  OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN PARIS: Updated
28/11/2007
LE
BRISTOL (Eric Frechon) (*****L): With two
Michelin star, this is one of the top five hotel Visiting the "Grande Carte" sounds a temptation. Our "Homard Breton", blue lobster from Brittany (considered the best in the world), served with curried cucumber, milded by a generous touch of coconut milk, was aristocratic. Great texture, showing a perfect freshness. Great taste. Somehow influenced by the royal Thai cuisine. Well worth its EUR 69, this is a must! It is also available under a second, very attractive version: beech wood smoked, with peas mousseline, and lobster heads infused in wild mushroom juice... Euro 95; and well worth this price. A hard to forget delicacy. Alternatively, we would like to recommend the "Tourteau de Roscoff" (EUR 58): king crab from Brittany, served with pressed tomato, avocado flesh, and a divine tarragon infused coral. Or the "Langoustines de Guilvinec": served in a generous portion, they have been cautiously roasted with citrus thyme, onions and mango jam, then perfumed with a light citrus juice (EUR 80). Caviar is never very imaginative; except in Le Bristol: we had our "Osetra from the Caspian Sea" (EUR 98), with shellfish stock and sea lettuce, served with a cauliflower mousse. The association of the imperial caviar with the working class cauliflower was amazingly surprising: inventive, and actually appealing to the most spoiled palate. Of course one could hardly miss the "Macaronis Truffés" (EUR 55): Macaroni stuffed with artichoke, duck liver, gratinated with aged Parmesan: a specialty which made Eric Frechon world famous. Delicious with a glass of Champagne, those appetizers could also be much -not to say more!- enjoyed with a well chilled white wine. Like this "Condrieu 2002, Les Terrasses de l'Empire, Domaine Georges Vernays" which pleased our palate very much during our previous visit. Or with this wonderful, fragrant white "Sancerre, Le Chêne Marchand 2002" (EUR 50) that we enjoyed during our last inspection, in August 2007. Both wines perfectly matched the fish we ordered as a main course. Our "Saint-Pierre du Petit Bateau" (John Dory fish), with pickled lemon, sautéed squid and zucchini, mildly perfumed with precious aromatic sweet pepper from Espelette, was well worth the visit. A large portion goes for EUR 62. Alternatively, try the succulent "Bass from the Isle of Yeu" (EUR 85), smoothered with an oyster tartar, accompanied with charlotte potatoes mashed with flat leaves parsley juice. Meat is also served very generously. Like the "Poitrine de Cochon Fermier" (Belly of Pork) (EUR 60) or the "Barbecued Country Bacon" (EURO 61), roasted charlotte, herbs salad, with mustard seeds extracts : Eric Frechon likes to introduce so called "proletarian" -we would say: "bistrot"- products (pork, but also whiting or "Calf's Head": the most surprising in Paris, presented rolled, slightly crunchy, and spiced with capers and... anchovies!) to an elitist clientele of rich gourmets, familiarized with caviar and truffle. A risky, but successful game: the result comes perfect. Our pork was brought to our table on a trolley, still smocking over the gridiron, served with purple artichokes steamed with mustard leaves. Astonishingly not that fat, juicy and ideally spiced, we would like to recommend it to those with a hearty appetite. The "Filet d'Agneau de l'Aveyron" (Fillet of Lamb) is a good alternative: cooked with fresh herbs, almost melting under our tongue, it came into our plate with a delicious accompaniment: garlic croquettes, and zucchini jam ideally balanced with the fragrant essences of olive and basil (EUR 59). Or the "Suckling Veal Sweetbreads" (EUR 79), braised with dried fennel, carrots with gingerbread and lemon, and its cooking juice: a delicacy. We had it all with a "Saumur Rouge 2001, Foucault, Domaine du Collier, La