By Gilles Malaisé
Contemporary and stylish, the Grand Hotel
Kempinski Geneva ranks amongst of the top 5 palace hotels in Geneva.
Majestically situated on the lake, in the chic and safe heart of Geneva
Triangle of Gold, this large property (412 rooms, including 33 suites)
might lack of charm at first sight. Further inspection, followed by a
short stay, proved us that this is much more than a well structured and
efficient business hotel; but a destination in itself.
Since September 2010, hotel guest can use «Le Spa». A clever mixture of
Swiss and Asian well-being, the largest spa in Geneva, boasting 1,400m²
across two luxurious levels, offers a perfectly balanced menu of
authentic, healing Ayurvedic therapies from India, and beautifying
treatments. We experienced this refined complex, creating a natural
ambiance of tranquillity in contemporary Asian and Arabian
surroundings, with an Oriental massage performed by a Swiss masseuse
trained two years in Thailand: pampered one hour in one of the 12 large
treatment rooms. Chic and zen, the SPA and its treatments get it all to
please spoiled clients: using exclusively award-winning Cinq Mondes
massages, aromatherapy and cosmetics inspired by ancient cultures. This
reputed brand used during the treatments is tested under
dermatological control, and does not contain silicone, artificial
coloring, animal-based raw materials nor mineral oil. The
Cinq Mondes cosmetic preparations benefit from the effectiveness of
plant extracts from the pharmacopoeia of the country of origin, whilst
guaranteeing total safety. The treatment prices are relatively
affordable. We are in Geneva, one of the most expensive cities in the
world: CHF 175 (approximately EUR 145) for our massage seems
reasonable; though, some packages including hotel room and treatment
might drastically reduce the bill. Last but not least, «Le Spa» is completed with a state-of-the-art fitness centre, a hammam and the largest private indoor pool in Geneva (free of charge for hotel guests).
The best souvenir we are keeping from the hotel is gastronomic. Breakfast made us much impression: one of the best ever experienced in Europe, with a rich buffet, freshly squeezed 100% natural orange and strawberry juices, delicious backed pretzels and delectable scrambled eggs cooked and individually presented in « Le Creuset » cast-iron casseroles. That was the icing on the cake: we visited the hotel in summer time, and could sit in the terrace designed like the deck of a luxurious yacht: starting a working or leisure day in such an environment, looking at the old steamers transiting over the Lake, with the Mont Blanc as a background, is a visual and sensual pleasure. This all was a nice introduction to the unexpected quality of the cuisine at “FloorTwo”, which we visited again for lunch. Choosing the “Daily Special”, featuring starter, main course and dessert for CHF 48 (EUR 38 / approximately EUR 50 with one glass of wine and a coffee): a bargain in a five star hotel. The cuisine reflects a solid Mediterranean influence: with a fine selection of fish and seafood, meats grilled over the charcoal, but also lots of fresh vegetables and salads. We loved the “Grilled Cuttlefish with its Squid-Ink Black Rice”. The “Lemon Meringue Tart” is a classic and classy dessert by pastry chef Arnaud Vodounou which you might find permanently in the carte; most of the other dishes are regularly updated, according to the season and the ingredients freshly purchased from the market. We were not in Paris nor New York: the lunch service was cool, and we could take plenty of time to treat ourselves and relax. With a lot of returning guests, this is a simple, enjoyable, and particularly pleasant table.
One step beyond in quality and price, “Le Grill” is the gastronomic, signature
restaurant at Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneva. More trendy than ritzy,
with a sophisticated though discreet design, a beautiful open-kitchen,
and a gorgeous lake view. From the Dorchester in London to La Cantine
des Gourmets or Guy Savoy in Paris, Executive Chef James Norman
(assisted in “Le Grill” by Chefs Rodolphe Collet and Steven Pique)
supervised 12 different restaurants in Dubai, and was also responsible
for the Royal Families official functions and events attended by world
dignitaries and Heads of State. He joined the Grand Hotel Kempinski
Geneva in June 2011: a good piece of news in a city which, until then,
didn't take its reputation from gastronomy. The high level of service,
the sophisticated display of the dishes and the alchemy of the cuisine
transported us to the best Parisian restaurants. Specialities like the
“Octopus Carpaccio with a Crispy Squid-Ink Chip, Vegetables Marinated
with Ginger and Lemon”, “Wild John Dory «de ligne» from Brittany” or
the light, aromatic and exotic “Grilled Steak of Springbok, Sweet
Potato Purée with Peanuts Pinot Noir, Cloudy Bay Jus”, melting in our
palate, were just superb. We would travel back to Geneva, just to enjoy
the “Stingray, Chorizo Confit, sweet-sour sorrel emulsion”: the best
meal we had since our last visit to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
L'Etoile, in Paris, a few weeks before we experienced “Le Grill”, where
we found the same simplicity in producing perfectly balanced, ideally
cooked and finally unique dishes. The selection of wines was perfectly
mastered by head sommelier Julien Authier, who introduced rare and
elegant vintages: we particularly enjoyed the red, bullish “Bodega
Numanthia Termes, Toro, Valdefinjas 2007” from Castilla y León, Spain.
Now a property of French group LVMH, this vineyard produces powerful,
yet impressive, red wines from the Tempranillo grape. It paired ideally
our Springbok, and would taste perfectly with meat grilled over the
charcoal. Fish was paired with the so classy “Moët & Chandon
But Imperial”. The Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneva works in a close
partnership with that brand, and is one of the rare places where one
could enjoy the quite girlish -maybe too sweet for our virile palate-
“Moët & Chandon Ice Imperial”. Served on the rocks,
like a cocktail, this limited edition is distributed to selected high
end restaurants in Switzerland, and France (Saint-Tropez and Paris).
The white bottle is nice looking, the liquid interesting and elegant:
we would recommend it as an aperitif, though it paired quite well our
dessert: a mouth watering “Strawberry & Rhubarb Mille Feuille,
Mara des Bois Smoothie”. The average bill for a la carte stands between
CHF 150 – 200 (EUR 125 – 165) with one or two glasses of wine and
coffee. The “Menu Prédéfini” is a good value alternative for a first,
and surely successful experience: starter, main course, dessert, a
glass of wine, mineral water, tea or coffee at CHF 90 (approximately
EUR 75). GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI
GENEVA: Quai du Mont-Blanc 19
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