 Updated
15/06/2009
LE
BRISTOL (Eric Frechon) (*****L): With
three Michelin star, this is one of the top five hotel Visiting the "Grande Carte" sounds a temptation. Our "Homard Breton", blue lobster from Brittany (considered the best in the world), served with curried cucumber, milded by a generous touch of coconut milk, was aristocratic. Great texture, showing a perfect freshness. Great taste. Somehow influenced by the royal Thai cuisine. Well worth its EUR 69, this is a must! It is also available under a second, very attractive version: beech wood smoked, with peas mousseline, and lobster heads infused in wild mushroom juice... Euro 95; and well worth this price. A hard to forget delicacy. Alternatively, we would like to recommend the "Tourteau de Roscoff" (EUR 58): king crab from Brittany, served with pressed tomato, avocado flesh, and a divine tarragon infused coral. Or the "Langoustines de Guilvinec": served in a generous portion, they have been cautiously roasted with citrus thyme, onions and mango jam, then perfumed with a light citrus juice (EUR 80). Caviar is never very imaginative; except in Le Bristol: we had our "Osetra from the Caspian Sea" (EUR 98), with shellfish stock and sea lettuce, served with a cauliflower mousse. The association of the imperial caviar with the working class cauliflower was amazingly surprising: inventive, and actually appealing to the most spoiled palate. Of course one could hardly miss the "Macaronis Truffés" (EUR 55): Macaroni stuffed with artichoke, duck liver, gratinated with aged Parmesan: a specialty which made Eric Frechon world famous. Delicious with a glass of Champagne, those appetizers could also be much -not to say more!- enjoyed with a well chilled white wine. Like this "Condrieu 2002, Les Terrasses de l'Empire, Domaine Georges Vernays" which pleased our palate very much during our previous visit. Or with this wonderful, fragrant white "Sancerre, Le Chêne Marchand 2002" (EUR 50) that we enjoyed during our last inspection, in August 2007. Both wines perfectly matched the fish we ordered as a main course. Our "Saint-Pierre du Petit Bateau" (John Dory fish), with pickled lemon, sautéed squid and zucchini, mildly perfumed with precious aromatic sweet pepper from Espelette, was well worth the visit. A large portion goes for EUR 62. Alternatively, try the succulent "Bass from the Isle of Yeu" (EUR 85), smoothered with an oyster tartar, accompanied with charlotte potatoes mashed with flat leaves parsley juice. Meat is also served very generously. Like the "Poitrine de Cochon Fermier" (Belly of Pork) (EUR 60) or the "Barbecued Country Bacon" (EURO 61), roasted charlotte, herbs salad, with mustard seeds extracts : Eric Frechon likes to introduce so called "proletarian" -we would say: "bistrot"- products (pork, but also whiting or "Calf's Head": the most surprising in Paris, presented rolled, slightly crunchy, and spiced with capers and... anchovies!) to an elitist clientele of rich gourmets, familiarized with caviar and truffle. A risky, but successful game: the result comes perfect. Our pork was brought to our table on a trolley, still smocking over the gridiron, served with purple artichokes steamed with mustard leaves. Astonishingly not that fat, juicy and ideally spiced, we would like to recommend it to those with a hearty appetite. The "Filet d'Agneau de l'Aveyron" (Fillet of Lamb) is a good alternative: cooked with fresh herbs, almost melting under our tongue, it came into our plate with a delicious accompaniment: garlic croquettes, and zucchini jam ideally balanced with the fragrant essences of olive and basil (EUR 59). Or the "Suckling Veal Sweetbreads" (EUR 79), braised with dried fennel, carrots with gingerbread and lemon, and its cooking juice: a delicacy. We had it all with a "Saumur Rouge 2001, Foucault, Domaine du Collier, La Ripaille": pulpy, fruity, pleasant and easy to drink. Good value also (EUR 60). We have been too often disappointed by deserts, in those ritzy palace hotel restaurants. Which was not the case at Le Bristol. Assisted by a remarkable pastry cook (Laurent Jeannin, well trained in the hotels Crillon and George V), Eric Frechon brought to his menu splendid specialties. We took the classic, chic and very Parisian "Soufflé Chaud au Grand