Ripaille": pulpy, fruity, pleasant and easy to drink. Good value also (EUR 60). We have been too often disappointed by deserts, in those ritzy palace hotel restaurants. Which was not the case at Le Bristol. Assisted by a remarkable pastry cook (Laurent Jeannin, well trained in the hotels Crillon and George V), Eric Frechon brought to his menu splendid specialties. We took the classic, chic and very Parisian "Soufflé Chaud au Grand Marnier, Cuvée du Cent Cinquantenaire": a warm souffléed, precious vintage Grand Marnier flavoured, with orange and lemon sorbet, "Pain de Gênes" (sweet Italian Ginger Bread). At EUR 25, you cannot miss it, indeed. We can also recommend the "Abricots rôtis au Lait d'Amande" (EUR 22): roasted apricots, with almond milk, crumble, hot chocolate, and Amaretto ice-cream. Succulent. Not available all year long, "La Petite Gaufre aux Fraises des Bois" (Wild Strawberry Waffle), is divinely light. Those looking for absolute originality can order the "Fresh Fruits Sorbet" (EURO 20), very classical at first sight, with its fresh milk and cream scoops, and blonde meringue... but served on a nitrogen cloud bubbling and fumigating from bellow the cup. Sometimes, El Bulli and his alchemist influence is not far away from the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré... Note that the bread is so wonderful at Le Bristol, that it is exported as far away as... the Royal Palace in Bangkok! The selection which came to our table is the richest we have seen anywhere in Paris. Try that one with natural sea salt... unforgettable. Last but not least, we would like to mention -and warmly recommend- the world famous "Poularde de Bresse au vin de Château Châlon, cuite en Vessie" (Hen Chicken from the Bresse): honouring the much awarded AOC Bresse chicken. This is, together with the blue lobster and the "Macaronis Truffés", the highlights of a prestigious selection. It comes cooked in a bladder (the essence of the steamed wine make it so tender, so tasty, so... unique!), with crayfish, variety meats and actually royal black truffle. Superlative! The "Poularde" is the most expensive meal, at EUR 210 (for two peoples); but who minds the price at LE BRISTOL?! Moreover when comes the wine: LE BRISTOL has one of the best wine cellars in France, with exquisite and rare Pomerol Pétrus 1953, Château Yquem 1982, Corton Charlemagne 1992 and many others which are not systematically grands crus but tasty and sometime unforgettable regional wines. With more than 30,000 bottles, it is impossible not to please one's personal taste and budget. Conclude your dinner with a Louis XIII or, good value for money at EUR 55, with a glass of Bas Armagnac Laberdolive 1962: a pure marvel. Simply great with a Partagas or a Romeo y Julieta... until the French repressive laws might ban this gourmet pleasure in public places, including five star restaurants! One more originality at LE BRISTOL: their restaurant moves twice a year from a room to another inside the hotel, depending on the season. We do love the Winter Restaurant: plush, ritzy, just splendid, operating from November until April in an oval room that was, in the XIXth century, Jules de Castellane's private theatre. It is adorned with magnificent Regency hand-carved woodworking in Hungarian oak. Its glass roof is highlighted with gold leaf, and set off by panels painted by Gustave-Louis Jaulmes that festooned the Pleyel room of the Chaillot palace. A magnificent XVIIIth century tapestry from the Lille Manufacture completes the decor, which is also complemented by crystal chandeliers and a unique game table by Trehern. From May until April, the Summer Restaurant opens to the largest hotel grounds existing in the capital. When the sun shines, this is THE place to feel away from Paris stressing life: sitting among the magnolia, honeysuckle and rhododendron, with birds whistling for your ears only. Unique
and warmly recommended.
