classicists"
have their place, but must obviously still bring their cuisine into
line
with today's tastes. This is exactly what recently demised Jean-Claude
Vrinat asked Fixed price: EUR 70 (lunch), 140, 190. A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Saturday, Sunday, end of July-end of August. Open until 10 PM. G.P TAILLEVENT:
15, rue Lamennais, 75008 Paris
LA
TOUR D'ARGENT (*****L): From
his vantage point,
Claude Terrail must be proud to see that while the world moves on, it
is
business as usual for La Tour. He has finally left us, leaving his son
André to run his institution. Lovers of Paris should not worry,
though: come hell or high The service in wing collar and tails, and the panoramic setting over-looking the Seine, the Ile Saint Louis and the roofs of Paris still hold ail their ineffable charm. The wine list, supervised by the expert David Ridgway, is still one of the most splendid in the world (a 1988 Château la Dominique was the choice accompaniment for our feast). Finally, pears poached in a vanilla cream and poire William with candied caramel, remains one of the most irresistible confections of ail time. Marvelous Tour! Prix fixe: EUR 70 (lunch), EUR 200, EUR 230. A la carte: EUR 200. Closed for reconstruction until Autumn 2023. G.P LA
TOUR D'ARGENT: 15-17, quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris
LAURENT
(*****L): With Edmond
Ehrlich gone, many had
their doubts about Laurent's future. They had not reckoned with the
determination
of its team of great professionals and the arrival of a conscientious
chef.
In the dining room, the good-humored Philippe Bourguignon
welcomes Prix fixe: EUR 75, EUR 150. A la carte: EUR 180. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday, Bank Holidays. Open until 10:30 PM. G.P LAURENT:
4l, av Gabriel, 75008 Paris
PHONE: (+33-1) 42 25 00 39 FACSIMILE:(+33-1) 45 62 45 21 E-MAIL: info@le-laurent.com LEDOYEN
(*****L): The Napoléon
III style has
been lovingly maintained, and guests here lunch or dine in one of the
most
elegant settings in the capital. Christian Le Squer's cuisine is in
tune
with these surroundings as he consummately champions the colors of
"his"
Brittany, enchanting Prix fixe: EUR 85 (lunch on weekdays), EUR 198 (lunch on weekdays), EUR 284 (wine included on weekdays). A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Saturday, Sunday, Monday lunch, August. Open until 9:45 PM. G.P LEDOYEN
: Carré des Champs-Elysées, 1, av Dutuit, 75008 Paris
PIERRE GAGNAIRE
(*****L): As
on the opening night of Victor Hugo's play Hernani, there are champions
and critics, cheers and boos, with some praising it to the skies and
others shooting it down in flames. Yes, three-star Michelin Pierre
Gagnaire is controversial, G.P 114
FAUBOURG (Eric Frechon / Eric Desbordes) (****L): Located
in the hotel Le Bristol new
wing, inaugurated
in October 2009, this bistro-chic where the action goes is attended by
artists, fashionists, journalists and -much more important-
gastronomes. Designed
on a duplex-level by Maja Oetker (owner of the hotel) and a wisely
selected
team
of architects, with gild columns, natural light provided We had our lunch on the street level: this is actually the place to see and be seen. Once the «Elysée Palace coffee shop» (during his reign, Nicolas Sarkozy's special advisers liked to sit there), this is now a familiar haunt for businessmen or celebrities from the local show business; the rich and famous still prefer the posh, more gastronomic Epicure restaurant. We are in the merge of fine-dining, with simple, traditional recipes. Three star Michelin Chef Eric Frechon supervises the menu; while the younger Eric Desbordes (ex-Hilton Paris, George V and Pershing Hall) remains the captain aboard. With a bright, appetizing, reinvigorated cuisine... and relatively fair prices for generous portions. Except the «Oeuf Cocotte au Chorizo & Fleurs de Capucines» (Baked Egg, Nasturtium Flower & Chorizo Flavoured), which we already enjoyed in the Winter restaurant, the «114 Faubourg» menu distinguishes itself completely from the main wing restaurants sophisticated offer. We recommend the «Oeuf King Crab, Mayo au Gingembre Citron» (King Crab Egg, with a Ginger-Lemon Mayonnaise): well structured, delicious pieces of the legendary Kamtchatka king crab legs come into an eggshell filled with a sweet mayonnaise, flavored with a lemon zest and a pinch of ginger. It costs EUR 22; which shocked some food-writers. The king crab ranks in the same price range like the blue lobster; is it a rip-off to charge this delicacy at the rate of a mediocre main dish in an