Marnier, Cuvée du Cent Cinquantenaire": a warm souffléed, precious vintage Grand Marnier flavoured, with orange and lemon sorbet, "Pain de Gênes" (sweet Italian Ginger Bread). At EUR 25, you cannot miss it, indeed. We can also recommend the "Abricots rôtis au Lait d'Amande" (EUR 22): roasted apricots, with almond milk, crumble, hot chocolate, and Amaretto ice-cream. Succulent. Not available all year long, "La Petite Gaufre aux Fraises des Bois" (Wild Strawberry Waffle), is divinely light. Those looking for absolute originality can order the "Fresh Fruits Sorbet" (EURO 20), very classical at first sight, with its fresh milk and cream scoops, and blonde meringue... but served on a nitrogen cloud bubbling and fumigating from bellow the cup. Sometimes, El Bulli and his alchemist influence is not far away from the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré... Note that the bread is so wonderful at Le Bristol, that it is exported as far away as... the Royal Palace in Bangkok! The selection which came to our table is the richest we have seen anywhere in Paris. Try that one with natural sea salt... unforgettable. Last but not least, we would like to mention -and warmly recommend- the world famous "Poularde de Bresse au vin de Château Châlon, cuite en Vessie" (Hen Chicken from the Bresse): honouring the much awarded AOC Bresse chicken. This is, together with the blue lobster and the "Macaronis Truffés", the highlights of a prestigious selection. It comes cooked in a bladder (the essence of the steamed wine make it so tender, so tasty, so... unique!), with crayfish, variety meats and actually royal black truffle. Superlative! The "Poularde" is the most expensive meal, at EUR 210 (for two peoples); but who minds the price at Le Bristol?! Moreover when comes the wine: Le Bristol has one of the best wine cellars in France, with exquisite and rare Pomerol Pétrus 1953, Château Yquem 1982, Corton Charlemagne 1992 and many others which are not systematically grands crus but tasty and sometime unforgettable regional wines. With more than 30,000 bottles, it is impossible not to please one's personal taste and budget: the friendly and extremely professional sommelier, Marco Pelletier, is a great adviser for those secret wines fitting all purses and palates. Conclude your dinner with a Louis XIII or, good value for money at EUR 55, with a glass of Bas Armagnac Laberdolive 1962: a pure marvel. Simply great with a Partagas Lusitania or a Montecristo N°2: a repressive French law bans this gourmet pleasure in public places, including five star restaurants, but smoking it remains possible in the hotel garden. One more originality at Le Bristol: their restaurant moves twice a year from a room to another inside the hotel, depending on the season. We do love the Winter Restaurant: plush, ritzy, just splendid, operating from November until April in an oval room that was, in the XIXth century, Jules de Castellane's private theatre. It is adorned with magnificent Regency hand-carved woodworking in Hungarian oak. Its glass roof is highlighted with gold leaf, and set off by panels painted by Gustave-Louis Jaulmes that festooned the Pleyel room of the Chaillot palace. A magnificent XVIIIth century tapestry from the Lille Manufacture completes the decor, which is also complemented by crystal chandeliers and a unique game table by Trehern. From May until April, the Summer Restaurant opens to the largest hotel grounds existing in the capital. When the sun shines, this is THE place to feel away from Paris stressing life: sitting among the magnolia, honeysuckle and rhododendron, with birds whistling for your ears only. Unique and warmly recommended. G.M
SEE OUR
SPECIAL REPORT ABOUT THE HOTEL LE BRISTOL
ALAIN
DUCASSE (*****L): Obviously, the Master, Alain
Ducasse, is not always present, but the kitchen team led by Christophe
Moret and Fixed price: EUR 200, 300. A la carte: EUR 250. G.P ALAIN
DUCASSE (Hotel Plaza Athénée)
: 25, av Montaigne, 75008 Paris
LASSERRE
(*****L): Monsieur Lasserre is no longer with
us, but his great establishment opposite the Palais de la Découverte
science museum Fixed price: EUR 75 (lunch), EUR 185 (tasting « Prix fixe »). A la carte: EUR 180-200. Closed lunch (except Thursday, Friday), Sunday, August. Open until 10 PM. G.P LASSERRE:
17, av Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, 75008 Paris
TAILLEVENT
(Alain Solivérès) (*****L): Alongside
the "modernists" and their sometimes controversial concoctions, the "classicists"
have Fixed price: EUR 70 (lunch), 140, 190. A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Saturday, Sunday, end of July-end of August. Open until 10 PM. G.P TAILLEVENT:
15, rue Lamennais, 75008 Paris
LES
AMBASSADEURS (*****L) (Jean-François Piège): This
is very much like a trip to the theater. In the golden glow of the dining
room, our Prix fixe: EUR 70 (lunch on weekdays). A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Sunday, Monday lunch, August. Open until 10 PM. G.P LES
AMBASSADEURS (Hotel de Crillon):
10, pl de la Concorde
LA
TOUR D'ARGENT (*****L): From his vantage point,
Claude Terrail must be proud to see that while the world moves on, it is
business as The service in wing collar and tails, and the panoramic setting over-looking the Seine, the Ile Saint Louis and the roofs of Paris still hold ail their ineffable charm. The wine list, supervised by the expert David Ridgway, is still one of the most splendid in the world (a 1988 Château la Dominique was the choice accompaniment for our feast). Finally, pears poached in a vanilla cream and poire William with candied caramel, remains one of the most irresistible confections of ail time. Marvelous Tour! Prix fixe: EUR 70 (lunch), EUR 200, EUR 230. A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Monday, Tuesday lunch. Open until 10 PM G.P
LA
TOUR D'ARGENT: 15-17, quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris
L'ARPEGE
(Alain Passard) (*****): Oblivious to fashion
and its diktats, Alain Passard remains true to form, loyal to the produce-based
cuisine Prix fixe: EUR 130 (lunch), EUR 340 (dinner). A la carte: EUR 250. Closed Saturday/ Sunday. Open until 10:30 PM. G.P L'ARPEGE:
84, rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris
GUY
SAVOY (*****): The man is in the image of
his restaurant: charming and never boastful. At Guy Savoy's, the
contemporary decor Behind the apparent simplicity lies a love—a passion—for shrewdly prepared produce. This results in short preparations with precise flavors: sharp, absolutely flawless and always surprisingly authentic. Whether this is your first or umpteenth visit, the signature dishes are extraordinary creations. The truffled artichoke soup with mushroom and truffle-seasoned brioche, oysters over an iced seafood broth, foie gras with salt, grilled sea bass seasoned with mild spices and turbot in egg salad and in soup express the qualities of the vegetable, shellfish or fish, refusing to allow themselves to be sidetracked. These examples of a true taste and its hidden qualities are also expressed by the pan-fried veal sweet-breads with truffled potato turnovers and Bresse chicken with lemon-grass cream sauce and lightly grilled vegetables. The subtle, precise desserts play from the same score, like the "déclinaison de fraises" (variations on the strawberry theme), the fabulous crème "minute", served with green apple jus, a masterpiece we found perfectly copied in the restaurant of three-star Londoner Gordon Ramsay, or chocolate spiced with tonka beans. Brilliant! What more can we add? Guy Savoy is clearly one of the subtle maestros of our day. Prix fixe: EUR 230, EUR 285. A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday, Monday, 1 week from Christmas-New Year's, August. Open until 10:30 PM. G.P
LAURENT
(*****): With Edmond Ehrlich gone, many had
their doubts about Laurent's future. They had not reckoned with the determination Prix fixe: EUR 75, EUR 150. A la carte: EUR 180. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday, Bank Holidays. Open until 10:30 PM. G.P LAURENT:
4l, av Gabriel, 75008 Paris
LEDOYEN
(*****): The Napoléon III style has
been lovingly maintained, and guests here lunch or dine in one of the most
elegant settings in Prix fixe: EUR 85 (lunch on weekdays), EUR 198 (lunch on weekdays), EUR 284 (wine included on weekdays). A la carte: EUR 200. Closed Saturday, Sunday, Monday lunch, August. Open until 9:45 PM. G.P LEDOYEN
: Carré des Champs-Elysées, 1, av Dutuit, 75008 Paris
L’ANGLE
DU FAUBOURG (****): L'Angle du Faubourg opened its doors in
