
The Best Gastronomic Restaurants in Paris 2023
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EPICURE
(LE
BRISTOL) (Eric Frechon) (*****L): With
three Michelin star, this is one of the top five hotel restaurants in
Paris.
Chef Eric Frechon, "Meilleur Ouvrier de
France" 1993
(=Best French Handicraftsman) award for culinary art, renews thrice a
year
his "Grande Carte":
with the freshest
ingredients, and most sophisticated combinations of savors. Where
flavors,
spices and fresh herbs enrich meat and fish with a noble French origin
and prestigious labels.
Visiting
the "Grande Carte" sounds a temptation. Our "Homard
Breton",
blue lobster from Brittany (considered the best in the world), served
with
curried cucumber, milded by a generous touch of coconut milk, was
aristocratic.
Great texture, showing a perfect freshness. Great taste. Somehow
influenced
by the royal Thai cuisine. Well worth its EUR 69, this is a must! It is
also available under a second, very attractive version: beech wood
smoked,
with peas mousseline, and lobster heads infused in wild mushroom
juice...
EUR 95; and well worth this price. A hard to forget delicacy.
Alternatively,
we would like to recommend the "Tourteau de Roscoff" (EUR
58): king
crab from Brittany, served with pressed tomato, avocado flesh, and a
divine
tarragon infused coral. Or the "Langoustines de
Guilvinec": served
in a generous portion, they have been cautiously roasted with citrus
thyme,
onions and mango jam, then perfumed with a light citrus juice (EUR 80).
Caviar is never very imaginative; except in Le Bristol: we had our "Osetra
from the Caspian Sea" (EUR 98), with shellfish stock and sea
lettuce,
served with a cauliflower mousse. The association of the imperial
caviar
with the working class cauliflower was amazingly surprising: inventive,
and actually appealing to the most spoiled palate. Of course one could
hardly miss the "Macaronis Truffés" (EUR
55): Macaroni
stuffed with artichoke, duck liver, gratinated with aged Parmesan: a
specialty
which made Eric Frechon world famous. Delicious with a glass of
Champagne,
those appetizers could also be much -not to say more!- enjoyed with a
well
chilled white wine. Like this "Condrieu 2002, Les Terrasses
de l'Empire,
Domaine Georges Vernays" which pleased our palate very much
during
our previous visit. Or with this wonderful, fragrant white "Sancerre,
Le Chêne Marchand 2002" (EUR 50) that we enjoyed during our
last
inspection.
Both
wines
perfectly matched the fish we ordered as a main course. Our "Saint-Pierre
du Petit Bateau" (John Dory fish), with pickled lemon,
sautéed
squid and zucchini, mildly perfumed with precious aromatic sweet pepper
from Espelette, was well worth the visit. A large portion goes for EUR
62. Alternatively, try the succulent "Bass from the Isle of
Yeu"
(EUR 85), smoothened with an oyster tartar, accompanied with charlotte
potatoes mashed with flat leaves parsley juice. Meat is also served
very
generously. Like the "Poitrine de Cochon Fermier"
(Belly of Pork)
(EUR 60) or the "Barbecued Country Bacon" (EUR
61), roasted
charlotte, herbs salad, with mustard seeds extracts : Eric
Frechon
likes to introduce so called "proletarian" -we
would say: "bistro"-
products (pork, but also whiting or "Calf's Head": the most surprising
in Paris, presented rolled, slightly crunchy, and spiced with capers
and...
anchovies!) to an elitist clientele of rich gourmets, familiarized with
caviar and truffle. A risky, but successful game: the result comes
perfect.
Our pork was brought to our table on a trolley, still smocking over the
gridiron, served with purple artichokes steamed with mustard leaves.
Astonishingly
not that fat, juicy and ideally spiced, we would like to recommend it
to
those with a hearty appetite. The "Filet d'Agneau de
l'Aveyron"
(Fillet of Lamb) is a good alternative: cooked with fresh herbs, almost
melting under our tongue, it came into our plate with a delicious
accompaniment:
garlic croquettes, and zucchini jam ideally balanced with the fragrant
essences of olive and basil (EUR 59). Or the "Suckling Veal
Sweetbreads"
(EUR 79), braised with dried fennel, carrots with gingerbread and
lemon,
and its cooking juice: a delicacy. We had it all with a "Saumur
Rouge
2001, Foucault, Domaine du Collier, La Ripaille": pulpy,
fruity, pleasant
and easy to drink. Good value also (EUR 60).
We
have
been too often disappointed by deserts, in those ritzy palace hotel
restaurants.
Which was not the case at Epicure. Assisted by a remarkable pastry
cook
(Laurent Jeannin, well trained in the hotels Crillon and George V),
Eric
Frechon brought to his menu splendid specialties. We took the classic,
chic and very Parisian "Soufflé Chaud au Grand Marnier, Cuvée
du Cent Cinquantenaire": a warm soufflé, precious vintage
Grand Marnier flavoured, with orange and lemon sorbet, "Pain
de Gênes"
(sweet Italian Ginger Bread). At EUR 25, you cannot miss it, indeed. We
can also recommend the "Abricots rôtis au Lait d'Amande"
(EUR
22): roasted apricots, with almond milk, crumble, hot chocolate, and
Amaretto
ice-cream. Succulent. Not available all year long, "La Petite
Gaufre
aux Fraises des Bois" (Wild Strawberry Waffle), is divinely
light.
Those looking for absolute originality can order the "Fresh
Fruits Sorbet"
(EUR 20), very classical at first sight, with its fresh milk
and cream
scoops, and blond meringue... but served on a nitrogen cloud bubbling
and fumigating from bellow the cup. Sometimes, El Bulli and his
alchemist
influence is not far away from the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré...
Note
that
the bread is so wonderful at Epicure, that it is exported as far
away
as... the Royal Palace in Bangkok! The selection which came to our
table
is the richest we have seen anywhere in Paris. Try that one with
natural
sea salt... unforgettable.
Last
but
not least, we would like to mention -and warmly recommend- the world
famous "Poularde de Bresse au vin de Château Châlon, cuite en
Vessie"
(Hen Chicken from the Bresse): honoring the much awarded AOC
Bresse
chicken. This is, together with the blue lobster and the "Macaronis
Truffés", the highlights of a prestigious
selection. It
comes cooked in a bladder (the essence of the steamed wine make it so
tender,
so tasty, so... unique!), with crayfish, variety meats and actually
royal
black truffle. Superlative! The "Poularde" is the most expensive meal,
at EUR 210 (for two peoples); but who minds the price at Le Bristol?!
Moreover
when comes the wine: Le Bristol has one of the best wine cellars in
France,
with exquisite and rare Pomerol Pétrus 1953, Château
Yquem 1982, Corton Charlemagne 1992 and
many others which are
not systematically grands crus but tasty and
sometime unforgettable
regional wines. With more than 30,000 bottles, it is impossible not to
please one's personal taste and budget: the friendly and extremely
professional
sommelier, Marco Pelletier, is a great adviser for those secret wines
fitting
all purses and palates. Conclude your dinner with a Louis XIII
or,
good value for money at EUR 55, with a glass of Bas Armagnac
Laberdolive
1962: a pure marvel. Simply great with a Partagas Lusitania
or a Montecristo
N°2: a repressive French law bans this
gourmet pleasure
in public places, including five star restaurants, but smoking it
remains
possible in the hotel garden.
We
would only like to claim on one subject, related to
nostalgy: Le
Bristol traditionally operated two dining rooms for its gastronomic
restaurant, depending on the season. We did love the
Winter
Restaurant: plush, ritzy, just splendid, operating from November until
April in an oval room that was, in the XIXth century, Jules de
Castellane's
private theater. It was adorned with magnificent Regency hand-carved
woodworking
in Hungarian oak. Its glass roof was highlighted with gold leaf, and
set
off by panels painted by Gustave-Louis Jaulmes that festooned the
Pleyel
room of the Chaillot palace. A magnificent XVIIIth century tapestry
from
the Lille Manufacture completed the decor, enriched
by
crystal chandeliers and a unique game table by Trehern. Such
a
splendor has been turned into a reception room by the new management:
which is a pity. Though Epicure opens to the largest hotel garden
existing
in the capital, making you feel away
from
Paris stressing life, the museum-like winter restaurant was so
capturing and so "grande époque"! We miss it...
Dress code smart casual.
G.M
EPICURE
(at HOTEL
LE BRISTOL ):
112, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 53 43 43
00
FACSIMILE:(+33-1) 53 43 43 01
E-MAIL:
resa@hotel-bristol.com
L'OISEAU BLANC (*****L): The glass-roof-topped dining room, with a view on the
Eiffel Tower, or the breezy panoramic summer terrace, would be enough
to fascinate any spoiled tourist. The service, beating many
Michelin-star restaurants, would please a king. The on-request pick-up
from any place in Paris by a sumptuous Rolls Royce Phantom transforms
the gourmet in a Hollywood Oscar winner. A place for foodies, this
“bistro chic” version of a gastronomic restaurant is first of all the
gourmand annex to the Paris Stock-Exchange (patronized by the CAC 40
CEOs), and the theatre of the society life: where the rich and
famous mix up with classy tourists.
We had lunch at L’Oiseau Blanc not for the panorama, but guided by
Sidney Redel's reputation: this young and brilliant Alsatian chef
assisted Pierre Gagnaire
during not
less than nine years, before flying
away to avenue Kleber. A nice landing in the ultra-luxurious Hotel Peninsula Paris,
recently opened with all the refinements and extras to please the geek
jet-setters. Gastronomy couldn’t be missed in a five-star palace hotel
tailored-made for a demanding clientele from Asia or the Middle-East,
featuring also naturally elegant Parisians patronizing the bars
(including a nice cigar-lounge) and the restaurants. Sidney came with 2
Michelin-star in hand, awarded at Les Airelles (Courchevel). He
likes to use the best ingredients ever for a brilliant cuisine still
quite influenced by Gagnaire.
Visiting L’Oiseau Blanc made us feel like flying first class: we
started with a flute of “Champagne Bérêche & Fils, Brut Réserve, Le
Craon de Ludes” (EUR 22), produced in the green, pollution-free hills
not far from Reims. Thanks God, our amuse-bouche wasn’t a “verine” but
a memorable bio-sausage, sliced with ultra-generous portions of black
truffle. What a treat! This was a smooth take-off for a two hours
flight over what French top-gastronomy can offer.
If the “Sea-urchin and Whisky Bisque, Pearl Barley and Red Endive” was
superposing too many complex combinations of savors, aggressively
covered by the Whisky, we would return to L’Oiseau Blanc just for the
ideally textured and tasty “Green Mallemort Aparagus, with Lardo di
Colonnata, Poached Egg, Nettle Coulis with Orange Chocolate”. This
might again look over-sophisticated , but tasted naturally so simple
and delicate. Alternatively, try the much bistro “Smoked Salmon from
Scotland, with Red Beets Carpaccio and Comté 2012”. We paired our
appetizers with one glass of refreshing white Burgundy “Meursault Les
Criots, Domaine Buisson-Battault 2013” (EUR 21). Developing a beautiful
bouquet with flowers, fresh citrus, minerals and a light touch of oak,
it was still young, but with not so much acidity.