LE
BRISTOL (at HOTEL LE BRISTOL ):
112, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 75008 Paris
SEE OUR
SPECIAL REPORT ABOUT THE HOTEL LE BRISTOL
L'ORANGERIE
– MICHEL DEL BURGO (****L): Chef Del Burgo
is often too quickly summarized in numbers (three Michelin stars with Taillevent)
and labels: once Ducasse, La Tiny, unimpressive at first sight, L'Orangerie is a « grand restaurant » where we felt at ease on the spot. The design is smart, though not flashy: nothing could divert our attention from the plate. We liked the unilateral disposition of the tables, and found it warm, very Parisian: favourizing the contact with the neighbour (all as friendly as gourmets should be...). Some clients don't like it; maybe this proximity could spoil a business discussion? In that case, it would be easy to book a separate table, close to the firework, where Gabin and Delon liked to seat. We started our dinner with the «Whole « Landais » Duck Liver, Confit Old Style» (EUR37), is a favourite. Del Burgo masters brilliantly this specialty since decades, and served it to the most distinctive gourmets from Paris till Queen Sirikit palace in Bangkok. It comes with a fresh figs spice chutney, and cottage bread. Simple at first sight; magic and sophisticated in the mouth... The sommelier wisely advised us to keep on with the fig aroma, ordering a «Coteaux du Layon, Jo Pithon»: a semi-sweet white wine, produced close to Saumur, along the Layon river, with a subtle taste of honey, acacia and fig. Very aromatic. Another recommended appetizer: the «Paris Mushrooms & Luberon Truffles Ravioles, sauce Fleurette and infused Cep» (EUR 33). Associating the common, cultivated « Paris mushroom », with the highly aristocratic truffle and the fragrant cep, comes out to a sympathetic and original fusion, emphasized by a glass of «Clos Mireille, Domaine Ott, Cotes de Provence». This young, lively Blanc de Blanc AOC shows roundness, suppleness, with a subtle taste of honey, spices and wild flowers. Del Burgo soul always went South. This is the reason why he knows how to instinctively cook selected wild sea fish and seafood. Without any artifact, but with a signature. As a main dish, you can't miss the «Fillet of John Dory Plancha, Simmered Fennel, Dill and Pickled Lemon, braised Vanilla Essence» (EUR 42). We knew the excellent lobster-vanilla association (Alain Senderens made his reputation out of it); it is equally perfect with the John Dory, whose texture was reflecting a fresh and ideally prepared fish. Wonderful! Have it with a glass of Champagne (much affordable at EUR 15), or keep on with the «Clos Mireille». We were recommended the «Milk-fed Veal Chop Casserole» (EUR 84, for 2). The flesh came rosé and ideally juicy, with carefully crystallized red onions, almond-honey glazed baby carrots, shallot and parsley juice. A splendid fusion, faultless, and worth being enjoyed with a «Château de Saint-Cosme 2004, Gigondas Cuvee Valbelle»: intensive, well balanced, boasting sumptuous aromas of smoke, blackberries, cherry liqueur, and licorice. This light, superlative dinner was punctuated by a refreshing and original «Season Fruit and Vegetable Minestrone, with a Basil touch, served with its Citron Sorbet» (EUR 18) (or alternatively a Tomato / Olive Oil sorbet, depending on the season and chef humour). Perfect with one glass of sweet, aromatic «Muscat de Rivesaltes». This all makes a Grand Chef's table affordable at more or less EUR 150 per person, with a good bottle of AOC wine. You will pay little bit more if you select the warmly recommended «Menu Confiance»: five courses, featuring the daily specialties, at EUR 130, without wine. Del Burgo, well decided to bring L'Orangerie to the top, is more and more present in Paris (remaining a frequent flyer on Aeroflot...), and promised he would correct the restaurant unique default: the quite cold, impersonal staff attitude. Hopefully, Conchita, Del Burgo friendly wife, stays here every evening to bring back the warmth associated to his brilliant husband's cuisine. A splendid
experience in one of Paris Top 10 best tables. Warmly recommended.