April 2001. Two hundred meters from its Let’s call the not-so-impressive, Spoon-style design of the dinning room, “trendy”. It allegedly creates an atmosphere inspired by the soil of the vineyard. Minimalist, it has at least the advantage not to distract the gourmet from the delicacies he indeed finds in his plate. The cuisine by Laurent Poitevin is inventive; thus respecting the main basis of the French tradition. The menu was developed to put the accent on matching food and wine. Changed every six weeks, it offers six first courses, five main courses and five desserts. The attractive fixed price menu ("Menu d'Un Jour"), at EUR 35, available both for lunch and dinner, changes on a daily basis. For this unbeatable price, we had a Cold Salmon Fillet from the best origin, with slightly acid French dressing. Then came a Leg of Young Rabbit, braised with “prune wine”. Dessert was a “Blanc-Manger” (sort of upgraded cheese-cake) with strawberries. Much better than in any bistro all around. Much more imaginative and, shall we repeat it, amazingly good value for money. Even with some wine (about EUR 7 only for almost all wines sold by the glass)! A la carte, not much more expensive than the menu (if you take two courses), we liked very much the “Velouté de Tomate rafraîchi au Basilic” (cream of tomatoes cooled with basil) (EUR 10), quite similar to a Gazpacho. More sophisticated, nevertheless. Served with a sweet basil sorbet: creating a nice balance with the sour taste of the tomato. Alternatively, the “Lomo de Thon rôti aux Epices” (EUR 17) was aristocratic: this is the back fillet of a wild tuna fish, roasted with spices, served mild in the plate. As a main course, order the “Filet de Rouget à la Plancha” (EUR 22) : red mullet, grilled with odorant fresh thyme. Light, elegant, well textured, it makes you feel like at the seaside. To finish your lunch, don’t expect a whole cheeseboard featuring all the “Fromages de France”; cheese at L’Angle is reduced to a choice between three categories, sold out separately (you cannot mix) at EUR 8. The day of our visit we could have, either a fresh Cabecou, with honey vinegar, either a Saint-Nectaire Fermier, either a royal Roquefort, with a juice made out of a Banyuls wine. We preferred to have desert, and were finally well inspired. The “Ravioles de Betterave aux Fruits Rouges” (EUR 10) are actually inventive. Pleasant and interesting to the palate, this is a sweet gelled layer of beetroot jam, filled with sour berries. Served with a sorbet of fromage frais, we found it unforgettable. The wine list was prepared from a choice of wines from Les Caves Taillevent, featuring 200 references. The sommelier (who was a nice lady sommelière), advised a “Côte du Rhône 2001, Blanc de Blanc, Domaine Delubac”: ideal with the whole lunch, we took it by the glass (EUR 7). Chilled, aromatic, it fitted well the Mediterranean inspiration of this light, pleasant cuisine. One Michelin star. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Closed from July 26th to August 26th. G.M
PINXO
(****): This
smart though cool restaurant is supervised by 2 Michelin star chef Alain
Dutournier. A short walk from his world famous “Carré des Feuillants”,
he developed in the We liked the Zen, accommodating modern dining room in black, plum, and dark wood, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon and painter-sculptor Alberto Bali, with its open kitchen. This is where the Tapas-like dishes are prepared with dexterity, then brought to your table by a friendly and anticipating staff, wearing black kimonos which might surprise at first sight. Luckily, they won't offer you those terrible «Suchi» available everywhere round the world nowadays, but the best beef («race Blonde d’Aquitaine»), goose, rabbit, pastas or sea-food you would ever dream of. We found the «Steam Cooked Vegetables & Large Prawns in a Broth with Garden Herbs» palatable. This is a reasonable starter at EURO 15. Alternatively, try the «Roll of Fresh King Crab, Salad, Soya Beans, Mint, Chopped Peanuts» (Euro 20), which is a chef's -and guests'!- favourite. It has certainly been inspired by one of his numerous trips and long stays in South East Asia. Another favourite: the very tender «Aquitaine Beef Sirloin Steak, Mashed Potato with Green Onion» (Euro 22). Desserts are as light as imaginative. Like the «Strawberries, White Chocolate Sabayon & Sponge Biscuit» (Euro 10). « Backed Alaska Grand-Marnier Pancakes » (Euro 11). Together, with wine that can be ordered by the glass (Euro 5,5 for a most pleasant AOVDQS « Sauvignon de Marigny-Neuf 2004, Frédéric Brochet ») and coffee, guests tend to pay about Euro 50. This is certainly why « Pinxo » is regarded like a "canteen" by many executives or fashion designers working in this posh area. Open seven days a week. G.M