As a main dish, don’t hesitate and order “Roasted Saint-Jacques, Smoked
Cauliflower Cream, Jabugo Iberic Ham & Périgord Black Truffles ”
(we actually visited the restaurant in February: the high season for
truffles): a delicacy and a signature dish.
Light, simple,
somehow provincial but definitely succulent, we would also recommend
“High-Seas Whiting and Razor Clams”, stewed with leeks, celery and
crispy melon. We paired both dishes with mythic and opulent “Vougeot
Ier Cru, Clos Blanc de Vougeot, Domaine de la Vougeraie 2012” (EUR 43
by the glass).
If you prefer meat, we would warmly advise “Pyrenean Lamb, Le Puy Green
Lentils AOP, and Chorizo”: light and palatable, this “bistronomic”
specialty by Sidney Redel was a pretext to order one glass of “Pomerol,
Château Lafleur-Gazin 2011” (EUR 25), produced a stone’s throw from the
legendary Petrus Vineyards. Boosting earthy black cherry with soft
textures, medium body and a sweet, round cherry-filled finish. A
memorable Pomerol, indeed!
There is a signature dessert called “L’Envol” (=take-off), which
everyone order at least for a picture (it represents a plane
propeller). Creamy, it mixes chocolate biscuit, mango / passion fruit
sherbet, and hazelnuts “streusel” (crumbly topping of flour, butter,
and sugar). Paired by the professional and charming “sommelière” with a
glass of “Tokay, Chateau de Sarospatak, 3 Puttonyos 2011” (EUR 55 / 0.5
l): a divine nectar from Hungary, as sweet as honey, this was a great
landing.
The bill, excluding
beverage, is surprisingly affordable. Appetizer + main dish / or main
dish + dessert was EUR 57 in winter 2016. Appetizer + main dish +
dessert: EUR 69.
This fantastic Oiseau Blanc, certainly one of the best palace-hotel
restaurants in Paris, flew us to the Moon; though it still has not
reached
the stars... at least by the tortuous Michelin standards.
Open 12–2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm
G.M
L'OISEAU
BLANC (Hotel
Peninsula Paris): 19 Avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris, France
PHONE: (+33-1) 58 12 67 30
E-MAIL:
oiseaublancppr@peninsula.com
LILI
(*****L): More
than the «bistro-chic» L'Oiseau
Blanc,
this is The Peninsula Hotel proclaimed gastronomic restaurant and,
undoubtedly, the best Chinese fine-dining option in Paris. A title
disputed with the Shang Palace
(at
Shangri-La Hotel),
which we found definitely inferior in term of design, atmosphere, and
cuisine. Maybe
have we been impressed by the opulence of the dining-room? A bit less
authentic, compared with Shang Palace no window room (this is normally
how a five star restaurant should be on the Chinese standards), it
mixes a bit of Asian bling with a lot of French classicism: high
ceiling, wood-paneled
walls, precious silk curtains. It has the “Haute Couture” touch,
indeed. This
makes the Asian visitor feeling like in Paris...and French feeling like
in Asia. There are no restaurants like LiLi anywhere else in Paris and
the rest of the world.
The same concept has been applied to the cuisine, which has no
Michelin-star (blame it on the inspectors!), but plenty of much more
valuable stars awarded by the guests.
What really makes the difference, and what actually impressed us, is
the alliance of the richest French ingredients to provide the best of
Asian gastronomy. Executive Chef Dicky To, from Hong-Kong, is an
alchemist: using the treasures of the French terroir, he caters to his
guests with a 100% truly Cantonese cuisine... plus this little extra in
term of taste and texture, which we found nowhere else in the world.
Moreover, we did appreciate the wine pairing experience. Exceptional in
an Asian restaurant, it has the level of a three-Michelin star. We know
this for spending a great part of our life in Asia: it's attempting the
impossible to pair richly spiced dishes with good wine. Moreover when
those spices are named chili, ginger, or curry. Head sommelier Nicolas
Charrière
took up the challenge brilliantly. One of the reasons which will
take us back to LiLi is actually his expert wine pairing and Epicurian
humour.
Lunch or dinner? We hesitated in making it cheaper and faster, with the
fairly priced EUR 52 Bento-Style Lunch Set Menu (served from Tuesday to
Friday); or much more glamorous in the mesmerizing,
somehow magic evening atmosphere. We opted for the second option,
allowing more time for the gastronomic experience. We don't regret it.
The level of service was the same compared with Epicure
at Hotel Le
Bristol, or Taillevent. With that special, so refined oriental
touch.
We liked the parsimonious, carefully measured light, providing a nice
romantic touch which reaches a climax when, like us, you are lucky
enough to sit in
the discreet VIP boxes located just right from the entrance. We felt
totally
secluded from the main dining-room, which was full the evening of our
visit.
We skipped the aperitif, preferring one glass of Champagne
“Pierre Péters, Cuvée de Réserve , Blanc de Blancs Brut”. Awarded 91
points by “Wine Advocate-Parker”, this a bit confidential
“Propriétaire-Récoltant”, based in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, elaborates one
of the finest Brut. At EUR 26€ by the glass, that was our first good
surprise at LiLi. It ideally paired “Shredded Bresse Chicken and
Jellyfish Salad, with Chinese Radish in Sesame Sauce” (EUR 30). We well
noticed the very unique aroma and texture of the Bresse Chicken. Second
good surprise: the portions were generous, actually responding to the
expectation from the Asian guests. Alternatively, we could also
recommend
“Challans Poultry Kung Pao” (EUR 40), offering a 3D experience in
term of taste, texture, and setting into the plate. This is a signature
dish, much ordered by
the regular patrons (some of them may visit LiLi up to three times per
week!).
We actually wished to start with Dim Sum. But those succulent dumplings
are not served in the evening, conforming to the tradition: including
them in all meals, from breakfast until tea-time, excluding dinner. But
the charming and anticipating restaurant manager, Fanny Vale, who spent
a great part of her professional life in
Asia, made an exception just for us! We could enjoy the chef's
green and saffron Dim Sum, featuring again local products like ceps and
crunchy wild shrimps. Chinese cuisine features mushrooms a lot; but
that was the first time that we had ceps in our dumplings, stylishly
served in a silver steam-basket. The selection proposed at lunchtime
costs EUR 38.
More flavor and more exciting textures, with the delicately spicy
“French Obsiblues Prawns” (EUR 48), which were one of our preferred
dishes. It
made us feeling like traveling in the direction to the South of China,
with one step into Thailand
where spices are used melodiously, without any “faux pas”. Which was
the case at LiLi. The wine pairing was ad hoc, with
“Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clos du Mont Olivet, Joseph Sabon”. We hadn't drunk
“Chateauneuf-du-Pape” “Blanc” for ages, and almost forgot the existence
of this wine of exception more
interesting that Sancerre when it comes to pair it with the complex
combination of spicy/fishy flavors.
We were mostly done, but couldn't resist the... irresistible: “Sautéed
Jasmine Rice with Lacquered Goose Liver and Aveyron Beef” (EUR 45€).
That was the highlight of our dinner.
It was not possible to skip some sweets though...we like all in the
Chinese cuisine, except the usually disappointing desserts. This was
not the case at LiLi, where they have been totally thought for a French
palate. Chef To's very bistro “Crème Brûlée” was exceptional; but
the must was “Mango Pudding Hong Kong Style”, boosting such a yummy
fragrance and soft texture, paired with one glass of sweet like honey
Hungarian “Tokaji
Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Disznókó, 2008” (EUR 22€). Quite
forgotten in France since decades, Tokaji is still a trend at the
Peninsula (we
experienced it at L'Oiseau Blanc also). Five “Puttonyos” means
that this late harvest wine has got the highest degree of maturated
grape with its natural sugar. It was tasting like a dessert too!
Everything went at its highest at LiLi, and we couldn't recommend more
this exceptional - we could say essential!- restaurants, where the
expert gourmet knowing Chinese cuisine like
his right hand will discover new savours.
Dress code smart casual. Open for lunch: 12:00 – 2:30pm. Dinner: 7:00pm
- 10:30pm (11:00pm on Thursday, Friday and Saturday). Closed on Sunday
and Monday.
G.M
LILI
(PENINSULA HOTEL): 19, avenue Kléber - 75116 Paris
PHONE: +33 1 58 12 67 50
E-MAIL:
lilippr@peninsula.com
L'ARÔME (THOMAS
BOULLAULT)
(*****L):
How comes we didn't know this exquisite restaurant located
not far from the Champs Elysées, and his enthusiastic chef, one Michelin-star
since 2009? Thanks to our friend,
influent food writer Gilles
Pudlowski, we lately
“discovered” Thomas
Boullault's generous and creative cuisine, inspired
a lot by his origins (Sologne, in the centre of France) and a bit by
Escoffier. Providing a classy
balance between “cuisine bourgeoise” and trendiness “ma non troppo”,
giving the priority to the simplest and most lavish ingredients, with a
flavor offsetting another.
We gave Boullault carte blanche, and this resulted in the best lunch
enjoyed in Paris this year. The beige and neutral design of the dining
room incites the guest to concentrate on his plate, but also on the
ballet of the brigade inside the open-cuisine. With the chef going from
and to the cuisine, looking for contact with the guests (lots of them
are regular patrons), and begging for their objective feedback. Acting
like an “aubergiste”, he makes the chic L'Arôme looks like a bit of a
canteen for the happy few.
Our favorite from this first experience was all picked up from the
three Autumn / Winter 2019 menus Arôme (EUR 109),
Signature (EUR 139),
and Carte Blanche (EUR 159).
After enjoying a trio of refined “Amuses-Bouche” (our preferred was
“Duck Foie Gras Tartlet & Passion Fruit”), we started with one of
the highlights: “Bream “Ikéjim” Carpaccio with Kalamansi Vinegar”,
Hazelnuts and Bitter Salad. Sommelier Renaud
Laurent paired this
inventive and refreshing dish with “Bandol, Domaine Tempier, Plan du
Castellet, Peyraud, 2018”, defining the identity of the appellation
with a very unique nose and feminine flavors.
“Beechwood smocked Mashed Potatoes with Caviar Kaviari”, Seaweeds
Butter and Sour Cream, was a peak of ecstasy. You can't make a simpler
dish, as well as a better one. We shall come back just to order it
again, with one glass of “Chablis 1er Cru, Troesmes, Isabelle &
Denis Pommier, 2016” emanating a distinctive bouquet with scents
of flint, white flowers and a touch of orange pith. Refreshing, and
reflecting ad hoc the iodized echoes of the caviar.
“Scallops with White Truffles from Alba”, Pasta Risotto (Riso), aged
Mimolette Cheese Flakes, and Arbois wine emulsion. A firework of
fragrances, slightly dominated by the unmatched perfume of the thinly
sliced white truffle. Riso brought a pleasant texture to this refined
dish, paired with well balanced and elegant “Arbois Savagnin, Vieilles
Vignes, 2014, Domaine Guillot”. The first French AOC (since 1936), this
wine
from the “fertile land”, with a dominance of yellow fruit, marries
astonishingly well with the complex essence of the white truffle.
