L'ATELIER ROBUCHON - BEST GOURMET RESTAURANTS IN HONG KONG PR CHINA - By the travel journalists of FIRST CLASS AROUND THE WORLD - The Leading Deluxe Travel Magazine in the Internet

With a total of 26 Michelin Guide stars – the most of any chef in the world- including 2 stars for his outlet in Hong Kong, Robuchon has been titled “Chef of the Century”. One of his newest restaurants, L'Atelier (and the neighboring “Jardin de Joël Robuchon”), stands on the 4th floor of a luxurious shopping mall, in Honk Kong Central. One step from the five star Landmark hotel. The location could have been more romantic; but not more strategic. In a posh, well deserved business and shopping area, close to the embassies and government headquarter, it attracts the cream of the crop. Ranked number 5 out of more than 2900 Hong Kong restaurants by Tripadvisor, this is the place to see and to be seen. This is also the leading gourmet restaurant downtown, where we had a well worth the trip lunch in December 2010.

Those visiting L'Atelier between 12am and 3pm will feel like in Paris, London or New York: with a fine mix of Western and dressed to kill Asian guests the day of our visit, it made no difference at all with the gourmet society salon atmosphere we recently experienced in L'Atelier at Manhattan 57th street. After being led by a beautiful hostess (the rumor says that Robuchon employs a former Miss Hong Kong...) through the windowed cellar with a thousand of precious vintage bottles of wine, we sat at the large counter surrounding the sparkling open-kitchen. The show provided by the “brigade” is always exciting. The cooks and waiters operate a well orchestrated ballet. Joël Robuchon inspects the restaurant at least four times per year; letting his Executive Chef, the brilliant Michel Del Burgo, managing the operations with his legendary kindness and hidden authority. Two stars at La Barbacane (Carcassonne, France), Michel has treated the Gotha, statesmen and movie stars at Hotel Le Bristol and restaurant Taillevent Paris, where he received his third Michelin Star. Between 2007 and 2010, he developped some restaurants in Moscow (including the famous Café Pushkine), before joining his friend Robuchon for a brilliant Asian experience. He is one of the few chefs allowed to revisit the traditional Joël Robuchon's dishes; and, though the menu is more than 90% Robuchon, we sometime felt the pleasant Mediterranean, cheerful Del Burgo influence.

We ordered a glass of Champagne Bruno Paillard, Vintage 1999 (HK$ 325 / EUR 32), from the extensive wine list. Well chilled, displaying a deep color and a steady stream of pin-prick bubbles across the glass, this is Robuchon's favorite brand. It has plenty of savory, much depth and quite a good length. It was fine with our signature starter: a refreshing “Sea Urchin in a Lobster Jelly, Topped with a Cauliflower Cream” (HK$250 / EUR 25). Robuchon draws his inspiration from the simplicity of the Asian (and particularly Japanese) cuisine, with a careful eye to tradition. Leding his own way in creating a delicate style, respectful of natural food ingredients. This dish comes as a perfect illustration of his technique; even more illustrated by our “Cod Fish Fillet, Marinated in Sake and Mirin with Miso Sauce” (HK$190 / EUR 19). Another signature speciality, very much Japanese indeed, the generous piece of black cod came wrapped into an aromatic Kuba leaf. Benoît Allauzen, the French sommelier, has been original enough to suggest something else than Sake to match this delicacy; we got it with a glass of Californian Chardonnay “Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, 2001” (HK$ 400 / EUR 40). Bright, with pure aromas of lemon, flowers, mint, toasted grain, iodine and nutmeg, it was an dreamed pairing.

The meat was excellent. We ordered the “Warm duck foie gras with season’s fruits” (HK$ $380 / EUR 38). The cooking time had been ideally mastered, and our liver came perfect in flavor and texture: with fine spices developing a pleasant gingerbread aroma. The roasted pears, figs and plums accompanying the foie gras brought that dish to a supreme perfection. The chef showed the same good sense of produce, and a feel for the right taste, with the “Free-range Quail and Foie Gras”, served with mashed potato (HK$ 400 / EUR 40), which was our favorite dish. Exquisite with a glass of Pauillac “Château Grand-Puy Lacoste, 2000, grand cru classé, Société du Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste” (HK$ 400 / EUR 40). Its initial earthy aroma, gave way to dark fruit with a slight tobacco note. Great wine, indeed.

Some vegetarian meals are available. We would recommend the “Braised artichoke in Barigoule style with carrot, avocado and tomato» (HK$ 240 / EUR 24): refreshing, this light Mediterranean dish is one of Del Burgo's signatures. Superb with a glass of “Chateau Guiraud Sauternes 1er Cru 2001” (HK$ 260 / EUR 26), aged in barrels for 24 months.

Last, but not least, we have been spoiled by decadent, exquisite desserts! Tadashi Nakamura, the hottest pastry chef in town, distinguishes himself by a tireless obsession for perfection. An artist: he sculpts his dessert like unique masterpieces of art. An alchemist: he scrupulously keeps the original taste of very traditional specialities. Like the yummy “Mont-Blanc” (HK$150 / EUR 15) which we would like to warmly recommend. Much more savourous and refined than in Angelina, Paris! The peak came with the “Boule Surprise” (HK$150 / EUR 15): a classic by Robuchon, filled with fresh fruits, pistachio cream and caramelized spiced pear. So sweet, so good!

Depending on the daily offer, some of the described dishes can be found in the fairly priced “Lunch at your own composition” menu, starting from HK$ 398 (EUR 40) up to HK$638 (EUR 64). With French wine starting from HK$ 180 (EUR 18) by the glass. 10% service charge applies.

The pickiest eater will like that wonderful restaurant, where everything comes faultless. Robuchon operates a dozen restaurants in Paris, Monaco, London, New York City, Las Vegas, Macau (in Hotel Lisboa), Taipei, and Tokyo; Hong Kong remains one the finest versions of L'Atelier in the world, and would secure one more Michelin star, indeed.

NOTE: Since our visit in December 2010, Michel Del Burgo brought a third Michelin star to this restaurant (making it the highest rated Robuchon's property in the world). Del Burgo is currently opening his own restaurant in Carcasonne (France); Christian Ham is now the executive chef at D'Sens Bangkok.