Prix fixe: EUR 98 (tasting menu). A lacarte: EUR 70-100. Open daily until 12 AM. G.P L'ATELIER
DE JOËL ROBUCHON: 5-7, rue Montalembert, 75007 Paris
SENDERENS
(ex-LUCAS CARTON) (****): Its exceptional
position on the Place de la Madeleine, its sublime decoration attributed
to The divine Alain might be a genius, who publicly "gave back" his three Michelin star a few years before the great economic recession, turning this "grande table" into a brasserie. Those once hesitating to push the entrance door, now can dine for a mere EUR 200. Three time "cheaper" than before. But if the food is still worth two Michelin star, the design went properly indigestible: the Art Nouveau items (chairs, ceiling...) have been covered with neutral, whiter shade of pale fabrics, transforming this glorious landmark into what we would compare with a business class airport lounge... The first floor "petits salons" look like meeting rooms... The Japanese guests don't know from which angle they might or not take a picture... Where is the anticipating staff? Gone also! The place has indeed skimped on the service When the atmosphere vanished, to our great disappointment, we were happy to see that what we got for EUR 150 (including wine!) was worth the visit to the new Senderens. Though the Thick slice of half-smoked salmon cucumber and green apple flavoured with pistou sauce and wasabi was average (we would have been served similar dish in any Bib Gourmand restaurant up-country), we got satisfied with the harmonious and refreshing Riesling "Kabinett", R. Von Kesselstatt 2007 - Mosel-Saar-Ruwer associated to the fish. The Crusty crawfish, coriander and herb was much more brilliant; reminiscent of the Lucas Carton epoch. Our Anjou "Les Bonnes Blanches" 2007 - A. et R. Mosse was great also. The Filleted breast of duck and its leg in pastilla, with a glass of Saumur "Eolithe" 2006, Château de Fosse Sèche, reflected Alain Senderens maestria in cooking duck: one of his favorite delights. After a refreshing, though quite plain Iced "verrine" of pineapple & coriander, we got a fair Raspberries lace biscuits and crispy pistachio ice cream. It came with a glass of atypical Ze Bulle - Zéro Pointé by Mrs. And Mr. Gourdon: a surprising rosé, sparkling (we would rather say: effervescent) liquid, showing a low degree of alcohol (7.5%). Who cares wether or not this is actually wine? Amazingly acidulated, and finally perfect with our dessert, it is worth the try. All in one, Senderens remains a good choice for those looking for a pleasant culinary experience in Paris; though orthodox gourmets can still find plenty of more conservative and ritzy restaurants in Paris for quite a similar bill. Closed at lunch time on Saturday and Monday (opened at dinner time). Closed Sunday, all day, and three first weeks in August. G.M
LIDO
(****): The eye-popping revue “Bonheur”,
the most expensive show in Europe –and maybe in the world- features over
80 performers in France is the country of gastronomy, and those visiting the Lido should not forget that this is also certainly one of the best restaurants in Paris. We found two advantages in dinning there. First of all, it actually seemed to us that the best seats –in the middle, not to close nor too far to the stage- are assigned to the dinners. Which is quite understandable, as they are first served at 7pm, listening to glamorous, jazzy live music, while the other spectators arrive much latter, to attend the show at 9:30pm. Second advantage: the chef, Philippe Lacroix, managing 35 cooks and pastry cooks, is fantastic. What could be a huge tourist trap, is in fact an amazingly pleasant and good value for money gastronomic table. We had chosen the “Service Premier”, because it lavishly featured delicacies