L'ORANGERIE
– MICHEL DEL BURGO: 28 r St Louis en l'Ile 75004 PARIS
LUCAS
CARTON (Alain Senderens) (****L): Its exceptional position
on the Place de la Madeleine, its sublime decoration attributed to Marshal of an army of seven "sommeliers", Alain Senderens protects our best "Châteaux", but, and we like it , also defends these wonderful not so famous regional wines. He himself also works as a wine-grower in Puy-l'Evêque , producing natural and gentle Cahors. We particularly enjoyed his "Château Gautoul, cuvée Petit Château" 1995, which came us with "tapas" (to be sophisticated say "amuses-bouches"), like this exquisite "Beurek" made of crispy puff paste. The Fillet of Red-Mullet with Olives, Lemon and Capers was a complete success, served with a tasty miniature bread perfumed with fennel. The home-made bakery in LUCAS CARTON is one of the best in Paris. Another recommended appetiser is the Warm Duck-Liver "Landais" in its Cabbage Leaf. It came in our plate deliciously "rosé", with both ideal savour and texture. This is a speciality by Senderens. We enjoy you to enjoy it with a glass of "Jurançon, domaine Cauhapé, H. Ramonteu" 1985, smelling little bit like fresh honey: it somehow remembered us the Hungarian Tokay. Though we were quite tempted as a main meal by the famous Apicius Duck Roasted with Honey and Spices (based on an antique Roman recipe), we rather selected the Roasted Kernivinen Pigeon with Jammed Onions, Crystallised Lemons, Turnips and Cinnamon. We fully enjoyed this sophisticated mixture, while the smooth pigeon delighted our Palate. Here came back the vine-grower Senderens, with his "Château du Gautoul" 1993, rich, with an emphasised taste of wood barrel. This was a good choice with that course. If you hesitate between cheese and dessert, do like us: take both. The association cheese/wine is the ideal way to enjoy the huge selection proposed in LUCAS CARTON. Japanese guests are mad with the Epoisses from Burgundy, deliciously ripened. We enjoyed the Gruyere from Friburg -the unique imported cheese available in the tray- going divinely well with a glass of "Côte du Jura" 1991. Shortly matured in a oak-barrel, it had got a slight savour old Sherry. We finished with a delicate pastry: a Chocolate Cake with melted Bitter-Almond Cream, coming with a glass of "Pineau François Ier, domaine Gaston Rivière". The comfortable bill is justified by the wonderful quality of the meals. It can even be miraculous if you choose the "Business Lunch" whose price was last summer, approximately USD 55. Let's say that, with wine, it will increase to USD 80 up. Where could we find better value ? Perhaps upstairs, in the very exclusive "Club" with restricted access to Alain Senderens pals... But don't dream, please: it takes time and influential friends to be part of it. And some money also... Closed at lunch time on Saturday and Monday (opened at dinner time). Closed Sunday, all day, and three first weeks in August. For those who like the haute cuisine as a 8th art. NB: Our hereby published inspection was made in July 2004. Lucas Carton changed its name in 2005 into SENDERENS. Same owner, same chef; but redesigned into a "bistrot" with a trendy and quite cool concept. The menu and wine list tend to get "cheaper" (we would prefer to say "more affordable")... In our Autumn 2007 edition, you will be able to discover our new impression. We had yet good feedbacks, and therefore still recommend the place until further notice. LUCAS
CARTON (Alain Senderens) : 9, place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris.
L’ANGLE
DU FAUBOURG (Jean-Claude Vrinat) (****): L'Angle du Faubourg opened
its doors in April 2001. Two hundred meters from its Let’s call the not-so-impressive, Spoon-style design of the dinning room, “trendy”. It allegedly creates an atmosphere inspired by the soil of the vineyard. Minimalist, it has at least the advantage not to distract the gourmet from the delicacies he indeed finds in his plate. The cuisine is inventive; thus respecting the main basis of the French tradition. The menu was developed to put the accent on matching food and wine. Changed every six weeks, it offers six first courses, five main courses and five desserts. The attractive fixed price menu ("Menu d'Un Jour"), at EUR 35, available both for lunch and dinner, changes on a daily basis. For this unbeatable price, we had a Cold Salmon Fillet from the best origin, with slightly acid French dressing. Then came a Leg of Young Rabbit, braised with “prune wine”. Dessert was a “Blanc-Manger” (sort of upgraded cheese-cake) with strawberries. Much better than in any bistro all around. Much more imaginative and, shall we repeat it, amazingly good value for money. Even with some wine (about EUR 7 only for almost all wines sold by the glass)! A la carte, not much more expensive than the menu (if you take two courses), we liked very much the “Velouté de Tomate rafraîchi au Basilic” (cream of tomatoes cooled with basil) (EUR 10), quite similar to a Gazpacho. More sophisticated, nevertheless. Served with a sweet basil sorbet: creating a nice balance with the sour taste of the tomato. Alternatively, the “Lomo de Thon rôti aux Epices” (EUR 17) was aristocratic: this is the back fillet of a wild tuna fish, roasted with spices, served mild in the plate. As a main course, order the “Filet de Rouget à la Plancha” (EUR 22) : red mullet, grilled with odorant fresh thyme. Light, elegant, well textured, it makes you feel like at the seaside. To finish your lunch, don’t expect a whole cheeseboard featuring all the “Fromages de France”; cheese at L’Angle is reduced to a choice between three categories, sold out separately (you cannot mix) at EUR 8. The day of our visit we could have, either a fresh Cabecou, with honey vinegar, either a Saint-Nectaire Fermier, either a royal Roquefort, with a juice made out of a Banyuls wine. We preferred to have desert, and were finally well inspired. The “Ravioles de Betterave aux Fruits Rouges” (EUR 10) are actually inventive. Pleasant and interesting to the palate, this is a sweet gelled layer of beetroot jam, filled with sour berries. Served with a sorbet of fromage frais, we found it unforgettable. The wine list was prepared from a choice of wines from Les Caves Taillevent, featuring 200 references. The sommelier (who was a nice lady sommelière), advised a “Côte du Rhône 2001, Blanc de Blanc, Domaine Delubac”: ideal with the whole lunch, we took it by the glass (EUR 7). Chilled, aromatic, it fitted well the Mediterranean inspiration of this light, pleasant cuisine. One Michelin star. Closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
Closed from July 26th to August 26th 2007.
