Updated 17/06/2012 
 
 

VAN'S (*****): Our favourite restaurant in Phnom Penh stands 50 meters from the Sisowath Quay, on the provincial “place de la Poste” reflecting the nostalgic atmosphere of a dreamed French Indochina. Film makers shot some pictures on that square claiming numerous features that are not found anywhere else in the city. This is the starting point for all architecture tours in Phnom Penh. Erected 150 years ago, the former “Banque d'Indochine” is the most elegant, slightly arrogant building  on the square: this is also where Van's welcomes its guests since 2006. Property and residence of the Van family since 1960, confiscated by the communist regime during the Red Khmer, reinstituted in 2003 with the economic opening of the country, it has been restored in its former glory, giving attention to every detail. Most of the genuine red French tiles, original colored windows and beautiful wooden panels  have been saved: the authentic grandeur of the building, listed for the UNESCO heritage preservation awards in 2006, remains intact, and this one step inside Van's made us feel like travelling in time.

The ground floor used to be the Cambodian “Fort Knox”, concentrating the gold reserve of Prince Sihanouk's Kingdom; the safes have been converted into the management offices. Stairs brought us up to the main dinning room; once the bank governor's private reception room. Very atmospheric and classy, without any ostentation, displaying only a few tables, antique furniture and nice paintings by contemporary Cambodian artists, the restaurant reflects Porleng Van's good taste. Our hostess, general manager of the restaurant and owner of some lovely hotels (like the beautiful “Plantation”), was born in Cambodia, grown in Hong Kong, then educated in Paris reputed Vatel school of hospitality. She takes care of the guests, while Chef Nicolas Malherbe brings a fragrant and stylish French touch to one of the best cuisines in town. Though he worked shortly with Robuchon, Malherbe likes to call himself a self-made cook; a good one, actually, as our dinner at Van's was brilliant.

We wished to taste the best specialities of this French restaurant, made from the freshest ingredients. Though Van's remains a great value for money restaurant compared with the western standards, Nicolas buys nothing but the best quality ingredients: importing beef, lamb and even duck from oversea. Fish and vegetables usually come from the local market. The Cambodian elite, and expats alike, are fond of his “Home-made Foie Gras Terrine, with Pineau des Charentes Wine, Blackcurrant Jelly & Confit of Fig”; we ordered almost the same dish at L'Atelier Robuchon Hong-Kong, and must confess that we found few difference between the two places. Alternatively, the mouth watering “Crust Broiled Duck Egg with Morels, Green Asparagus & Parmesan Cheese Foam” makes it a lighter way. As a main dish, we would recommend the “Skate Wing fried with Condiments & Hazelnuts, served with Mashed Orange Carrot & Croquette of Fondant Rice”: the stingray served at Van's is purchased from the local market. Not as iodized as cold seas fish, it has nevertheless a refined taste and a perfect texture. Nicolas is a specialist in seafood, and the “Pan-Fried Langoustines with Quinoa Risotto Style, Parmesan Mousse & Green Asparagus” is a confirmation of his skill. Meat is also skillfully catered. Straightly order one of Van's best sellers: either the juicy “Roasted Rack of Lamp with Five Herbs, served with Potato Gratin”, or the tender, medium-rare “Beef Filet wrapped with Crushed Coffee Beans, served with Kampot's Black Peppercorn, flambé with Cognac”. So classic and so classy! Desserts are light as a cloud, concluding fairly well a dinner where portions come more generously than anywhere else in Phnom Penh. Though the little bit plain “Crusty Chocolate with Coconut Mousse, Exotic Jelly and Kiwi Sorbet” would have reinforced its taste using Valrona chocolate, the “Blackcurrant & White Chocolate with Nuts Entremet, Passion Fruit Gelly” was a festival of flavors which exploded on the tongue.