average coffee shop? We are in the Bristol; those stepping in won't certainly be cooled back by such a detail. Our companion ordered the «Grosses Crevettes, Legume au Wok» (King Prawns, Wok Sautéed Vegetables) (EUR 45); the portion was as generous as the size of the prawns. We liked very much the cooking options: steam, plancha or grilled; with Tapenade, soja, Satay or Curry sauce. We had them plancha with Satay, and this was perfect. The roasted «Queue de Lotte au Poivre de Sechuan, Légumes Sautés au Wok» (Monkfish Tail, Seasoned with Sechuan Pepper, Wok Sautéed Vegetables) is one of Eric Desbordes' specialties. We went for it, and didn't regret our choice. The portion was more than generous, and came with freshly woked vegetables. A classic, with a well mastered cooking time, resulting into a unmatched savor and texture. It costs EUR 45 (EUR 38, when labeled «Dish of the Day»; which happens quite often). Have it all with a bottle of «Sancerre, Clos de Beaujeu 2007, Gérard Boulay» (EUR 60): fresh, mineral and conveniently acid, this wine from the French region of Berry provides a fascinating richness and complexity and a long, vibrant finish that calls for seafoods, fresh vegetables and goat cheese (have it alternatively with the selection of French cheese, at EUR 12). Desserts, by Laurent Jeannin, are wonderful: our favorite remains the «Millefeuille à la Vanille de Bourbon, Caramel au Beurre Demi-Sel» (French Layered Cake, Filled with Vanilla Custard and Mildly-Salted Butter Cream Caramel ) (EUR 18). A Kandinsky-like interpretation of the traditional millefeuille, with a great, sophisticated savor. The « 114 Faubourg
» is a must be tried, indeed. With 90
seats only, and many regular guests, booking is essential.
G.M 114 FAUBOURG
(at HOTEL
LE BRISTOL ):
114, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 75008 Paris
PHONE: (+33-1) 53 43 43 00 FACSIMILE:(+33-1) 53 43 43 01 E-MAIL: resa@hotel-bristol.com BLOSSOM
(****L): Located
in the high-fashion row, with Hermès, Chanel, and all the other
prestigious brands located a stone's throw, this restaurant, opened on
May 2017 in the ritzy Sofitel
Paris Le Faubourg, reflects its environment. Chic and light, it
offers a “couture
G.P MONTECITO
(****L): This cool culinary haven
occupies the ground floor of the Kimpton
Saint Honoré Paris:
a five-star pet-friendly gem, where Parisian allure meets modern
comforts, situated a stone's throw from the iconic Opéra Garnier, rue
de la Paix, and the regal Place Vendôme.
Gastronomy and elegance converge in this trendy restaurant, nestled within the expansive embrace of the hotel's glass canopy. A treasure trove of exotic  charm, transporting us to the sunny shores of
California, this cool eatery is helmed by the visionary chef Nicolas
Pastot: a maestro who honed his craft over a decade alongside the
esteemed Christophe Raoult at the Café de la Paix…
just across the boulevard. One small step for chef, one giant leap for
gastronomy: this dining haven ignites a symphony of flavors that
elevate Californian, New Age cuisine to the upper level, sprinkled with
playful Latin influences, tantalizing spices, and a celebration of
premium ingredients.As if orchestrated by a gastronomic maestro, a team of young, cheerful servers brings forth a medley of appetizers designed for communal indulgence. Savoring Vegetable Spring Rolls brimming with the freshness of carrots, leeks, mushrooms, ginger, and an ensemble of mint and coriander dancing in harmony, reminds of the vibrant eateries in Saigon. Lobster Rolls, a tribute to oceanic opulence, lovingly ensconced within delicate brioche, are a signature dish still in our memories. But the concerto doesn't stop there – behold the Tataki of Salmon: adorned with a crispy duet of puffed rice and sesame, joined by yellow pollock tacos nestled in a warm embrace of corn tortillas. It's a crescendo of culinary mastery! Every bite is a melodic journey that transports the palate to distant lands, orchestrating a dance of joy on our taste buds. The Montecito Burger takes center stage: a virtuoso performance that features pickled cornichons, a cheddar crescendo, and an opera of fresh greens, all elevated by a crescendo of masterful seasoning. And who can resist the allure of the San Francisco Cioppino? A culinary masterpiece reminiscent of «bouillabaisse», this dish plays host to the rich duet of monkfish cheeks, shrimp, mussels, langoustine «bisque», and zesty yellow lemon. It's not just a dish – it's a culinary serenade. As the final notes of this gastronomic play out, the dessert ensemble takes the stage: each creation