L'ANGLE
DU FAUBOURG: 195, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
PINXO
(****): This smart though cool restaurant
is supervised by 2 Michelin star chef Alain Dutournier. A short walk from
his world famous “Carré des Feuillants”, he developed in the We liked the Zen, accommodating modern dining room in black, plum, and dark wood, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon and painter-sculptor Alberto Bali, with its open kitchen. This is where the Tapas-like dishes are prepared with dexterity, then brought to your table by a friendly and anticipating staff, wearing black kimonos which might surprise at first sight. Luckily, they won't offer you those terrible «Suchi» available everywhere round the world nowadays, but the best beef («race Blonde d’Aquitaine»), goose, rabbit, pastas or sea-food you would ever dream of. We found the «Steam Cooked Vegetables & Large Prawns in a Broth with Garden Herbs» palatable. This is a reasonable starter at EURO 15. Alternatively, try the «Roll of Fresh King Crab, Salad, Soya Beans, Mint, Chopped Peanuts» (Euro 20), which is a chef's -and guests'!- favourite. It has certainly been inspired by one of his numerous trips and long stays in South East Asia. Another favourite: the very tender «Aquitaine Beef Sirloin Steak, Mashed Potato with Green Onion» (Euro 22). Desserts are as light as imaginative. Like the «Strawberries, White Chocolate Sabayon & Sponge Biscuit» (Euro 10). « Backed Alaska Grand-Marnier Pancakes » (Euro 11). Together, with wine that can be ordered by the glass (Euro 5,5 for a most pleasant AOVDQS « Sauvignon de Marigny-Neuf 2004, Frédéric Brochet ») and coffee, guests tend to pay about Euro 50. This is certainly why « Pinxo » is regarded like a "canteen" by many executives or fashion designers working in this posh area. Open seven
days a week.