“Beef and Blue Lobster Surf & Turf” with Choron Sauce, Cabbage,
Ginger and “Anna” Potatoes, Lobster Claws Ravioli, with Lobster and
smoky Black Tea Sauce, was successful alchemy. Paired with “Hérault,
Domaine de la Grange des Pères, Vaillé, 2012” (EUR 49 by the glass). A
“grand vin”, some even call it a “cult wine”. Still a bit young, yet
developing medium to full-bodied richness, showing pepper and sweet
dark fruit, with plenty of ripe tannins.
The so terroir “Scottish Grouse & Sologne Mallard Hunter Pie”, with
Chard Leaves, Foie Gras, Diced Porcini Mushrooms, came with a
surprising “Aberlour 10 Years” whiskey sauce, making the wine pairing a
bit complicated. Yet, high rated “Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Les
Beaux-Monts, 2014, Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils” ” did the job
splendidly. Raised on a small, 2 hectares property, this complex and
spicy wine, with a long finish, was a treat which could perfectly pair
some of the ripened cheese by Martine Dubois, available at EUR 22 per
person; we skipped it to enjoy a euphoric dessert: “Soft Mirabelle
Plums and Juniper Berries”, caramelized thin Vanilla Puff-Pastry,
roasted Hazelnut, Mirabelle Plums Eau-de-Vie Foam. This allowed us to
discover “Muscat du Cap Corse, 2016, Domaine Giudicelli”. Entertaining
to the palate, this became, thanks to L'Arôme, one of our favorite wine
for dessert with the sweeter and heavier Hungarian Tokay 4 or 5
Puttonyios.
Dress code smart casual.
Open 12PM – 2PM (lunch)
and 7:30PM – 9:45PM.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
G.M
L'ARÔME: 3 Rue
Saint-Philippe du
Roule, 75008 Paris, France
PHONE: +33 1 42 25 55 98
E-MAIL: contact@larome.fr
GUY
SAVOY (*****L): The
man
is in the image of
his restaurant: charming and never boastful. At Guy Savoy's,
the
contemporary decor designed by Wilmotte, the Bram Van Velde
and Daniel
Humair paintings and the African statuettes seem to have stepped from
the
pages of a glossy
magazine. However, the service (unusually affable for such a superior
establishment),
the wines presented by Eric Mancio, the head sommelier (who has written
a number of guides on the subject), and above all the brilliant,
appealing
cuisine will soon have you feeling at home.
Behind
the
apparent simplicity lies a love—a passion—for shrewdly
prepared produce.
This results in short preparations with precise flavors: sharp,
absolutely
flawless and always surprisingly authentic. Whether this is your first
or umpteenth visit, the signature dishes are extraordinary creations.
The truffled artichoke soup with mushroom and truffle-seasoned
brioche, oysters over an iced seafood broth, foie
gras with salt, grilled sea bass seasoned
with mild spices and turbot in egg
salad and in soup express the qualities of the vegetable,
shellfish
or fish, refusing to allow themselves to be sidetracked. These examples
of a true taste and its hidden qualities are also expressed by the pan-fried
veal sweet-breads with truffled potato turnovers and Bresse
chicken
with lemon-grass cream sauce and lightly grilled vegetables. The
subtle,
precise desserts play from the same score, like the "déclinaison
de fraises" (variations on the strawberry theme), the
fabulous crème
"minute", served with green apple jus, a masterpiece we found
perfectly
copied in the restaurant of three-star Londoner Gordon Ramsay, or chocolate
spiced with tonka beans. Brilliant!
What
more
can we add? Guy Savoy is clearly one of the subtle maestros of our
day.
Prix
fixe:
EUR 230, EUR 285. A la carte: EUR 200.
Closed
Saturday
lunch, Sunday, Monday, 1 week from Christmas-New Year's, August. Open
until
10:30 PM.
G.P
GUY
SAVOY: 18, rue Troyon, 75017 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 43 80 36 22.
FACSIMILE: (+33-1) 46
22 43 09
E-MAIL:
reserv@guysavoy.com
L'ATELIER
DE JOËL ROBUCHON ETOILE (*****L): With
a total of 25 Michelin Guide stars –the most of any chef in the world-
including 1 Michelin-star awarded in the Red Guide 2023 edition to
this well established outlet opened almost one
decade ago, the late Robuchon used to be referred as the “Chef of the
Century”. L'Atelier Etoile, stands in the
ground floor of the Drugstore Publicis: a luxurious, fashionable mall
dedicated to high end shopping and gastronomy, occupying a splendid
position on the Champs Elysées. Opposite the Arch of Triumph. In a the
heart of the posh and touristic “Triangle of Gold”.
The
relatively large dinning room, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, has been
divided into two sections. Those who like intimacy will go straight to
one of the few tables, in the back of the room. Those coming for a a
real Robuchon experience will definitely prefer to seat at the U-shaped
bar surrounding the sparkling open-kitchen: overlooking the meal
preparation by an extremely friendly “brigade” managed by Sylvain
Forbice. Operating a well
orchestrated ballet, serving quickly and graciously the demanding
patrons. We didn't feel much difference compared with the other Atelier
(8 outlets are operating around the world) which we already visited in
Macau and Hong
Kong. A
trendy, attractively designed salon welcoming the gourmet society,
L'Atelier Etoile is a mix of French yuppies behaving like returning
visitors, and excited Asian and American tourists, so happy to make it
at Robuchon... with their camera in hand. Some Peoples and familiar
faces popped up from time to time. No doubt: this new Atelier
is
already the place to see and be seen!
A
dinner at L'Atelier always starts with a glass of Champagne. We had
Bruno
Paillard during our previous visit, a few months ago. Well chilled,
displaying a deep color and a steady stream of
pin-prick bubbles across the glass, this is used to be Robuchon's
favorite
brand. Developping much savour and quite a good
length in mouth. That time we took one flute of Veuve Cliquot Brut (EUR
25
by the glass). It was fine with our light and inventive amuse-bouche (“Foie
Gras Cream, Served with Red Sweet Wine Reduction
and Parmesan Foam” )
and our signature starter, available from the new vegetarian “Food & Life” 7 courses menu at EUR 99: a
refreshing “Beetroots
Tartare, Flavored with Granny Smith Apple topped with Green Mustard
Sherbet”
(EUR 37). Alternatively we would recommend the classy “Caviar Imperial”
(EUR 88 per 50gr): a superior, subtle, not over salted French “Solenska” caviar
from Sologne. Still confidential, hard to find on the market, this
local grey gold is highly praised by the best chefs
in Paris. We
loved it! It is alternatively yummy combined with soft-boiled egg
(a Robuchon's classic and classy speciality).
Another signature,
the “French Quail from
Villard Les Dombes, stuffed with Foie Gras”
(EUR 33), sweetly caramelised with soja and honey, served with a double
portion of Robuchon's legendary mashed potatoes, was simply
brilliant, paired with one glass of aristocratic Tuscan “Tenuta
San Guido Sassicaia, Bolgheri 2010” (EUR 60 by the glass). Powerful but graceful, this is one
of the most collectible Italian wines.
Alternatively, fish
lovers will like the “Seared
Scallops served on Chicory Salad with Curcuma Vinaigrette and shaved
Alba White Truffles” (EUR 52). A delicacy, amazingly light
and palatable; though the weak
fragrance of the first white truffles of the Autumn was much covered by
the exquisite vinaigrette. Assisted by
brilliant “companions”,
like Fabien François and the young and charming Mélanie Serre, acting
in the kitchen, this is a
pure example of the creativity and the genius displayed in that
category of restaurants. Words are missing to describe the
sophistication of some dishes done to be tasted; not to be
literalized. Head sommelier Alessio Delfino paired it with
invigoring, yet sumptuous, “Condrieu, Côte Chatillon,
Domaine
Bonnefond 2010” (EUR 30 by the glass): a very herbal, aromatic wine
produced in a small bio vineyard from viognier white-wine
grape variety.
The
lacy display bouquet of charming fruit of a dense “Corton Charlemagne Grand
Cru 2012, Au
Pied du Mont Chauve” (EUR 58 by the glass), paired ad hoc
our mouth
watering “Pan-Fried Sole
Meunière Petit-Bateau”
(EUR 79). Classic and classy, the generous portion treats two persons
at ease!
“-Fromage
ou dessert?” (Cheese plate or dessert). We don't
like the question and, just like most of our compatriots, would
straightly reply “-Both!”. We got a “Ewe Tomme Cheese” (EUR
19) traditionally produced by the Benedictine monks of
Notre-Dame
de Belloc Abbey, in Normandy. Displaying a firm, dense, rich
and creamy texture, it surprisingly tasted little bit like burnt
caramel, and was accompanied by a black cherry jam.
A nice
bridge between the two savors, for a dish located half way between
cheese and dessert. But the icing on the cake was the chocolate
speciality which we chose from the rich desserts list. All go for only
EUR 20, which is a great offer, indeed. And particularly for
the “Warm Guanaja
Chocolate Soufflé & Bounty Ice Cream”:
made with Valhrona chocolate, this is a superb association
of savor and texture, presented in a an
opulent, artistically designed gilt plate. François
Benôt, the pastry chef, is assisted by brilliant lieutenants. Some of
them are Japanese; which explains the brilliant Asian touch and
precious display. We would long-haul fly to L'Atelier just for a
dessert!
With
an average bill of EUR 150 per person, a light and exciting “Food and
Life” menu at EUR 99 and a so
rich “Menu Découverte de Saison” at
EUR 179, L'Atelier is a great value for money
gourmet restaurant with a strong WOW factor, and one more successful
recipe by Joël Robuchon.
Dress code smart casual.
Open
everyday until midnight. Note well that booking is available for lunch,
from 11:30am till 12:30pm; and from 14:00pm till 3:30pm. Dinner :
18:30pm only. No booking possibility on other timing.
G.M
L'ATELIER DE JOËL
ROBUCHON ETOILE: 133 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris
PHONE: (+331)
47 23 75 75
E-MAIL:
resa@joel-robuchon.net
L'ATELIER
DE JOËL ROBUCHON SAINT GERMAIN (*****L): Black
granite,
red lacquer and Indian rose-wood, a direct view of the kitchen from the
bar and valet parking: Joël Robuchon's snack bar strays on the side
of chic. Needless to say, we are in the presence of grande
cuisine,
inspired
by the much regretted Joël, and implemented by his "compagnons", Axel
Manes, Eric Lecerf,
and Eric
Bouchenoire who alternately tend to the Atelier Etoile. A virtuoso
display! “Sautéed
Squid with Artichokes”
open the
proceedings, followed
by a “Mackerel
Tart”, “Deep-Fried
Whiting”, “Tuna
Belly”, “Eggs
with Caviar”, “Milk-Fed
Lamb From Pyrénées”,
all executed with tremendous proficiency. If you still have a little
room
left, the “Warm
Chartreuse Soufflé”
with pistachio
ice cream
(a house classic) will fill neatly. An impressive cellar of French,
Italian,
Spanish, Californian and Austral wines, a produce-oriented tasting menu
and a choice of small or standard portions a la carte ingeniously
complete
the range of this great restaurant's options.
Average bill for this
fabulous two
Michelin Star restaurant is EUR 150 - 200 up.