like “Lobster à la Parisienne“, and vintage Champagne: ours was a fresh, pleasantly nutty remarkable “R de Ruinart Brut, 1999”); two other offers (menu “Bonheur” at EUR 195 and “Panache” at EUR 160) were also attractive, and seemed to satisfy our neighbors who opted for more simplicity. We had lobster again one day later in a two star Michelin; it was quite similar to the one we enjoyed at the Lido, where the portion was larger. It came with a fragrant sauce with coral, refreshing, pleasantly seasoned Rucolla, pistachio and pearl barley salad. As a main dish, we liked very much the “Tournedos of Charolais beef”, extracted from the very best section of the fillet, that we had medium-rare, amazingly tender, served with green asparagus puff, Périgueux sauce. The ”Crunchy-Lido' coated in dark, bitter chocolate was perfect with one more glass of still perfectly well chilled Champagne (the waiter added more ice twice during the dinner and the show!). For each dish, the disposition on the plate was elegant and somehow inventive. Despite of the large number of guests attending the show that night, we had the impression to receive a very unique treatment. Not only from part of the gifted chef, but also from the staff: polite, friendly, efficient, not to say anticipating, despite being under considerable pressure to serve everyone. A lady left her bag beside the table when living the ballroom; despite of the semi-obscurity, the waiter could identify the owner, and notify her with a smile that she was forgetting her belonging. Very professional, indeed! The "Service Premier" represents more than an upgraded menu: introduced in 2007 to improve the prestige of the Lido among VIP visitors, it comes with a with a range of extremely dedicated services: personalized welcome (actually you don't need to stand in the long queue to get in, thanks to the fast track pass!), free cloakroom, aperitif served at your table or at the bar, complimentary program, reserved individual table in the VIP row, "privileged service", water and coffee. One critic? Indirectly, yes: the non-smoking policy -actually influenced by a new French law- will please 70% of the guests. Which is fine. Nevertheless, a smoking corner is missing. One night in The Lido without a good cigar is lacking something. The dress
code is casual elegant; in the dinning section, guests tend to be quite
smart, though the friendly staff closes an indulgent eye on the wave of
tourists wearing tee shirts and jeans attending the second 11:30pm show.
We nevertheless recommend you to wear the appropriate attire: just to perpetuate
the legend of the ritzy, romantic Lido.
G.M
LIDO:
116 bis avenue des Champs Elysées, 75008 Paris
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our critical reviews of the best deluxe, charming and palace hotels in
Paris
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restaurants
in Paris. Chef Eric Frechon, winner of the 1993 Meilleur Ouvrier de
France (=Best French Handicraftsman) award for culinary art, renews
thrice a year his "Grande Carte": with the freshest ingredients,
and most sophisticated combinations of savours. Where flavours, spices
and fresh herbs enrich meat and fish with a noble French origin and prestigious
labels.
his
lieutenant Josselin Herland is one of the most brilliant anywhere. Its
members put ail their heart into their work and their preparations are
remarkable, both in the precision of their execution and for their originality.
The products are selected with extreme care, when they are not supplied
exclusively to the 
marches
on, more splendid than ever. Jean-Louis Nomicos, a close associate of Alain
Ducasse for years, presents a prix fixe that skillfully reconciles tradition
and modernity. Priority is given to produce, and everything here is a question
of balance, as evinced by truffle and foie gras macaroni. The Breton
lobster in classic simmered stew seasoned with honey, chestnuts and
rosemary is always a must, but turbot in a crust of black truffle, artichokes
and green pea purée is today's true event. The pigeon served
with seasonal fruits and vegetables is to cooking what a Rembrandt is to
painting, but you may prefer the milk-fed veal chops with lemon
and ginger cream sauce. The chocolaté soufflé is splendid.