a perfect cadence of indulgence. From the Pecan-Laden Cheesecake that sings with caramel and salted butter, to the zesty Lemon Meringue Pie, every bite is a sweet crescendo that leaves the senses dancing. Even the libations are a symposium of pleasure. With a Rum and Passion-fruit Cocktail, that's nothing short of liquid euphoria, and the prestigious Perrier-Jouet «Blanc de Blanc» champagne that sparkles like the finest notes of a menuet. And let's not forget the splendid «Marsannay les Longeroies» by Jean Fournier: a buttery and complex white wine, aged for 12 months in vats and in new oak demi-muid barrels, that's not just sipped, but savored. The price may be a high note, with Lunch Set Menus from EUR 39, Brunch at EUR 78, a la carte at EUR 50 - 90. But for the culinary concert that unfolds, every penny is a sound investment. So, whether you're a connoisseur or simply a seeker of culinary euphoria, Montecito at Kimpton Saint Honoré sounds like the blue note. The same chef manages Sequoia rooftop bar, which is an attraction on its own. It welcomes a mix of hotel guests and Parisian patrons. The view of the Eiffel Tower illuminated against the night sky is a sight to behold. Sipping a glass of Champagne, with a selection of Sushi and sappy snacks under the twinkling stars, feels like the epitome of cool luxury. Prices are moderate, yet the minimum spending to access the rooftop is set to EUR 40 per guest (which is fine, and represents more or less the price of a couple of draft beers). Dress code smart casual. Open for lunch (Monday-Saturday 12:00 - 14:30), and dinner (Monday-Saturday 19:00 – 23 / 23:30). Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 15:00. G.M MONTECITO (at Hotel Kimpton Saint Honoré Paris ): 27-29 Boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris PHONE: +33 1 80 40 76 40 E-MAIL: reservations@kimptonsthonoreparis.com BIVOUAC CAFE
(****L): Located
in the sublime Hôtel
Napoléon, our home away from home and one of the
most prestigious addresses in Paris, the private-club like restaurant
distinguishes itself by its refined privacy most convenient for a
business lunch or a subtle
 romance
in the shadow of the Arch of Triumph. The place boosts so much charm,
with its British bar & lounge, Mahogany woodwork in warm tones,
deep armchairs and sofas, subdued lighting, and dome frescoes, plus a
very chic outdoor terrace. inviting you to experience Parisian street
life on Avenue de Friedland as soon as the first rays of sun appear.We experienced the Bivouac Café dozens of times during our repeated stays at Hôtel Napoléon. This is the place for one of the best breakfast experience in Paris, indeed: beating in quality some major palace-hotels of Paris “Golden Triangle” with one of the best trained staff ever, displaying crunchy "Baguettes", great French cheese, and a generous selection of high quality cold/hot meals (fried farm-eggs in cast-iron cookware are amazingly delicious). From midday to 3pm, Monday to Friday, Executive Chef Olivier Le Gentil, specialises in Mediterranean cuisine, using herbs, seasonings and olive oil. He was the chef in 2 restaurants in Normandy, before joining the Hôtel Napoléon 12 year ago. At lunch time, regular patrons order from the savvy 3 course “Menu du Marché” (EUR 44). After one glass of Champagne “Brut Bruno Paillard Rosé”, we ordered “Goose Liver”, served over a slate plate with freshly baked olive bread. We paired it with “Haut Brion, Clarendelle 2009, a red second-wine produced in Pessac (Bordeaux) by Château Haut Brion, reputed for its first growth Premier Crus Classé. At EUR 10 by the glass, we would warmly recommend this aristocratic red wine. Fish was nicely cooked and elegantly presented in quite a generous portion: “Shade-Fish Osso Bucco, sautéed with fresh Ginger and diced Vegetables”. We enjoyed it with well chilled “Sancerre Henri Bourgeois, Grande Réserve 2014”, one of our favourite white wines from Berry (Loire Valley), at EUR 9 by the glass. The dessert was so yummy: a classic and classy “Lemon Meringue Pie”. Warmly recommended. G.M BIVOUAC CAFE (at HOTEL NAPOLEON): 40 Avenue de Friedland 75008 Paris PHONE: +331 56684321 FACSIMILE : +331 47668233 E-MAIL: napoleon@hotelnapoleon.com LE PARIS SEIZE (***): Throughout the week, a certain rapture accompanies one's pilgrimage to rue des Belles Feuilles where the Dumant brothers,  acolytes
of the vintage bistro, have transmuted a trattoria of four decades'
standing into an exemplar of the Parisian troquet. In a style evocative
of the 1930s and 50s, the ambiance retains its allure, imbued with a