Dress code smart casual.
Open
daily
until 12 AM.
G.P
L'ATELIER
DE JOËL ROBUCHON: 5-7, rue Montalembert, 75007 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 42 22 56
56
FACSIMILE:(+33-1)
42 22 97 91
E-MAIL:
resa@joel-robuchon.net
L'ARPEGE
(Alain Passard) (*****L): Oblivious
to fashion
and its diktats, Alain Passard remains true to form, loyal to the
produce-based
cuisine that is close to his heart. It has been a long time since
critics
questioned the lack of red meat on his menu. This grandmaster of the
vegetable
has won
them ail over with his skills. Creativity, originality, sensitivity and
rigor are the everyday watchwords of this Breton trained by Kéréver,
Boyer, then Senderens, as he prepares dishes of breathtaking freshness
and vivacity. The lemon-infused sweet onion gratin,
the thousand-and-one-flavors
of the vegetable from the morning's harvest, the Chausey
island lobster
served thinly sliced and perfumed with Côtes-du-Jura wine and the Breton
monkfish with Orléans mustard are odes
to nature's
gifts from the Mayenne, Finistère, Côtes d'Armor and Ile-et-Vilaine
regions. Then, for the launch of the 1998 vintage Perrier Jouet Belle
Epoque: raw scallops in a saffron velouté of
zucchini
blossoms, beechwood-smoked
potato with white Côtes-du-Jura wine. The names are simple,
the
pleasures vast. If any doubts remain, sugar-coated young pigeon
with honey wine and the sweet-breads with licorice root
provide
dazzling proof. Finally, what can we say about the desserts, except
that
they too attain summits of refinement? The caramelized tomato
stuffed
"with twelve flavors" refreshed with an orange sauce or the classic
millefeuille offer moments of delight in this trove of
elegance and
serenity opposite the Rodin museum.
Prix
fixe:
EUR 130 (lunch), EUR 340 (dinner). A la carte: EUR 250.
Closed
Saturday/
Sunday. Open until 10:30 PM.
G.P
L'ARPEGE:
84, rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 45 51 47 33 FACSIMILE:(+33-1) 44
18 98 39
E-MAIL:
arpege.passard@wanadoo.fr
SUR MESURE
(*****L): Two Michelin star-holder Thierry Marx,
one of France most famous avant-garde chefs, actively develops his
molecular, exciting and sometimes puzzling cuisine “Sur Mesure” (hotel
Mandarin Oriental Paris). The white/cream design of the swanky dining
room is worth the visit. Marx likes to surprise the eyes, and tickle
the taste buds. This is a very personal opinion, but we found the place
too Zen: like designed for meditating, not for banqueting. Those
who come for a secret dinner will understand how strange it feels when
you can't share any intimate (or business) discussion with your
companion, or business partner. There is not much space between the
tables, and it doesn't' help...
That was our unique con. The rest of the experience was totally pro, as
it always used to be with Mandarin Oriental. The group is famous for
the cosmic quality of its F&B; and with Marx and his brilliant
brigade in the kitchen, the experience was scheduled for success.
With one of the best staff in Paris, Sur Mesure is indeed a
palace-hotel restaurant. We arrived before our guest and, immediately,
some newspapers have been presented to help us to kill time. The room
was almost full. Most of the guests were women, and relatively young
couples. We found it refreshing, compared with the other top-luxury
restaurants usually patronized by businessmen and mature gourmets.
Another particularity: maybe were we lucky the days of our two visits
to his restaurants at MO Paris, but Thierry Marx was here, in person. Lots of
Michelin-star chefs prefer to delegate to their sous-chef. This detail
does matter.
Very much influenced by Asia, his cuisine is refined, nicely colored
and textured (molecular "ma non-troppo"), served in tiny -we said
tiny!- portions. The amuse bouche could feed an anorexic model, not an
old school gastronome. But with the "Seven
Courses Lunch Menu",
we found the concept ideal. We started with a surprising “Structured
and Destructured Paella”, and “Soy & Oysters Risotto” with
Chanterelles Mushrooms. Marx likes soy, and his signature dish is
permanently featured on the menu. An alliance between two worlds and
continents: the neutral sweetness of soy meets the brute strength of
truffle and oyster. Same great impression -and concept- with the “Earth
& Sea Foie Gras / Smoked Eel”. A tailor made, “sur mesure”!,
pairing. We liked the more classic, yet classy, “Lacquered John Dory /
Potatoes from Noirmoutier & olives from Kalamata”, which was our
favorite dish. Fishy, Mediterranean, and finally more bistro than
“haute cuisine”. Yet delicious.
Those preferring meat as a main dish, should order “Veal in «Three
Ways» / Carrot & Rhubarb / Vinegar powder”: a successful, sweet and
sour alchemy. Thumbs up to the new generation of chefs re-discovering
rhubarb: such a magic ingredient! Bistro-chic again, Marx's
“Challans » Duckling / Raspberries & Onions, was succulent and
reflecting its Two-Michelin star.
As a dessert, we made it the Asian way, with “Sweet Bento”,
petits-fours, mousses, and other sweets inspired by Japan. It has a
feminine touch, and our Indochinese guest was on cloud nine...
Note that the warmly recommended “Seven Courses Lunch Menu” is served
from Tuesday to Friday only, and costs EUR 150. Including taxes. There
was no packaged wine pairing, though the ravishing and professional
“sommelière” managed a convenient selection of relatively affordable
wines. This resulted in a bill, for two, at approximately EUR 450.
Don't leave the “Sur Mesure” before a short visit to the washroom
covered in bright pink scales... Surely the most surprising in Paris,
in one of the most surprising restaurants in France... and therefore in
the world.
Dress code casual elegant.
Open for lunch, 12 – 2 pm (Tue – Sat), and dinner, 7:30 – 9:30 pm (Tue
– Sat).
G.M
SUR
MESURE (HOTEL MANDARIN
ORIENTAL PARIS):
251 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris
PHONE:
+33 (0)1 70 98 78 88
E-MAIL: mopar-info@mohg.com
CAMELIA (****L): This bistro-chic restaurant
at hotel
Mandarin Oriental Paris, is an ideal approach of Marx's
cuisine. The cool dining room opens to the Asian style
courtyard-garden. Though “Sur
Mesure” might
look more exciting and exclusive, we preferred our lunch
at Camélia. More casual, and
with a more
understandable mixture of textures and savours.
Already one of the
capital's top gastronomic restaurants, Camélia caters Marx basic rules
“Cooking, is for looking at, meditating on and eating”... and the
straight, business oriented “45 minutes – 45 Euros”. We must admit that
chef's philosophy materializes successfully in the plate. The “Open
Crab Ravioli, Turmeric, Purée of Fava Beans” has been obviously
inspired by the Chinese steamed raviolis “Dim Sum”, and
constitutes one of Marx's specialities you might find “à la carte” all
year long. Light and excellent, this was certainly the most original
dish on an apparently very classic offer. The mouth watering “Roasted
Pigeon, with Strawberry-infused Rhubarb” looked also well inspired,
thus we preferred to order a grilled “Sea Bream”, which was splendid
and came in a generous portion. Alternatively, it can be served as a
carpaccio, with pineapple and ginger. We had both courses and our
dessert -yummy Lemon Tart- with a glass of Champagne Bolinger Brut
Special Cuvée (EUR 24), and the total bill was approximately EUR 100.
More than 45 EUR and more than 45 minutes, as we took all time to enjoy
and relax; but with a globally positive impression which might gave us
the envy to visit this fine table again next time
we visit Paris.
Dress code casual elegant.
Open daily for breakfast, 7 – 11am, and lunch, 12:30 – 11:00 pm.
G.M
CAMELIA
(HOTEL MANDARIN
ORIENTAL PARIS):
251 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris
PHONE:
+33 (0)1 70 98 74 00
E-MAIL: mopar-info@mohg.com
MONTECITO (****L): This cool culinary haven occupies the ground floor of the Kimpton Saint Honoré Paris:
a five-star pet-friendly gem, where Parisian allure meets modern
comforts, situated a stone's throw from the iconic Opéra Garnier, rue
de la Paix, and the regal Place Vendôme.
Gastronomy and elegance converge in this trendy restaurant, nestled
within the expansive embrace of the hotel's glass canopy. A treasure
trove of exotic charm, transporting us to the sunny shores of
California, this cool eatery is helmed by the visionary chef Nicolas
Pastot: a maestro who honed his craft over a decade alongside the
esteemed Christophe Raoult at the Café de la Paix…
just across the boulevard. One small step for chef, one giant leap for
gastronomy: this dining haven ignites a symphony of flavors that
elevate Californian, New Age cuisine to the upper level, sprinkled with
playful Latin influences, tantalizing spices, and a celebration of
premium ingredients.
As if orchestrated by a gastronomic maestro, a team of young, cheerful
servers brings forth a medley of appetizers designed for communal
indulgence. Savoring Vegetable Spring Rolls brimming with the freshness
of carrots, leeks, mushrooms, ginger, and an ensemble of mint and
coriander dancing in harmony, reminds of the vibrant eateries in
Saigon. Lobster Rolls, a tribute to oceanic opulence, lovingly
ensconced within delicate brioche, are a signature dish still in our
memories. But the concerto doesn't stop there – behold the Tataki of
Salmon: adorned with a crispy duet of puffed rice and sesame, joined by
yellow pollock tacos nestled in a warm embrace of corn tortillas. It's
a crescendo of culinary mastery!
Every bite is a melodic journey that transports the palate to distant lands, orchestrating a dance of joy on our taste buds.
The Montecito Burger takes center stage: a virtuoso performance that
features pickled cornichons, a cheddar crescendo, and an opera of fresh
greens, all elevated by a crescendo of masterful seasoning. And who can
resist the allure of the San Francisco Cioppino? A culinary masterpiece
reminiscent of «bouillabaisse», this dish plays host to the rich duet
of monkfish cheeks, shrimp, mussels, langoustine «bisque», and zesty
yellow lemon. It's not just a dish – it's a culinary serenade.
As the final notes of this gastronomic play out, the dessert ensemble
takes the stage: each creation a perfect cadence of indulgence. From
the Pecan-Laden Cheesecake that sings with caramel and salted butter,
to the zesty Lemon Meringue Pie, every bite is a sweet crescendo that
leaves the senses dancing.
Even the libations are a symposium of pleasure. With a Rum and
Passion-fruit Cocktail, that's nothing short of liquid euphoria, and
the prestigious Perrier-Jouet «Blanc de Blanc»
champagne that sparkles like the finest notes of a menuet. And let's
not forget the splendid «Marsannay les Longeroies» by Jean Fournier: a
buttery and complex white wine, aged for 12 months in vats and in new
oak demi-muid barrels, that's not just sipped, but savored.
The price may be a high note, with Lunch Set Menus from EUR 39, Brunch
at EUR 78, a la carte at EUR 50 - 90. But for the culinary concert that
unfolds, every penny is a sound investment. So, whether you're a
connoisseur or simply a seeker of culinary euphoria, Montecito at
Kimpton Saint Honoré sounds like the blue note.