PINXO:
9, rue d'Alger 75001 Paris
LIDO
(****): The eye-popping revue “Bonheur”, the
most expensive show in Europe –and maybe in the world- features over 80
performers in a brilliant cabaret atmosphere, with France is the country of gastronomy, and those visiting the Lido should not forget that this is also certainly one of the best restaurants in Paris. We found two advantages in dinning there. First of all, it actually seemed to us that the best seats –in the middle, not to close nor too far to the stage- are assigned to the dinners. Which is quite understandable, as they are first served at 7pm, listening to glamourous, jazzy live music, while the other spectators arrive much latter, to attend the show at 9:30pm. Second advantage: the chef, Philippe Lacroix, managing 35 cooks and pastry cooks, is fantastic. What could be a huge tourist trap, is in fact an amazingly pleasant and good value for money gastronomic table. We ordered the “Champs Elysées” set menu, at EUR 200 per person. Because there was lobster and vintage Champagne (ours was a remarkable “Pommery, Grand Cru 1995”); the two other offers (menu “Bonheur” at EUR 170 and “Plaisir” at EUR 140) were also attractive, and seemed to satisfy our neighbours who opted for more simplicity. We had lobster again one day later in a two star Michelin; it was quite similar to the one we enjoyed at the Lido, where the portion was larger. It came with a refreshing, pleasantly seasoned Rucolla, pistachio and pearl barley salad. As a main dish, we liked very much the Chateaubriand, extracted from the very best section of the fillet, that we had medium, amazingly tender, served with a rich and fragrant morel cream. The “Delice de Chocolat” (bitter black and sweet milk chocolate fondant, with a scoop of ice cream) was perfect with one more glass of still perfectly well chilled Champagne (the waiter added more ice twice during the dinner and the show!). For each dish, the disposition on the plate was elegant and somehow inventive. Despite of the large number of guests attending the show that night, we had the impression to receive a very unique treatment. Not only from part of the gifted chef, but also from the staff: polite, friendly, efficient, not to say anticipating, despite being under considerable pressure to serve everyone. A lady left her bag beside the table when living the ballroom; despite of the semi-obscurity, the waiter could identify the owner, and notify her with a smile that she was forgetting something. Very professional, indeed! The new "Service Premier" was introduced in 2007, to improve even more the prestige of the Lido. We didn't experience it yet; it seems that it is replacing the described "Champs Elysées" menu, with a range of extremely dedicated services: personalized welcome, free cloackroom and pass, aperitif served at your table or at the bar, reserved individual table, "privileged service", water and coffee. Foie gras, lobster and beef "Charolais" on the menu. And of course 1/2 bottle of brand-name vintage Champagne. One critic? Indirectly, yes: the non-smoking policy -actually influenced by a new French law- will please 70% of the guests. Which is fine. Nevertheless, a smoking corner is missing. One night in The Lido without a good cigar is lacking something. The dress
code is casual elegant; in the dinning section, guests tend to be quite
smart. Nevertheless, the friendly staff closes an indulgent eye on the
wave of tourists wearing tee shirts and jeans attending the second 11:30pm
show. We nevertheless recommend you to wear the appropriate attire: just
to perpetuate the legend of the ritzy, romantic Lido.
LIDO:
116 bis avenue des Champs Elysées, 75008 Paris
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  FIRST
CLASS AROUND THE WORLD |
restaurants
in Paris. Chef Eric Frechon, winner of the 1993 Meilleur Ouvrier de
France (=Best French Handicraftsman) award for culinary art, renews
thrice a year his "Grande Carte": with the freshest ingredients,
and most sophisticated combinations of savours. Where flavours, spices
and fresh herbs enrich meat and fish with a noble French origin and prestigious
labels.
Barbacanne,
Le Bristol, Taillevent, and now Le Duc and Café Poushkine in Moscow,
where this extravagant personality is considered the best chef in town.
Always on the move, buoyant, actually gifted, Del Burgo collects awards...
and enemies. His international fame spoiled his local image in the «
unite family » of French gastronomic critics. Taking over L'Orangerie,
made famous by French actor Jean-Claude Brialy, attended by jet setters,
was a real challenge. This splendid address with a name comes like a gift
for Del Burgo: after tearing up the infamous brasserie-style menu inherited
from Brialy, building brand new kitchens, refurbishing the lovely dinning
room, rejuvenating a place which was looking like a morgue, it is
time to seduce the gourmets... and to convince the critics that the Chef
is back home!
Marjorelle,
and its Parisian posh atmosphere should have made LUCAS CARTON a successful
attraction for rich not-gourmet Texan tourists. But Alain Senderens saved
it from such decadence, brought "LUCAS its prestigious three Michelin star,
and developed in this sumptuous laboratory scientific experiences to co-ordinate
meals and wines.
illustrious
neighbour: Taillevent. Both restaurants are owned by Jean-Claude Vrinat:
l’Angle is therefore often called “l’annexe” (the annex) by its
patrons: some of them, attending once or twice a month formal business
dinners in the not less formal Taillevent, like to have relaxed, affordable
lunch at l’Angle.
impressive
special stage effects. The leading showgirl (German singer and dancer Diana)
“lands” on the scene in a scaled private jet, skaters glide on the ice,
and the Bluebell Girls illuminate our dream with their million dollars
feathers costumes and elegant, faultless choreography. “Ca c’est Paris!”,
as the French say.