reverie of nostalgia, showcasing banquettes of supple moleskin and
canvases depicting sporting scenes (with a respectful allusion to the
storied Raymond Kopa and Lev Yashin).For three score years, the sanguine Fred' Prudhomme has held court here, extending a warm welcome to all, whilst in the culinary sanctum, the seasoned Laurent Chéné, alumnus of the Auberge Bressane, presides, meticulously crafting a repertoire that pays homage to the establishment's guiding principle: that of "cuisine parisienne de qualité." Thus, the hors d'œuvres present a delightful juxtaposition of pâté en croûte of pork, fowl, and foie gras, alongside eggs mayonnaise accompanied by a mustard-infused emulsion, cooked with consummate precision (that is to say, not excessively). The menu, avowedly carnivorous – culminating in a resplendent fillet of beef béarnaise – also boldly explores the realm of offal, offering such rarities as a delectable veal spider steak in a Comté cream and lacquered sweetbreads adorned with morels. The accompaniments, including crisp spinach and heavenly hand-cut fries, are likewise beyond reproach. And in the goblet, the redoubtable Fred' bestows upon you a selection of rare and exquisite crus, spanning from Burgundy to Beaujolais. As a final flourish, the desserts are elevated to the same standard of excellence, with the île flottante, embellished with caramelized pralines of a delicate rose hue, being a veritable institution. Average bill EUR 35-50€. Open 12-2:30 pm, 7:30-10:30 pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday. G.M LE PARIS SEIZE: 18, rue des Belles Feuilles, 75116 Paris PHONE: +33 1 47 04 56 33 LE BISTROT DE PARIS (***): Nestled within the august confines of the 7th arrondissement, Le Bistrot de Paris transcends the mere designation of  restaurant;
it is a veritable institution, a bastion of Gallic gastronomy.
Established in 1965 by Michel Oliver, this hallowed establishment has
gracefully weathered the vicissitudes of time, retaining its inherent
charm and unimpeachable authenticity.To cross the threshold of Le Bistrot de Paris is akin to embarking upon a voyage through time. The décor, conceived by Slavik, pays homage to the sinuous elegance of Art Nouveau. Intricate stuccowork, Thonet chairs of classic design, and a period glass roof conspire to create an atmosphere that is simultaneously elegant and convivial, a haven of refined comfort. The staff, attired in the timeless monochrome of black and white, mirror the establishment itself: warm, attentive, and imbued with an air of effortless professionalism. In the culinary realm, the chef presents a menu that reveres the touchstones of French classic excellence. Oeufs mayonnaise, the briny tang of marinated herring (courtesy of JC David from Boulogne-Sur-Mer), pâté en croûte of surpassing delicacy, calf's liver prepared with consummate skill, and pommes purée of silken smoothness… these are dishes of deceptive simplicity, yet executed with unwavering precision and artistry. The wine list, a veritable oenological compendium, beckons the discerning palate to embark upon a vinous exploration. Here, one discovers exquisite cuvées, such as the vivacious chénas from Domaine Piron and the nuanced marsannay from Sylvain Pataille, each a perfect complement to the culinary offerings. A sanctuary beyond the ephemeral trends, Le Bistrot de Paris occupies a unique position, removed from the clamour and caprice of the metropolis. Patrons frequent this cherished locale to savour a cuisine of impeccable provenance, to bask in the warmth of its inviting ambiance, and to succumb to the allure of its authentically Parisian décor. Average bill EUR 40-80. Open 12:00-2:30 pm, 7-11 pm, except Sunday & Monday. G.M LE BISTROT DE PARIS: 33, rue de Lille, 75007 Paris PHONE: +33 1 42 61 16 83 LE PETIT SAINT BENOIT (***): We, as purveyors of discerning taste, are always on the hunt for those rare gems that capture the true essence of  Parisian
chic. And recently, we rediscovered a legend, reborn and
revitalised: Le Petit Saint-Benoît. Nestled in the heart of
Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this historic bistro, a veritable institution
which welcomed regular patrons, like Marguerite Duras or Jean-Paul
Belmondo, has been lovingly restored by the visionary Laurent Nègre,