The same chef manages Sequoia rooftop bar, which is an attraction on its own. It welcomes a mix of hotel guests
and Parisian patrons. The view of the Eiffel Tower illuminated against
the night sky is a sight to behold. Sipping a glass of Champagne, with
a selection of Sushi and sappy snacks under the twinkling stars, feels
like the epitome of cool luxury. Prices are moderate, yet the minimum
spending to access the rooftop is set to EUR 40 per guest (which is
fine, and represents more or less the price of a couple of draft
beers).
Dress code smart casual.
Open for lunch (Monday-Saturday 12:00 - 14:30), and dinner (Monday-Saturday 19:00 – 23 / 23:30). Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 15:00.
G.M
MONTECITO (at Hotel Kimpton Saint Honoré Paris ): 27-29 Boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris
PHONE: +33 1 80 40 76 40
E-MAIL: reservations@kimptonsthonoreparis.com
CAFE
DE LA PAIX (****L): A landmark, the Café
de la Paix remains since 1862 one of the leading brasseries in Paris.
Attached to the Grand
Hôtel, (now InterContinental
Paris Le Grand) with an outside terrace facing the Opera House, it
remains nowadays one of the most sought after tourist spots in Paris. Like the Eiffel
Tower or the Louvres,
it is given the cold shoulder by the Parisian who certainly consider it
as a tourist trap. It is not. Of course, the lavish dinning room,
designed by Garnier (architect of the Opera House), sounds like
Babylon: echoing a multiplicity of foreign languages. Asian and
American tourists just swear by this cafe, once visited by Emile Zola,
Guy de Maupassant, Sergei Diaghilev, and so many statesmen and movie
stars.
This is a brasserie indeed; not a «grand restaurant». Those who are not
patient enough to wait five minutes to be seated in the noisy, animated
dinning-rooms or terraces will feel frustrated somehow. Which is a
pity, as we got there a more than decent gastronomic experience.
The Café de la Paix undergone a complete refurbishment, and reopened in
the last fall of 2022. More sumptuous than ever, it proposes a
bistrochic menu by Chef
Laurent André. After being trained by Michelin-star Alain Chapel
in Mionnay, and a seven-year term in the kitchens of the Louis XV
(Monaco), La Grande Cascade (Paris), Spoon Food & Wine (London and
Hong-Kong), and Royal Monceau-Raffles (Paris), he has the difficult
task to please the old
school gourmets, visiting the Café de La Paix for its imperial seafood
plates or its legendary sole from Normandy, and the new generation of
foodies attracted by a lighted, somehow more feminine version of the
French cuisine.
We skipped one more time the reputed «Plateau Café de La Paix» (a rich
selection of seafood from the counter, at EUR 98), preferring to order
signature dishes, reflecting André's skill. The «Roasted Scallops from
Port-en-Bessin» (EUR 41), over a pumpkin mousseline with chestnuts and
flat parsley, roasted squash seed, was close to perfection. Some might
find it a bit too sweet: but this ideally accommodates the Oriental and
Asian gourmet's taste. More than 50% of the guests come from the Middle
East and Far East. The portion was bistro-size: enough for a solid
appetite. The bread, “Brioché”, was a bonus worth a Michelin-starred
restaurant.
We warmly recommend the palatable and light «Steamed White-Fish Fillet»
(EUR 38), with celery and nuts, yellow wine sauce with cream, light
mousse of broccoli. We paired our fish with “1753 Campuget, Viognier,
2019” (EUR 13 by the glass), four months in barrique, providing one of
the most interesting Costières de Nîmes wines, with a refreshing taste
balancing between tropical fruits and honeysuckle.
We found the «Loster Club Sandwich» plain Jane; nothing to compare with the sappy «Loster Roll» served opposite, at Montecito, in the not so concurrent Hotel Kimpton Saint Honoré Paris (same IHG management). This is, with the absence of tablecloths, the only negative remark after our 99% positive experience.
We did it all «à la carte», and will experience next time the appealing
and good value «Menu d'Hiver» («Menu d'Hiver») (EUR 57 for starter +
main course + dessert) which featured, the day of our visit, «Grilled
Black Angus Beef Chuck», with skewers of roasted potatoes, Parisian
mushroom heads, slow-cooked garlic, little gem lettuce with olive oil
and Béarnaise sauce. Pastries by Sophie de Bernardi are classic and
classy. Definitely Parisian, the Millefeuille, served with a refreshing
«Kiwi Sorbet», is a best seller. As far as «Paris-Bretagne»: a
declination of the exquisitely old-school «Paris-Brest» (choux pastry,
salted caramel buttercream with cashew nuts). The standard price for
any pastry is EUR 15. Alternatively, we liked with a «Café Gourmand»,
served with always inventive delicacies.
G.M
CAFE
DE LA PAIX: Angle Place de l'Opéra - Boulevard des Capucines
- 75009 PARIS
PHONE:
+33 1 40 07 36 36 - FACSIMILE: +33 1 40 07 36 13
E-MAIL: reservation@cafedelapaix.fr
LA TERRASSE DU
RAPHAËL (*****L): One
of the top 10 rooftop terraces in Paris, and certainly the most
exclusive, this enchanting place has a hanging garden that offers a
360° view of Paris and the Eiffel Tower. A haven of peace in the heart
of the posh “Golden Triangle”, this is with L'Oiseau
Blanc, Epicure, and Le
Diane,
one of the most noticeable and pleasant places for a gastronomic
experience in Paris. Or just a “Bloody Mary”, as this is also one of
the most visited cocktail bars in town, beating in style the “Bar
Anglais” located in the same, supremely stylish Hotel Raphaël.
From May until September, the “Tout Paris” gathers on the seventh floor
“La Terrasse” to experience Chef Francisco Merino's light cuisine, with
a Mediterranean twist.
The aromas of the dishes mix with the exhilarating scent of the
flowers, enlightening this bucolic hangout. Our table was booked a few
days in advance: it had to be, as the regular patrons and hotel guests
have a priority over the one time visitor. Note that some strategically
situated “VIP
Tables” allow a fantastic sunset experience, with canapés and
Champagne global offer (for up to 6 persons).
We visited “La Terrasse” on a breezy, sunny day. The atmosphere was
cheerful and relaxed. Making us feel like sitting at Sennequier St
Tropez or Bar du Soleil Deauville... with the Arch of Triumph, Eiffel
Tower, and Montmartre in the background. The illustration of the
dreamed Paris filmed by Vincente Minelli or Jean-Pierre Jeunet, indeed!
How happy should be an American in Paris sitting in this gastronomic
belvedere!
We went for the three-course “Menu
Déjeuner”,
at EUR 78. Being reasonable in the wine pairing, and with one bottle of
mineral water, this all makes a EUR 100-120 bill. Which we found fairly
priced, due to the location and the quality of the cuisine.
Our starter was the refreshing, preciously textured “Wild Prawns
Ravioli, Coral Jelly & Peach Broth”. It came with whole
sourdough bread, and a small bottle of organic olive oil.
As the main course, we selected “Cod Fish preserved in Olive Oil, with
Pink Mashed Grape Fruit Potatoes, Lemon Caviar, and Coconut Lemongrass
Sauce”. A symphony of savors! The broth was poured over the fish at the
very last moment, and an extra portion of sappy mashed potatoes was
left to our discretion in a cast-iron stewpot. Edible flowers decorated
the dish, which we looked very bistro with a touch of Parisian elegance.
We paired it all with one glass of well chilled, ideally mineral and
fruity “Sancerre Clos Du Roy, 2017, Pascal Jolivet”. The daily
wine offer went at EUR 19 by the glass.
We concluded this bucolic lunch with a yummy signature: “Orange Blossom
& Strawberry Cheesecake”.
Next visit, we might experience the even more affordable “Menu
Déjeuner Bento” (EUR 49 with 33cl water / EUR 70 with Champagne
Veuve Clicquot: a favorite for the regular patrons.
This unique restaurant opens for lunch from 12.30 am to 2:00 pm (closed
on Sunday). Dinner in two services from 7:00 pm to 9.15 pm. First
service at 7:00 pm (you will be asked to release your table 2 hours
after your arrival). Second service at 9.15 pm.
G.M
LA
TERRASSE DU RAPHAËL (HOTEL RAPHAËL):17
Avenue Kléber 75116 Paris
PHONE: +33 1 53 64 32 30
E-MAIL:
laterrasse@raphael-hotel.com
FOUQUET'S
(****L): With Les Deux
Magots, Le Flore and
the Café de la Paix, this is one of the most recognizable cafés
in Paris. The concentration of celebrities visiting this legendary
address,
haunted by the world of movies, arts and politics, makes it the most
peopolized
place on the
Champs Elysées: the rows of Asian and Middle-Eastern tourists invading
the outside and inside terraces, visiting Fouquet's as a landmark,
protect
the anonymity of the happy-few greeting and joining each others for a
pleasant
gastronomic routine.
Everybody
-except some tourists, leaving their table with frustration- knows that
Fouquet's is nothing but an authentic Parisian brasserie, serving
solid,
excellent traditional fares. If quick though friendly service, noise
and
crowd are not your style, you should rather straightly head to La Tour
d'Argent, Taillevent, or Le Diane, located one step beyond, on the
first
floor of the high end Fouquet's
Barrière hotel... But you will miss warm and exciting
moments:
Chef Jean-Yves Leuranguer feeds here, and in Le Diane, what one
calls «Le Tout Paris»
(=Parisian society), with yummy and reinvigorating specialties served
in generous portions. The «Lobster Caesar Salad» and the
«Fouquet's King Crab Flowers, Quinoa Grains and Citrus Vinaigrette»
(EUR 49) are classics which would make us come back, indeed. Impossible
to sit at Fouquet's without experiencing the «Coin de rue»
style potatoes, considered by many -including Joël Robuchon- as the
best French fries in Paris (which means in the world...). Enjoy them
with
a «Grilled Filet of Beef, Bearnaise Sauce». At EUR
48,
it could feed two people, and is well worth the visit. We got it with a
well paired «Crozes-Hermitage, Côte du Rhône» (EUR
12, by the glass). The wine list features up to 350 references;
including
a remarkable selection of Champagne (try the «Pomery Pop Earth»,
first 100% «eco-conceived» Champagne is exclusively served
in Fouquet's).
Though
we
found the «Rum Baba» quite ordinary and too strong
on
the Rum, most of the desserts are mouth watering: our preference goes
to
those made out of Valrhona Chocolate: the «Palet of Cesar»,
for instance. It is included in the well balanced «Traditional Menu»,
featuring appetizer, main dish and dessert: actually good valued at EUR
81. No need to be the Agan Khan, Marlene Dietrich or the Duke of
Windsor
-you might be seated at their favorite table: check it out from the
iron-plate
fixed on the wall- to afford the unique privilege of dining in much
more
than a restaurant: a symbol of Paris, officially recognized as a part
of
the Parisian patrimony by the Ministry of Culture.
Owned
and
managed by the Lucien
Barriere
group of hotels.