The service is fully what you would expect from such a noble establishment,
and the check reflects that magnificence. The sommelier's name is Antoine
Petrus, which already gives food for thought. When the weather is fine,
the roof of the elegant dining room opens to the sky. The effect is magical
and never stales.
their
place, but must obviously still bring their cuisine into line with today's
tastes. This is exactly what recently demised Jean-Claude Vrinat asked
of the chefs at "his" Taillevent, a timeless (but not changeless) restaurant.
Alain Solivérès, a creative craftsman who trained with Maximin,
Ducasse and Cirino, has planned a prix fixe that seems traditional on first
sight. Only when it is explained by the master of the house do you realize
that nothing could be further from the truth. This is confirmed when Sault
spelt wheat risotto with browned frog's legs or John Dory fish
with olives arrive. The sunfîlled cuisine reaches its zenith with
lamb saddle in a reduction sauce seasoned with regional wild herbs.
The desserts, such as the feuille à feuille, a layered dessert
of three chocolates, or baba au rhum with liquor-soaked raisins
seem a million years old but still topical. The wine list is endless and
the setting—a Second Empire town house with contemporary art providing
interior decoration— exceptional, as is the service. The check rapidly
adds up, but this comes as no shock, since the restaurant is at the peak
of its achievements.
first
impression is of the table art. The contemporary style of the cutlery,
plates and glasses contrasts with the historic surroundings. The scene
is set by the dining room manager, Mathieu Foureau, and his young, dynamic
and extremely professional team. The most eagerly awaited artist remains
in the wings though. The 
usual
for La Tour. He bas finally left us, leaving his son André to run
his institution. Lovers of Paris should not worry, though: come hell or
high water, the Tour remains. We paid our visit just after Michelin took
away one of the restaurant's stars in a very well publicized move as chef
Jean-François Sicallac was handing over the reins to his lieutenant,
Stéphane Haïssant, a vétéran of Guérard,
Loiseau and Senderens, before going to run the Coquille in Concarneau.
We felt that the house cuisine had never been more effective. Admittedly,
no one visits the Terrails' establishment (which was already in vogue in
the 16th century) in search of trendy dishes that will be out of date as
soon as the latest fad has peaked, but rather for a master class in a great,
ambitious, classical tradition. In fact, the little appetizers, with mustard
beignets, and vigorous starters, such as médaillons of foie gras
with a sea urchin cream sauce, silky pike quenelles with mushroom
duxelles, duck with orange sauce served with crisp, twice-fried
potato puffs and spinach gratin, whole veal kidneys cooked rare,
garnished with crayfish and a Jura wine sauce and passion fruit and
guava parfait were actually at the height of their powers. We might
add that these marvels were a part of the lunchtime set menu, priced at
a levelheaded EUR 70.
that
is close to his heart. It has been a long time since critics questioned
the lack of red meat on his menu. This grandmaster of the vegetable has
won them ail over with his skills. Creativity, originality, sensitivity
and rigor are the everyday watchwords of this Breton trained by Kéréver,
Boyer, then Senderens, as he prepares dishes of breathtaking freshness
and vivacity. The lemon-infused sweet onion gratin, the thousand-and-one-flavors
of the vegetable from the morning's harvest, the Chausey island lobster
served thinly sliced and perfumed with Côtes-du-Jura wine and the
Breton monkfish with Orléans mustard are odes to nature's
gifts from the Mayenne, Finistère, Côtes d'Armor and Ile-et-Vilaine
regions. Then, for the launch of the 1998 vintage Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque:
raw scallops in a saffron velouté of zucchini blossoms, beechwood-smoked
potato with white Côtes-du-Jura wine. The names are simple, the
pleasures vast. If any doubts remain, sugar-coated young pigeon
with honey wine and the sweet-breads with licorice root provide
dazzling proof. Finally, what can we say about the desserts, except that
they too attain summits of refinement? The caramelized tomato stuffed
"with twelve flavors" refreshed with an orange sauce or the classic
millefeuille offer moments of delight in this trove of elegance and
serenity opposite the Rodin museum.
designed
by Wilmotte, the Bram Van Velde and Daniel Humair paintings and the African
statuettes seem to have stepped from the pages of a glossy magazine. However,
the service (unusually affable for such a superior establishment), the
wines presented by Eric Mancio, the head sommelier (who has written a number
of guides on the subject), and above all the brilliant, appealing cuisine
will soon have you feeling at home.
of
its team of great professionals and the arrival of a conscientious chef.