breathing new life into a space steeped in Parisian history.We stepped inside, and were immediately transported. The zinc bar gleamed, a silent witness to countless conversations and celebrations. The checkered floor whispered tales of bygone eras, while the vintage tables and chairs exuded a timeless elegance, a palpable sense of history. It's a place where we felt time slow down, where the city's clamour faded, allowing us to simply savour the moment. Nègre's culinary artistry is evident in every meticulously crafted dish. The menu, a celebration of French classics, is reimagined with a contemporary flourish. We began with the decadent foie gras torchon, its rich flavour perfectly balanced by the sweet tang of fig jam. For our mains, the perfectly cooked steak frites, a symphony of textures and tastes, proved irresistible. And the wine list, oh, the wine list! A veritable treasure trove of France's finest vintages, it offered the perfect accompaniment to our culinary journey. But Le Petit Saint-Benoît is so much more than just exceptional food. It's the ambience, the impeccable service, the palpable sense of community that permeates every corner of the space. Whether you're a seasoned Parisian or a first-time visitor, as we were on this occasion, you'll feel instantly welcomed, enveloped in an atmosphere of warmth and genuine hospitality. Le Petit Saint-Benoît isn't merely a restaurant; it's an experience. It's a place where we can celebrate life's special moments, reconnect with loved ones, and, most importantly, indulge in the finer things in life. We left feeling utterly charmed, convinced that Le Petit Saint-Benoît has reclaimed its rightful place as a Parisian icon. Menus: EUR 22 (lunch). À la carte: EUR 45 - 55. Open 8 am-midnight. Closed Sunday. G.M LE PETIT SAINT BENOIT: 4, rue Saint-Benoît, 75006 Paris PHONE: +33 1 42 60 27 92 LORETTE (***): Still crushing on Vincent Pétron and his playfully subversive Lorette. They’re the vibe, effortlessly elevating the New Athens scene,  one
exquisite bite at a time. A Dumant alum, a true restaurateur,
Pétron radiates pure, unadulterated passion, igniting Rue Saint-Lazare
and the entire quartier. Notre Dame de Lorette’s right there,
witnessing Vincent’s solo flight, his bistro buzzing daily with a
deliciously chill, yet electric energy.The décor is authentically Retro. The food features classic bangers, done right. Prices are surprisingly decent, just a stone's throw from the super touristy Opera and Boulevard Haussman with its "Grands Magasins". Pétron is a legend. He and Lorette have got the whole package. Think nostalgic flavours, dialled up to eleven. Burgundy snails that’ll make you weep. Eggs mayo, but make it fashion. Steak tartare with killer fries. Sea bass so fresh it practically swims to your plate. And that sirloin? Forget about it. The menu is a perfect match for the shimmering opalines, vintage mosaics, and huge mirrors. Each dish feels like an art piece—elevated, exquisite, and unapologetically bold. Every bite is paired with stunning visual aesthetics that transform dining into a sensory experience. And then, the grand finale: chocolate profiteroles, served tableside with a flourish. Hot sauce, poured from a grandma’s copper pot, like a potion of pure joy. Pétron, the wine whisperer, pulls magnums from his secret stash, adding a cheeky "little something" with the coffee. The crowd? Young, stylish, obsessed. Pétron is not just a restaurateur; he's an artist. Menus: EUR 23 (lunch, weekdays). À la carte: EUR 35-45. Open daily 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm. G.M LORETTE: 9, rue Saint-Lazare, 75009 Paris PHONE: +33 1 42 06 94 98 AU PETIT RICHE (***): Stepping into Au Petit Riche is akin to turning back the pages of Parisian history. This Parisian Palimpsest is a captivating tableau. A Balzacian bistro interwoven with the quintessential charm of a Parisian brasserie. The year 1854 is etched into its very fabric: from the ornate  stuccowork
and shimmering mirrors, to the resplendent mosaic floors and the grand
sweep of the entrance counter. Ceilings ascend and descend,
creating a play of light and shadow, while the intimate salons whisper
of hushed conversations, reminiscent of Venice's Café Florian. A
revitalised team now graces the floor, adding a contemporary flourish