G.M
FOUQUET'S:
99 avenue des Champs Elysees, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
+33 1 (0) 40 69 60 60
FACSIMILE:
+33 1 (0) 40 69 60 05
E-MAIL:
reservationsfouquets@lucienbarriere.com
LASSERRE
(*****L): Monsieur
Lasserre is no longer with
us, but his great establishment opposite the Palais de la Découverte
science museum marches on, more splendid than ever. Jean-Louis Nomicos,
a close associate of Alain Ducasse for years, presents a prix fixe
that skillfully
reconciles tradition and modernity. Priority is given to produce, and
everything
here is a question of balance, as evinced by truffle and foie gras
macaroni. The Breton lobster in classic simmered
stew seasoned with
honey, chestnuts and rosemary is always a must, but turbot in a crust
of
black truffle, artichokes and green pea purée is today's true event. The
pigeon served with seasonal fruits and
vegetables is to cooking
what a Rembrandt is to painting, but you may prefer the milk-fed
veal
chops with lemon and ginger cream sauce. The chocolaté
soufflé
is splendid. The service is fully what you would expect from such a
noble
establishment, and the check reflects that magnificence. The
sommelier's
name is Antoine Petrus, which already gives food for thought. When the
weather is fine, the roof of the elegant dining room opens to the sky.
The effect is magical and never stales.
Fixed
price:
EUR 75 (lunch), EUR 185 (tasting « Prix fixe »). A la carte:
EUR 180-200.
Closed
lunch
(except Thursday, Friday), Sunday, August. Open until 10 PM.
G.P
LASSERRE:
17, av Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
+33 1 43 59 53 43 / FACSIMILE: +33 1 45 63 72 23
E-MAIL:
lasserre@lasserre.fr
TAILLEVENT
(Alain Solivérès) (*****L): Alongside
the "modernists" and their sometimes controversial concoctions, the
"classicists"
have their place, but must obviously still bring their cuisine into
line
with today's tastes. This is exactly what recently demised Jean-Claude
Vrinat asked of
the chefs at "his" Taillevent, a timeless (but not changeless)
restaurant.
Alain Solivérès, a creative craftsman who trained with Maximin,
Ducasse and Cirino, has planned a prix fixe that seems traditional on
first
sight. Only when it is explained by the master of the house do you
realize
that nothing could be further from the truth. This is confirmed when Sault
spelt wheat risotto with browned frog's legs or John
Dory fish
with olives arrive. The sunfîlled cuisine reaches its zenith with lamb
saddle in a reduction sauce seasoned with
regional wild herbs.
The desserts, such as the feuille à feuille, a
layered dessert
of three chocolates, or baba au rhum with
liquor-soaked raisins
seem a million years old but still topical. The wine list is endless
and
the setting—a Second Empire town house with contemporary art providing
interior decoration— exceptional, as is the service. The check rapidly
adds up, but this comes as no shock, since the restaurant is at the
peak
of its achievements.
Fixed
price:
EUR 70 (lunch), 140, 190. A la carte: EUR 200.
Closed
Saturday,
Sunday, end of July-end of August. Open until 10 PM.
G.P
TAILLEVENT:
15, rue Lamennais, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 44 95 15 01 FACSIMILE: (+33-1) 42
25 95 18
E-MAIL:
mail@taillevent.com
LA
TOUR D'ARGENT (*****L): From
his vantage point,
Claude Terrail must be proud to see that while the world moves on, it
is
business as usual for La Tour. He bas finally left us, leaving his son
André to run his institution. Lovers of Paris should not worry,
though: come hell or high water,
the Tour remains. We paid our visit just after Michelin took away one
of
the restaurant's stars in a very well publicized move as chef
Jean-François
Sicallac was handing over the reins to his lieutenant, Stéphane
Haïssant, a vétéran of Guérard, Loiseau and Senderens,
before going to run the Coquille in Concarneau. We felt that the house
cuisine had never been more effective. Admittedly, no one visits the
Terrails'
establishment (which was already in vogue in the 16th century) in
search
of trendy dishes that will be out of date as soon as the latest fad has
peaked, but rather for a master class in a great, ambitious, classical
tradition. In fact, the little appetizers, with mustard beignets, and
vigorous
starters, such as médaillons of foie gras with a
sea urchin
cream sauce, silky pike quenelles with mushroom
duxelles, duck
with orange sauce served with crisp, twice-fried potato puffs
and spinach
gratin, whole veal kidneys cooked rare, garnished
with crayfish
and a Jura wine sauce and passion fruit and guava parfait
were actually
at the height of their powers. We might add that these marvels were a
part
of the lunchtime set menu, priced at a levelheaded EUR 70.
The
service
in wing collar and tails, and the panoramic setting over-looking the
Seine,
the Ile Saint Louis and the roofs of Paris still hold ail their
ineffable
charm. The wine list, supervised by the expert David Ridgway, is still
one of the most splendid in the world (a 1988 Château la Dominique
was the choice accompaniment for our feast). Finally, pears poached in
a vanilla cream and poire William with candied caramel, remains one of
the most irresistible confections of ail time. Marvelous Tour!
Prix
fixe:
EUR 70 (lunch), EUR 200, EUR 230. A la carte: EUR 200.
Closed for reconstruction until Autumn 2023.
G.P
LA
TOUR D'ARGENT: 15-17, quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris
PHONE:(+33-1)
43 54 23 31 / 01 40 46 71 11. FACSIMILE: (+33-1) 44
07 12 04
E-MAIL:
resa@latourdargent.com
LAURENT
(*****L): With Edmond
Ehrlich gone, many had
their doubts about Laurent's future. They had not reckoned with the
determination
of its team of great professionals and the arrival of a conscientious
chef.
In the dining room, the good-humored Philippe Bourguignon
welcomes regulars
and first-time visitors with equal courtesy. In the kitchen, Alain
Pégouret,
who has worked with Joël Robuchon and Christian Constant, is at the
summit of his art, as shown by pan seared duck foie gras
that opens
the proceedings. Beneath a classical exterior, red mullet filet
seasoned with saffron, bone marrow and caramelized shallot sauce is an
exceptionally modem dish. The Corrèze veal flank steak,
simply
braised and presented with Swiss chard and a reduction sauce, is
congenial
and tasty, while hot soufflé perfumed with Anis de Ponrarlier
is a highly successful confection. Patrick Lair always provides good
advice
when the time comes to choose a wine. The price of ail this splendor is
reasonable, and there is a terrace for when the sun shines.
Prix
fixe:
EUR 75, EUR 150. A la carte: EUR 180.
Closed
Saturday
lunch, Sunday, Bank Holidays. Open until 10:30 PM.
G.P
LEDOYEN
(*****L): The Napoléon
III style has
been lovingly maintained, and guests here lunch or dine in one of the
most
elegant settings in the capital. Christian Le Squer's cuisine is in
tune
with these surroundings as he consummately champions the colors of
"his"
Brittany, enchanting his
enthralled audience with oven-crisped langoustine
served in a citrus
olive oil emulsion sauce. Straying a little further from the beaten
path,
the concentré of assorted Belon and spéciales oysters
makes a succulent marine starter. Sobriety does not rule out a touch of
mischief, and the astute oven-crisped slices of filet of sole
acquire
a somewhat Jurassic flavor, prepared as they are with Jura wine. The
ingenious sautéed spiced suckling pig with gnocchi
and
semi-dried tomatoes
seems native to the land of Brittany and is toothsome to a fault. For
dessert, thin crisp dark chocolaté sheets with iced pistachio
milk
will have you swooning. The service is in the delicious style practiced
in bourgeois homes. The check climbs rather higher than Brittany's
unspectacular
Arrée Mountains, but without giving undue offence.
Prix
fixe:
EUR 85 (lunch on weekdays), EUR 198 (lunch on weekdays), EUR 284 (wine
included on weekdays). A la carte: EUR 200.
Closed
Saturday,
Sunday, Monday lunch, August. Open until 9:45 PM.
G.P
LEDOYEN
: Carré des Champs-Elysées, 1, av Dutuit, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 53 05 10 01 FACSIMILE:
(+33-1) 47 42 55
01
E-MAIL:
pavillon.ledoyen@ledoyen.com
PIERRE GAGNAIRE
(*****L): As
on the opening night of Victor Hugo's play Hernani, there are champions
and critics, cheers and boos, with some praising it to the skies and
others shooting it down in flames. Yes, three-star Michelin Pierre
Gagnaire is controversial, which
is no bad thing. This genius of flavors has always been a mine of
ideas, constantly revising the thousand and one dishes he invents and
his ways of presenting them. The aim here is innovation as well as
originality Thrill to the exhilarating millefeuille with arugula
whipped cream seasoned with spring onion jus, the speck ham and
peppered mint with cherry juice, the golden Bresse liver gateau with
glazed crayfish nage seasoned with Pouilly-Fuissé accompanied by
Perthius asparagus tips, new onions, and Menton lemon paste. Gasp at
the daring langoustines with a green mango tartare and crunchy sheet of
nougatine and mustard currant syrup that are pan-fried with “Terre de
Sienne” spices, served with a broth foam and a slice of black
radish-chilled consommé dusted with carob powder The performance is not
over yet. We applaud as the curtain rises on rack of Lozere lamb,
roasted and poached with oregano, served with crisped fresh herbs and
swiss chard enrobed with pan juices, cloves of garlic, shallots, and
eggplant and chill-seasoned Madagascar jumbo shrimp cooked with prune
eau-de-vie, grilled medallions of lamb with rich lamb sauce, zuchinni
flowers, and cold reduction sauce as a condiment. Barely a moment to
recover and Pierre Gagnaire's grand finale is with us: nine desserts
inspired by French pâtisserie, made with seasonal fruit, lightly
sugared confections, and chocolates. The service is perfection itself,
including the choice of wines, which can be left unreservedly to
Raphaël Huet. However, such prodigies come at a price.
A la carte:EUR 250-350.
Closed Saturday, Sunday
lunch, Wednesday lunch, 2 weeks in beginning of August. Open until 9:30
PM.
G.P
PIERRE
GAGNAIRE: 6, rue Balzac, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 58 36 12
50
FACSIMILE: (+33-1) 58 36 12 51
E-MAIL: info@pierregagnaire.com
M64
(****L): Executive-Chef Edward
Uchiyama, after serving in George V and Joël Robuchon, is now
hiring his talent to this so-Parisian gastronomic venue which looks
like all but a hotel restaurant. It has a separate entrance from the
chic InterContinental
Paris Avenue Marceau, and deals more with local patrons (lots
of businessmen the day of our visit; few ladies in sight...) than with
foreign travellers. Which is somehow a
pity:
as M64 is part of those still confidential fine dining places, offering
a remarkable French cuisine at a most decent bill until a well-merited
Michelin star -or two- might increase it quite a lot.
We experienced M64 a few weeks after a faultless dinner at L'Atelier
Robuchon Etoile. This was interesting comparatively, as the
“grand Joël” undoubtedly influenced Uchiyama quite a lot. From the
starters to the dessert, we felt the same imagination, distinction,
lightness and perfect control of the time of cooking products from the
most noble -usually French- origins. No heavy sauce, no extra spices,
but a linearity with the original taste of the splendid fish, tender
meat and healthy vegetables served at M64.
The lounge bar and its smooth, elegant club armchairs was full, and we
were directed to a table with a view on the quiet patio (open from late
Spring until early Autumn). From the elegance of the guests, we
understood that this was “the place to be”; something like a VIP
corner. Lucia, the seducing and efficient “maîtresse de maison” saved
us from such a masculine atmosphere and pampered us the five star way.