In the dining room, the good-humored Philippe Bourguignon welcomes regulars
and first-time visitors with equal courtesy. In the kitchen, Alain Pégouret,
who has worked with Joël Robuchon and Christian Constant, is at the
summit of his art, as shown by pan seared duck foie gras that opens
the proceedings. Beneath a classical exterior, red mullet filet
seasoned with saffron, bone marrow and caramelized shallot sauce is an
exceptionally modem dish. The Corrèze veal flank steak, simply
braised and presented with Swiss chard and a reduction sauce, is congenial
and tasty, while hot soufflé perfumed with Anis de Ponrarlier
is a highly successful confection. Patrick Lair always provides good advice
when the time comes to choose a wine. The price of ail this splendor is
reasonable, and there is a terrace for when the sun shines.
the
capital. Christian Le Squer's cuisine is in tune with these surroundings
as he consummately champions the colors of "his" Brittany, enchanting his
enthralled audience with oven-crisped langoustine served in a citrus
olive oil emulsion sauce. Straying a little further from the beaten path,
the concentré of assorted Belon and spéciales oysters
makes a succulent marine starter. Sobriety does not rule out a touch of
mischief, and the astute oven-crisped slices of filet of sole acquire
a somewhat Jurassic flavor, prepared as they are with Jura wine. The ingenious
sautéed spiced suckling pig with gnocchi and semi-dried tomatoes
seems native to the land of Brittany and is toothsome to a fault. For dessert,
thin crisp dark chocolaté sheets with iced pistachio milk
will have you swooning. The service is in the delicious style practiced
in bourgeois homes. The check climbs rather higher than Brittany's unspectacular
Arrée Mountains, but without giving undue offence.
illustrious
neighbour: Taillevent. Both restaurants come under same management: l’Angle
is therefore often called “l’annexe” (the annex) by its patrons:
some of them, attending once or twice a month formal business dinners in
the not less formal Taillevent, like to have relaxed, affordable lunch
at l’Angle.
parking:
Joël Robuchon's snack bar strays on the side of chic. Needless to
say, we are in the presence of grande cuisine, inspired by Joël the
First and implemented by his four assistants, Eric Lecerf, Philippe Braun,
Eric Bouchenoire and Antoine Hernandez, who alternately tend to the Table
de Joël Robuchon in the sixteenth arrondissement. A virtuoso display!
Sautéed squid with artichokes open the proceedings, followed
by a mackerel tart, deep-fried whiting, tuna belly, eggs with
caviar, milk-fed lamb from Pyrénées,
all executed with tremendous proficiency. If you still have a little room
left, the warm chartreuse soufflé with pistachio ice cream
(a house classic) will fill neatly. An impressive cellar of French, Italian,
Spanish, Californian and Austral wines, a produce-oriented tasting menu
and a choice of small or standard portions a la carte ingeniously complete
the range of this great restaurant's options.
Majorelle,
and its posh Parisian atmosphere had long time made Lucas Carton a brilliant
and most wanted attraction for rich gourmets. We will never forget our
previous visits, when the legendary chef Alain Senderens was still the
marshal of an army of seven sommeliers, and when the most precious ingredients
and rare vintage wines came on our well surrounded table.
a
brilliant cabaret atmosphere, with impressive special stage effects.
The leading show-girl (Swedish singer and dancer Anki Albertsson) lands
on the scene in a scaled private jet, skaters glide on the ice, and the
Bluebell Girls illuminate our dream with their million dollars feathers
costumes and elegant, faultless choreography. “Ca c’est Paris!”,
as the French use to say.