to this venerable institution.A jewel in the crown of the Lameloise family (proprietors of the illustrious Brasserie Georges near Lyon Perrache station), it possesses the aura of a cherished heirloom, lovingly restored and polished. The culinary renaissance is orchestrated by the youthful Uruguayan chef, Juan Moncalvo, whose twelve-year sojourn at the discreetly chic Quai Voltaire has honed his craft. He breathes new life into classic French cuisine, imbuing each dish with a delicate touch and a profound respect for tradition. The menu is a symphony of flavours: Lentils from Berry mingle with the smoky notes of cured bacon, Burgundy Snails luxuriate in a fragrant bath of fine butter and parsley, and a Terrine of Duck Foie Gras is paired with the rustic charm of "Poirée Tapée" from Touraine. A vibrant Sea Bream Ceviche dances with a verdant Coriander Nage, while the robust flavours of a Pig's Tongue Terrine, prepared with time-honoured techniques yet possessing a modern sensibility, provide a delightful counterpoint. The daily catch is celebrated with dishes such as Sea Bream, its skin crisped to perfection, accompanied by a duo of pea preparations, or John Dory bathed in the subtle nuances of Loire wine. Traditional delights are not forgotten: the supremely tender Pike Quenelle à la Lyonnaise, napped in a light crustacean sauce, and the exquisitely delicate Calf's Head with Gribiche sauce, are both presented in their own cast-iron cocottes: a testament to culinary heritage! Jean-Paul Bruatto, the house sommelier, has curated a wine list that pays homage to the Loire Valley, showcasing exceptional vintages from Touraine and Berry. Among the treasures are the resplendent Pouilly-Fumé Terres de Caillottes from François-Xavier Barc "Les Complices de Loire" and the superb Chinon, a harmonious blend of fruit and oak, from Pascal Lambert "Le Chêne Vert" in Cravant-les-Coteaux. The grand finale is a selection of sweet temptations, each bearing the hallmark of timeless indulgence, often reimagined with a subtle contemporary twist. The Paris-Brest, transformed into a lighter version of small choux pastries, retains the intense flavour of hazelnuts, while the Lemon Meringue Pie, elegantly presented, provides a fitting culmination to this exquisite dining experience. Au Petit Riche is not merely a restaurant; it is a testament to the enduring allure of Parisian gastronomy, a harmonious blend of past and present. Menus: EUR 28 (lunch formula). EUR 34, and EUR 40 (including wines, water, coffee). A la carte: EUR 50-75. Open 12 pm - 2:30 pm, 7 pm - midnight. Sunday is closed. Annual closing: Mid-July-end of August. G.M AU PETIT RICHE: 25 rue Le Peletier, 75009 Paris PHONE: +33 1 47 70 68 68 E-MAIL: commercial@restaurant-aupetitriche.com Reviews of the best palace hotels & luxury
hotels in
Paris 
   |
classy
balance between “cuisine bourgeoise” and trendiness “ma non troppo”,
giving the priority to the simplest and most lavish ingredients, with a
flavor offsetting another.
definitely inferior in term of design, atmosphere, and
cuisine. Maybe
have we been impressed by the opulence of the dining-room? A bit less
authentic, compared with Shang Palace no window room (this is normally
how a five star restaurant should be on the Chinese standards), it
mixes a bit of Asian bling with a lot of French classicism: high
ceiling, wood-paneled
walls, precious silk curtains. It has the “Haute Couture” touch,
indeed. This
makes the Asian visitor feeling like in Paris...and French feeling like
in Asia. There are no restaurants like LiLi anywhere else in Paris and
the rest of the world.
on-request pick-up
from any place in Paris by a sumptuous Rolls Royce Phantom transforms
the gourmet in a Hollywood Oscar winner. A place for foodies, this
“bistro chic” version of a gastronomic restaurant is first of all the
gourmand annex to the Paris Stock-Exchange (patronized by the CAC 40
CEOs), and the theatre of the society life: where the rich and
famous mix up with classy tourists.
glossy
magazine. However, the service (unusually affable for such a superior
establishment),
the wines presented by Eric Mancio, the head sommelier (who has written
a number of guides on the subject), and above all the brilliant,
appealing
cuisine will soon have you feeling at home. 
one
of the few Michelin 1 star Asian restaurants in France.
Cantonese head-chef Frank Xu, a veteran of the industry from Shenzhen,
received this much sought after award in 2012; since, the Shang Palace
ranks atop the most visited restaurants in Paris “triangle of gold”. Xu
operates with two dozens of cooks in the kitchen: featuring key posts
like wok, barbecue and chopper experts, plus a gifted dim sum maker.
sought after tourist spots in Paris. Like the Eiffel
Tower or the Louvres,
it is given the cold shoulder by the Parisian who certainly consider it
as a tourist trap. It is not. Of course, the lavish dinning room,
designed by Garnier (architect of the Opera House), sounds like
Babylon: echoing a multiplicity of foreign languages. Asian and
American tourists just swear by this cafe, once visited by Emile Zola,
Guy de Maupassant, Sergei Diaghilev, and so many statesmen and movie
stars. 