After one glass of Laurent Perrier Brut (at a fair EUR 20), we started
with a light, nicely textured “Saint-Jacques “à la plancha” with Red
Beet” and a “Softened Pearl Barley Risotto with Cedar and “Brandade”
Consommé, topped with Grounded Caviar”. Again, a nice texture and a
good balance between a bistro and gastronomic dish. Informal and
palatable: kind of a win-win receipt. Both were paired with little of
our Champagne (ad hoc with the Saint-Jacques) and one glass of nice
village “Chablis, Domaine La Meulière 2014” (EUR 14 / glass).
We really wished to taste one of Uchiyama's leading signature
dishes: “King Prawn Lasagna, Coconut Milk, Lime & Fresh
Coriander”. We had it, with Scampi instead, and we found this variation
fascinating: if M64 would gain a Michelin star, this would surely be
for such an ideally balanced, inventive specialty. Another signature:
“Foie Gras stuffed Quail, Red Cabbage Purée, Roasted Apple, Candied
Chestnuts”, with again a perfectly mastered cooking, with juicy quails,
not too much goose liver so that the unique taste of the bird is not
covered nor altered... It reminded us little bit of Robuchon... Paired
with a tannic, herby Bio “Côteaux du Languedoc, “Le Mas”, Domaine
Clavel 2013” (EUR 14 / glass), we simply loved it! Those signature
dishes usually remain on the menu all
year long. They simply make guests come back again and again. We shall
too.
Desserts are imaginative and yummy. We couldn't doubt on the capacity
of a Japanese Chef, grown up in Canada and educated in France, to send
to our table something remarkable: his “Mango, Vahlrona Chocolate
Vacherin” looked and tasted like the consecration of one of our best
lunch in Paris this year.
With starters at around EUR 25, fishes and meats approximately EUR 35
and all desserts at EUR 12, plus a couple of glasses of wine, the most
recommended M64 will satisfy yourself for more or less EUR 100. An
uncompromising value in the top-notch Golden Triangle of Paris.
Open 12:30 am - 2:30 pm from Monday to Sunday, 7:30 pm - 10:30 pm from
Monday to Saturday.
Restaurant is closed on Sunday evening.
G.M
M64 (at InterContinental
Paris Avenue Marceau): 64 avenue Marceau, 75008 Paris
PHONE: +33 1 44 43 36 50 FACSIMILE: +33 1
42 84 10 30
E-MAIL:
contact@m64-restaurant.com
114
FAUBOURG (Eric Frechon / Eric Desbordes) (****L): Located
in the hotel Le Bristol new
wing, inaugurated
in October 2009, this bistro-chic where the action goes is attended by
artists, fashionists, journalists and -much more important-
gastronomes.
Designed
on a duplex-level by Maja Oetker (owner of the hotel) and a wisely
selected
team
of architects, with gild columns, natural light provided by large
windows,
pop-style pictures of dahlias over the walls, and an open kitchen, the
slightly kitch place still provides a fine dining environment
to
the Parisian society and first class travellers alike.
We
had our
lunch on the street level: this is actually the place to see and be
seen. Once the «Elysée Palace coffee shop» (during his reign, Nicolas
Sarkozy's special advisers liked to sit there), this is now a familiar
haunt for
businessmen or celebrities from the local show business; the rich and
famous still prefer the posh, more gastronomic Epicure
restaurant.
We are in the merge
of fine-dining, with simple, traditional recipes. Three star Michelin
Chef
Eric Frechon supervises the menu; while the younger Eric Desbordes
(ex-Hilton
Paris, George V and Pershing Hall) remains the captain aboard. With a
bright,
appetizing, reinvigorated cuisine... and relatively fair prices for
generous
portions.
Except
the «Oeuf Cocotte au Chorizo & Fleurs de Capucines»
(Baked Egg, Nasturtium Flower & Chorizo Flavoured), which we
already
enjoyed in the Winter restaurant, the «114 Faubourg» menu distinguishes
itself completely from the main wing restaurants sophisticated offer.
We
recommend the «Oeuf King Crab, Mayo au Gingembre Citron»
(King Crab Egg, with a Ginger-Lemon Mayonnaise): well structured,
delicious
pieces of the legendary Kamtchatka king crab legs come into an eggshell
filled with a sweet mayonnaise, flavored with a lemon zest and a pinch
of ginger. It costs EUR 22; which shocked some food-writers. The king
crab
ranks in the same price range like the blue lobster; is it a rip-off to
charge this delicacy at the rate of a mediocre main dish in an average
coffee shop? We are in the Bristol; those stepping in won't certainly
be
cooled back by such a detail. Our companion ordered the «Grosses
Crevettes, Legume au Wok» (King Prawns, Wok Sautéed
Vegetables)
(EUR 45); the portion was as generous as the size of the prawns. We
liked
very much the cooking options: steam, plancha or grilled; with
Tapenade,
soja, Satay or Curry sauce. We had them plancha with Satay, and this
was
perfect. The roasted «Queue de Lotte au Poivre de
Sechuan,
Légumes Sautés au Wok» (Monkfish Tail, Seasoned
with Sechuan Pepper, Wok Sautéed Vegetables) is one of Eric Desbordes'
specialties. We went for it, and didn't regret our choice. The portion
was more than generous, and came with freshly woked vegetables. A
classic,
with a well mastered cooking time, resulting into a unmatched savor and
texture. It costs EUR 45 (EUR 38, when labeled «Dish of the Day»;
which happens quite often). Have it all with a bottle of «Sancerre,
Clos de Beaujeu 2007, Gérard Boulay» (EUR 60): fresh,
mineral and conveniently acid, this wine from the French region of
Berry
provides a fascinating richness and complexity and a long, vibrant
finish
that calls for seafoods, fresh vegetables and goat cheese (have it
alternatively
with the selection of French cheese, at EUR 12).
Desserts,
by Laurent Jeannin, are wonderful: our favorite remains the «Millefeuille
à la Vanille de Bourbon, Caramel au Beurre Demi-Sel» (French
Layered Cake, Filled with Vanilla Custard and Mildly-Salted Butter
Cream
Caramel ) (EUR 18). A Kandinsky-like interpretation of the traditional
millefeuille, with a great, sophisticated savor.
The « 114 Faubourg
» is a must be tried, indeed. With 90
seats only, and many regular guests, booking is essential.
G.M
BLOSSOM
(****L): Located
in the high-fashion row, with Hermès, Chanel, and all the other
prestigious brands located a stone's throw, this restaurant, opened on
May 2017 in the ritzy Sofitel
Paris Le Faubourg, reflects its environment. Chic and light, it
offers a “couture cuisine”,
updated so often that what we experienced yesterday couldn't be served
tomorrow. Alexandre Auger, trained at “Dali” by Michelin star chef
Yannick Alleno, before working at Victoria 1836, is inspired by the
seasons: improvising Blossom's offer according to the freshness and
quality of the ingredients. Some call his cuisine “vegan”: which
sounds eggagerated, though he actually puts vegetables in the center of
his cuisine.
The dining room is particularly pleasant. Warm, welcoming (the
impeccable staff does of a lot for this), it has been tastefully
designed by Didier Gomez. Homey, with a checked stone floor, “couture”
furniture, lacquered ceilings, and large windows opening to a quiet
lushly patio cheered up by a small fountain, it caters the regular VIP
patrons in Spring and Summer. It is called “Blossom's Garden”, and this is where we had our
most recent experience, in July 2019.
Should you visit Blossom for lunch, you can order a
la carte; though some of the most attractives dishes are available
by the “Menu
Blossom”, offering one of the best value for money options in this
exclusive area.
At EUR 42 only for a three-course service (two-course at EUR 35), we
easily understand why this
“bistro-chic” became a daily “cantine” for those working in the
Faubourg St Honoré! We just regret that a wine-pairing menu wasn't
available.
A
starter of the day, “Yellowtail Sashimi” came with an elegant note of
Chipotle pepper, grilled sesame oil and tamari, gently emulsified with
a discreet touch of fresh ginger and lime. This refreshing dish was
nicely paired with a “coupe” of Laurent-Perrier “La Cuvée” (EUR
22...the price didn't increase since our previous visit one and a half
year ago!). We kept this wine with a signature starter: “Vitello
Tonnato”, with preserved tomatoes, croutons, anchovies, taggiasche
olives, and arugula salad.
There is an attractive selection of salads. From the innovative
“Beetroot Bowl”, audaciously associated with Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine
goat cheese, served warm with lemon and honey, till the classic “Caesar
Salad”. We skipped it, preferring fish. You won't take any risk
ordering “Roasted Scorpion Fish Fillet” (EUR 35), with mouth-watering
summer vegetable “en barigoule”, aromatic Thai sweet basil, and star
anise. This was the highlight of our lunch, which we recommend to pair
with young and mineral “Sancerre, Le MD de Bourgeois, Henri Bourgeois,
2016”: a signature wine at Blossom (EUR 18 / glass). To make it even
more classy, we recommend “Blue Lobster with Verbana”, served in a
generous portion (we got the whole lobster), with homemade gnocchi,
roasted apricots, and Noilly Prat French vermouth light cream. EUR 48
sounded a fair price for this delicacy.
Meat is excellent. Imported from the best French, German and Deutch
farms. “French Beef Sirloin Aged for 21 Days” is a best seller. Tender
and juicy, served with French fries and a sappy Béarnaise sauce. We
paired it with “Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine des Entrefaux, François
Tardy, 2015” (EUR 13 / glass), sensual, developing licorice notes from
a silky tannin.
This was time for Chef Alexandre to creep off, letting his pastry chef,
the charming and gifted Shereen Khelif, putting the cherry on the cake.
Playing on a variation over the most classic “Chocolate Pie”, made of
black organic 70% Andoa cocoa by Valhrona, coconut cream, dates and
almonds (no milk, no butter: this is a vegan dish), or lavish “Saint
Honoré” (with raspberries, yuzu diplomate cream, and fragrant Bourbon
vanilla chantilly cream). Our favorite dessert? The very traditional
“Lemon Tart”, paired with one glass of fleshy, fruity “Mas Amiel” (EUR
20 / glass), matured 20 years in an oak barrel., in the village of
Maury (France). Its deep ruby robe and bouquet is quite comparable with
a vintage Hungarian sweet Tokaj.
BLOSSOM (at SOFITEL
PARIS LE
FAUBOURG); 15, rue Boissy d'Anglas, 75008 Paris
PHONE: +331 44 94 14 14
FACSIMILE: +33 1 44 94 14 28
E-MAIL: H1295@sofitel.com
SHANG PALACE (****L):
Since
1974, all Shangri-La hotels worldwide operate a branch of this upscale
Chinese gourmet restaurant: therefore, the sumptuous Shangri-La Paris,
inaugurated in 2010 in Prince Roland Bonaparte's 19th century mansion,
operates one
of the few Michelin 1 star Asian restaurants in France.
Cantonese head-chef Frank Xu, a veteran of the industry from Shenzhen,
received this much sought after award in 2012; since, the Shang Palace
ranks atop the most visited restaurants in Paris “triangle of gold”. Xu
operates with two dozens of cooks in the kitchen: featuring key posts
like wok, barbecue and chopper experts, plus a gifted dim sum maker.