"Grande Carte":
with the freshest
ingredients, and most sophisticated combinations of savors. Where
flavors,
spices and fresh herbs enrich meat and fish with a noble French origin
and prestigious labels. 
the
ground floor of the Drugstore Publicis: a luxurious, fashionable mall
dedicated to high end shopping and gastronomy, occupying a splendid
position on the Champs Elysées. Opposite the Arch of Triumph. In a the
heart of the posh and touristic 
grande
cuisine,
inspired
by the much regretted Joël, and implemented by his "compagnons", Axel
Manes, Eric Lecerf,
and Eric
Bouchenoire who alternately tend to the Atelier Etoile. A virtuoso
display! 
won
them ail over with his skills. Creativity, originality, sensitivity and
rigor are the everyday watchwords of this Breton trained by Kéréver,
Boyer, then Senderens, as he prepares dishes of breathtaking freshness
and vivacity. The lemon-infused sweet onion gratin,
the thousand-and-one-flavors
of the vegetable from the morning's harvest, the Chausey
island lobster
served thinly sliced and perfumed with Côtes-du-Jura wine and the Breton
monkfish with Orléans mustard are odes
to nature's
gifts from the Mayenne, Finistère, Côtes d'Armor and Ile-et-Vilaine
regions. Then, for the launch of the 1998 vintage Perrier Jouet Belle
Epoque: raw scallops in a saffron velouté of
zucchini
blossoms, beechwood-smoked
potato with white Côtes-du-Jura wine. The names are simple,
the
pleasures vast. If any doubts remain, sugar-coated young pigeon
with honey wine and the sweet-breads with licorice root
provide
dazzling proof. Finally, what can we say about the desserts, except
that
they too attain summits of refinement? The caramelized tomato
stuffed
"with twelve flavors" refreshed with an orange sauce or the classic
millefeuille offer moments of delight in this trove of
elegance and
serenity opposite the Rodin museum. 
Triangle”, this is with 
skillfully
reconciles tradition and modernity. Priority is given to produce, and
everything
here is a question of balance, as evinced by truffle and foie gras
macaroni. The Breton lobster in classic simmered
stew seasoned with
honey, chestnuts and rosemary is always a must, but turbot in a crust
of
black truffle, artichokes and green pea purée is today's true event. The
pigeon served with seasonal fruits and
vegetables is to cooking
what a Rembrandt is to painting, but you may prefer the milk-fed
veal
chops with lemon and ginger cream sauce. The chocolaté
soufflé
is splendid. The service is fully what you would expect from such a
noble
establishment, and the check reflects that magnificence. The
sommelier's
name is Antoine Petrus, which already gives food for thought. When the
weather is fine, the roof of the elegant dining room opens to the sky.
The effect is magical and never stales. 
of
the chefs at "his" Taillevent, a timeless (but not changeless)
restaurant.
Alain Solivérès, a creative craftsman who trained with Maximin,
Ducasse and Cirino, has planned a prix fixe that seems traditional on
first
sight. Only when it is explained by the master of the house do you
realize
that nothing could be further from the truth. This is confirmed when Sault
spelt wheat risotto with browned frog's legs or John
Dory fish
with olives arrive. The sunfîlled cuisine reaches its zenith with lamb
saddle in a reduction sauce seasoned with
regional wild herbs.
The desserts, such as the feuille à feuille, a
layered dessert
of three chocolates, or baba au rhum with
liquor-soaked raisins
seem a million years old but still topical. The wine list is endless
and
the setting—a Second Empire town house with contemporary art providing
interior decoration— exceptional, as is the service. The check rapidly
adds up, but this comes as no shock, since the restaurant is at the
peak
of its achievements. 
water,
the Tour remains. We paid our visit just after Michelin took away one
of
the restaurant's stars in a very well publicized move as chef
Jean-François
Sicallac was handing over the reins to his lieutenant, Stéphane
Haïssant, a vétéran of Guérard, Loiseau and Senderens,
before going to run the Coquille in Concarneau. We felt that the house
cuisine had never been more effective. Admittedly, no one visits the
Terrails'
establishment (which was already in vogue in the 16th century) in
search
of trendy dishes that will be out of date as soon as the latest fad has
peaked, but rather for a master class in a great, ambitious, classical
tradition. In fact, the little appetizers, with mustard beignets, and
vigorous
starters, such as médaillons of foie gras with a
sea urchin
cream sauce, silky pike quenelles with mushroom
duxelles, duck
with orange sauce served with crisp, twice-fried potato puffs
and spinach
gratin, whole veal kidneys cooked rare, garnished
with crayfish
and a Jura wine sauce and passion fruit and guava parfait
were actually
at the height of their powers. We might add that these marvels were a
part
of the lunchtime set menu, priced at a levelheaded EUR 70.
regulars
and first-time visitors with equal courtesy. In the kitchen, Alain
Pégouret,
who has worked with Joël Robuchon and Christian Constant, is at the
summit of his art, as shown by pan seared duck foie gras
that opens
the proceedings. Beneath a classical exterior, red mullet filet
seasoned with saffron, bone marrow and caramelized shallot sauce is an
exceptionally modem dish. The Corrèze veal flank steak,
simply
braised and presented with Swiss chard and a reduction sauce, is
congenial
and tasty, while hot soufflé perfumed with Anis de Ponrarlier
is a highly successful confection. Patrick Lair always provides good
advice
when the time comes to choose a wine. The price of ail this splendor is
reasonable, and there is a terrace for when the sun shines.
his
enthralled audience with oven-crisped langoustine
served in a citrus
olive oil emulsion sauce. Straying a little further from the beaten
path,
the concentré of assorted Belon and spéciales oysters
makes a succulent marine starter. Sobriety does not rule out a touch of
mischief, and the astute oven-crisped slices of filet of sole
acquire
a somewhat Jurassic flavor, prepared as they are with Jura wine. The
ingenious sautéed spiced suckling pig with gnocchi
and
semi-dried tomatoes
seems native to the land of Brittany and is toothsome to a fault. For
dessert, thin crisp dark chocolaté sheets with iced pistachio
milk
will have you swooning. The service is in the delicious style practiced
in bourgeois homes. The check climbs rather higher than Brittany's
unspectacular
Arrée Mountains, but without giving undue offence. 
which
is no bad thing. This genius of flavors has always been a mine of
ideas, constantly revising the thousand and one dishes he invents and
his ways of presenting them. The aim here is innovation as well as
originality Thrill to the exhilarating millefeuille with arugula
whipped cream seasoned with spring onion jus, the speck ham and
peppered mint with cherry juice, the golden Bresse liver gateau with
glazed crayfish nage seasoned with Pouilly-Fuissé accompanied by
Perthius asparagus tips, new onions, and Menton lemon paste. Gasp at
the daring langoustines with a green mango tartare and crunchy sheet of
nougatine and mustard currant syrup that are pan-fried with “Terre de
Sienne” spices, served with a broth foam and a slice of black
radish-chilled consommé dusted with carob powder The performance is not
over yet. We applaud as the curtain rises on rack of Lozere lamb,
roasted and poached with oregano, served with crisped fresh herbs and
swiss chard enrobed with pan juices, cloves of garlic, shallots, and
eggplant and chill-seasoned Madagascar jumbo shrimp cooked with prune
eau-de-vie, grilled medallions of lamb with rich lamb sauce, zuchinni
flowers, and cold reduction sauce as a condiment. Barely a moment to
recover and Pierre Gagnaire's grand finale is with us: nine desserts
inspired by French pâtisserie, made with seasonal fruit, lightly
sugared confections, and chocolates. The service is perfection itself,
including the choice of wines, which can be left unreservedly to
Raphaël Huet. However, such prodigies come at a price. 
by large
windows,
pop-style pictures of dahlias over the walls, and an open kitchen, the
slightly kitch place still provides a fine dining environment
to
the Parisian society and first class travellers alike.
cuisine”,
updated so often that what we experienced yesterday couldn't be served
tomorrow. Alexandre Auger, trained at “Dali” by Michelin star chef
Yannick Alleno, before working at Victoria 1836, is inspired by the
seasons: improvising Blossom's offer according to the freshness and
quality of the ingredients. Some call his cuisine “vegan”: which
sounds eggagerated, though he actually puts vegetables in the center of
his cuisine. 
a
perfectly steady rhythm like a marathon runner. His cuisine delights
his preppy clientele, for whom he products ever more imaginative
dishes. He plays ingeniously on the changing seasons, offers a very
personal take on the hunting season when autumn comes, and prepares
seafood with infinite constancy. His hand-chopped langoustine meat,
lightly seared on the grill, is a festival of marine flavors that
explode on the tongue. The large turbot with spices, for two. is a
simple, yet exceptionally tasty dish. 