The day of our visit,
end of August at lunch time, the restaurant was 80% booked. Not bad for
a sunny summer day, when terraces are more attractive than this
windowless dining-room which, logically, one might prefer to
experience on a gloomy rainy day. We saw it already in Macau, Bangkok
and Singapore: Chinese high-end restaurants like to dissimulate their
fulgent design and flamboyant service, giving to the patrons the
pleasure of a timeless experience in a cozy, protected environment.
This is true that we didn't feel the time passing by, and even forgot
that we were sitting in a Parisian restaurant. Shouldn't it be the
presence of some dressed to kill businessmen and captains of industry
making the Shang Palace their canteen, we would rather have felt
transported thousands miles from Europe: in Singapore or Beijing. Asian
guests in sleeveless shirts or sportswear completed this pleasantly
disorientating impression. Just like in China, VIPs -and families-
prefer to use at ease the 3 private dining rooms named for the Tang,
Ming and Qing dynasties.
After being seated by
smart Oriental hostesses, we have been spontaneously presented with hot
refreshing towels and the menu. It doesn't display all the sometime
weird -but palatable- specialities available in the Shang Palace
Bangkok or, even better, Singapore. Thus, this selection of the best
Eastern delicacies looks perfect for a exciting introduction of the
Cantonese cuisine to the Parisian gourmets. Don't be too frustrated if
shark fins are not available: this fantastic delicacy has been banned
in the Shangri-La hotels worldwide...
We could choose either a
la carte, either lunch menu featuring two selections: Menu Jade (Eur
70) or Menu Dim Sum (EUR 58). We went for the second option, as we
already knew that the Shang palace was highly reputed for those
Cantonese steamed dumplings made of ingredients wrapped in a
translucent rice flour skin. We neglected the rich wine list, as tea is
typically served with dim sum: the selection is unlimited, with the
rarest and most precious brands. Thus, we would recommend a very basic
jasmine tea, pairing the quite blend though yummy taste of the dim sum.
Don't forget that in Asia this is quite a democratic meal (usually
served for breakfast and brunch), and that this would therefore be
unusual to saturate it with some sophisticated beverage. We have
visited many Chinese restaurants in Paris, and must admit that the Ha
Kao, Siu Mai and Buns dim sum by the Chang Palace are superior in size,
taste and texture. Only LiLi (at The Peninsula)
actually beats the restaurant in global term of quality and luxury.
Richly filled, Frank Xu's
dumplings can be
compared
with what we used to eat in fine Hong Kong or Singapore restaurants.
The Crab Meat Dumpling in Superior Clear Soup was also very reminiscent
of our trips to Asia. We found the Fried Egg Noodles with Shredded
Chicken and Bean Sprouts in Superior Soya Sauce quite good; though you
will find exactly the same dish in a cheap Chinese delicatessen in
Belleville or Porte de Choisy (the Chinese districts in Paris). The
portion was huge and we quickly felt full stomach; surprisingly, a
waiter asked whether we would like to take it away in a doggie bag?
Astonishing in a palace hotel, but not at all in an oriental
restaurants where this practice is most common.
We are usually not fond
of Chinese
desserts, but must admit that the Chilled Mango Cream with
Pomelo and Sago was wonderful. Isn't it rather a Singaporean
speciality? It was tasting like more South-Asian than Cantonese, with a
succulent, actually natural flavour of mango.
Note that the Shang
Palace is also much reputed for its seafood specialities, and for its
legendary Roasted Whole Peking Duck. It costs EUR 160, will feed a
table of four, and is presented in two sequences. We checked the price
list, and compared with other Shang Palace branches in Asia: Paris
applies more or less the Singaporean tariffs, though the Shang Palace
Bangkok comes globally much cheaper. The bill remains fair for a
Parisian palace hotel, and this pleasant restaurant was a good
opportunity to discover the Shangri-La. One of the best serviced five
star deluxe hotels in town, it has amazing suites. We could peep in the
Shangri-La Suite, covering 100 sq.m plus a 100 sq.m terrace with the
best 360° panorama over Montmartre, the Latin Quarter, the river Seine
and the Eiffel Tower which looks like integrated in the room! Wow!
The Shangri-La Paris
operates a second
Asian restaurant, La
Bauhinia, and L'Abeille,
a renowned 2 Michelin star restaurant for splendid French cuisine by
chef Philippe Labbé.
One more most
prestigious address in the most prestigious European capital city, the
Shang Palace open for lunch 12am – 2pm (Thursday to Monday) and
dinner 7pm – 10pm (Thursday to Monday). It is closed on Tuesday and
Wednesday and from 10 July to 16 August.
G.M
SHANG
PALACE (HOTEL
SHANGRI-LA PARIS): 10 avenue d’Iéna, 75116 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 53 67 19 92 FACSIMILE: (+33-1) 53 67 19 19
E-MAIL:
shangpalace.slpr@shangri-la.com
PINXO
(****L): This
smart though cool restaurant is supervised by 2 Michelin star chef
Alain
Dutournier. A short walk from his world famous “Carré des Feuillants”,
he developed in the Renaissance
Paris Vendôme hotel an affordable, much convivial concept. In
Aquitaine "pincher" means
to grab, or even picking from neighbor’s plate. Following up on this
idea,
Dutournier decided to divide each dish in three servings, ready to be
subjected
to attack.
We
liked
the Zen, accommodating modern dining room in black, plum, and dark
wood,
designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon and painter-sculptor Alberto Bali, with
its open kitchen. This is where the Tapas-like dishes are prepared with
dexterity, then brought to your table by a friendly and anticipating
staff,
wearing black kimonos which might surprise at first sight. Luckily,
they
won't offer you those terrible «Suchi» available everywhere
round the world nowadays, but the best beef («race Blonde
d’Aquitaine»),
goose, rabbit, pastas or sea-food you would ever dream of. We found the
«Steam Cooked Vegetables & Large Prawns in a
Broth with Garden
Herbs» palatable. This is a reasonable starter at EUR 15.
Alternatively,
try the «Roll of Fresh King Crab, Salad, Soya Beans, Mint,
Chopped
Peanuts» (EUR
20), which is a chef's -and guests'!- favourite.
It has certainly been inspired by one of his numerous trips and long
stays
in South East Asia. Another favorite: the very tender «Aquitaine
Beef Sirloin Steak, Mashed Potato with Green Onion» (EUR
22).
Desserts
are as light as imaginative. Like the «Strawberries, White
Chocolate
Sabayon & Sponge Biscuit» (EUR
10). « Backed Alaska
Grand-Marnier Pancakes » (EUR
11).
Together,
with wine that can be ordered by the glass (EUR
5,5 for a most pleasant
AOVDQS « Sauvignon de Marigny-Neuf 2004, Frédéric
Brochet ») and coffee, guests tend to pay about EUR
50. This
is certainly why « Pinxo » is regarded like a "canteen" by
many executives or fashion designers working in this posh area.
Open
seven
days a week.
G.M
PINXO:
9, rue d'Alger 75001 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 40 20 72 00 FACSIMILE:
(+33-1) 40 20 72
02
E-MAIL:
rhi.parvd.reservations@renaissancehotels.com
APICIUS (****L): One Michelin
star chef
Jean-Pierre Vigato (he lost a second star in 2014) is a great champion.
After a spectacular start, we might have expected him to settle down to
a more leisurely pace. Not at all. In the slightly over-the-top decor
of Apicius, he is keeping up a
perfectly steady rhythm like a marathon runner. His cuisine delights
his preppy clientele, for whom he products ever more imaginative
dishes. He plays ingeniously on the changing seasons, offers a very
personal take on the hunting season when autumn comes, and prepares
seafood with infinite constancy. His hand-chopped langoustine meat,
lightly seared on the grill, is a festival of marine flavors that
explode on the tongue. The large turbot with spices, for two. is a
simple, yet exceptionally tasty dish.
We adore the roasted
Pyrénées leg of
lamb seasoned with parsley, and if we yield to the temptation of
dessert, our vote goes to dark chocolate soufflé with unsweetened
whipped cream. The service is a joy. If the Hervé Millet discoveries we
select from the wine list hike up the check to a slightly higher sum
than is reasonable, we still have no regrets.
A la carte: EUR 200-250.
The restaurant is air-conditioned, has a terrace and a private
dining-room. Valet parking available.
Closed Saturday, Sunday,
August. Open until 10 PM.
G.P
APICIUS:
20, rue d'Artois, 75008 Paris
PHONE:
(+33-1) 43 80 19
66
FACSIMILE: (+33-1) 44 40 09 57
E-MAIL:
contact@restaurant-apicius.fr
BIVOUAC CAFE
(****L): Located
in the sublime Hôtel
Napoléon, our home away from home and one of the
most prestigious addresses in Paris, the private-club like restaurant
distinguishes itself by its refined privacy most convenient for a
business lunch or a subtle romance
in the shadow of the Arch of Triumph. The place boosts so much charm,
with its British bar & lounge, Mahogany woodwork in warm tones,
deep armchairs and sofas, subdued lighting, and dome frescoes, plus a
very chic outdoor terrace. inviting you to experience Parisian street
life on Avenue de Friedland as soon as the first rays of sun appear.
We experienced the Bivouac Café dozens of times during our repeated
stays at Hôtel Napoléon. This is the place for one of the best
breakfast experience in Paris, indeed: beating in quality some major
palace-hotels of Paris “Golden Triangle” with one of the best trained
staff ever, displaying crunchy "Baguettes", great French cheese, and a
generous selection of high quality cold/hot meals (fried farm-eggs in
cast-iron cookware are amazingly delicious). From midday to 3pm, Monday
to Friday, Executive Chef Olivier Le Gentil, specialises in
Mediterranean cuisine, using herbs, seasonings and olive
oil. He
was the chef in 2 restaurants in Normandy, before joining the Hôtel
Napoléon 12 year ago.
At lunch time, regular patrons order from the savvy 3 course “Menu du
Marché” (EUR 44). After one glass of Champagne “Brut Bruno Paillard
Rosé”, we ordered “Goose Liver”, served over a slate plate with freshly
baked olive bread. We paired it with “Haut Brion, Clarendelle 2009, a
red second-wine produced in Pessac (Bordeaux) by Château Haut Brion,
reputed for its first growth Premier Crus Classé. At EUR 10 by the
glass, we would warmly recommend this aristocratic red wine. Fish was
nicely cooked and elegantly presented in quite a generous portion:
“Shade-Fish Osso Bucco, sautéed with fresh Ginger and diced
Vegetables”. We enjoyed it with well chilled “Sancerre Henri Bourgeois,
Grande Réserve 2014”, one of our favourite white wines from Berry
(Loire Valley), at EUR 9 by the glass. The dessert was so yummy: a
classic and classy “Lemon Meringue Pie”.
Warmly recommended.
G.M
BIVOUAC
CAFE (at
HOTEL
NAPOLEON): 40 Avenue de Friedland 75008 Paris
PHONE:
+331
56684321
FACSIMILE : +331 47668233
E-MAIL:
napoleon@hotelnapoleon.com
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