The average bill at Van's is USD 35 (USD 45 with a couple of glasses of fair quality French wine of the house). The Special Business Lunch, at USD 15, includes wine and coffee! The wine list is splendid, featuring amazing labels at a fair price: we ordered “Château Côte de Rol, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Robert Giraud, 2008”. Full-bodied and powerful, well balanced with a very individual bouquet, it costs USD 70; twice or thrice less than in a bistro in Paris. Not even the price of a decent bottle of Bordeaux in a Bangkok supermarket... Van's is not only a wonderful gourmet restaurant; this is also a very honest family run business, where the client quickly becomes a friend.

If you come during the cool season, sit in the pleasant terrace or at the balcony; for business or family meeting, you might prefer the private VIP dinning room.


VAN'S: No. 5, St. 102, Place de la Poste, 12202 Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia
PHONE: +855 23 722 067
E-MAIL: contact@vans-restaurant.com

LA RESIDENCE (*****): This is, with Van, the poshest and preferred restaurant in Phnom Penh. Thus, you will hardly meet a tourist in the refined dinning rooms and private salons. Only foreign residents, ambassadors and wealthy Cambodian made the French run La Résidence their canteen. Located in the quiet diplomatic green belt, in the centre of Phnom Penh, near the Independence Monument, this opulent oasis of peace surrounded by the lush of beautiful tropical gardens opens on monumental carved door. It gave us much more the pleasant impression that we were visiting a rich Cambodian friend, than routinely inspecting a restaurant: and La Résidence has been designed such a cool and intimate way, that it doesn't look like a restaurant at all. This is why we, like all the guests, loved it at first sight. There is a small lobby in the entrance, flanked with elegant stairs up to some of the mysterious “salons privés” (the best one stands downstairs, with a private entrance and parking lot, and opens to the swimming pool: it is much wanted by the royal family and the “big shots”). The staff (totalling 40 people; we would come back just for the nice looking hostesses!), described as “too friendly and obtrusive” in some reviews that we have read in Tripadvisor, is on the contrary extremely discreet, producing an as smooth as silk quality of service.

The refined modern Cambodian concept of the main dinning room, decorated with high-end silk, precious wood, wide bay windows and glass roof would be enough for many who like to see and be seen. But, good piece of news, the cuisine pairs the attractive design. It is French classic, with a slight Oriental flair and that little “know how” distinguishing a gourmet restaurant from a greasy spoon. Michelin starred executive chef Takeshi Kamo, from Japan, prepares French specialities like goose and duck liver better than anybody: his “foie gras sushis” made his reputation over the walls of La Résidence. The restaurant caters the Royal Palace! We enjoyed his classic appetizers, like the refreshing “Gazpacho in a Verine” and the light as a cloud “Salmon Tartar with a Wasabi Mousse”, paired with one glass of "Comte John Du Monceau, Mendoza” produced in Vallee de Uco, at 1500m at the feet of the highest Andes Mountains. A good wine at a fair price (USD 4 by the glass). Kamo excels in seafood: we liked our “John Dory, orange, Champagne Sauce and Mashed Potatoes”. A sophisticated, though successful combination which takes more relief with just a touch of Kampot pepper (from Cambodia: the best pepper in the world). The cooking time of the “Roasted Salmon” was ad hoc: served over fresh baby spinach and mashed pumpkin, it came with grilled bread crusted with fragrant black olives. The same flavours of Provence extended to the “Monkfish Tail, Saffron Rice, Grilled Almonds with a blend of Anchovy”. A light, imaginative and superb gastronomy.

Last but not least, pastry chef Christophe Le cardinal makes the best macaroons in Phnom Penh (La résidence is also a well known tea-room), and more imaginative alchemies: like the yummy “Chocolate Coulant, with Macha Green Tea”; which positively concluded one of the best lunch we had ever enjoyed in Asia.

The menu is regularly updates, depending on the season, but remains amazingly affordable. The Lunch Set Menu goes for USD 15 (!!!), and the Gourmet Menu for as less as USD 29.


LA RESIDENCE: No.22-24 Street 214, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia
PHONE: +855 (0)23 224 582
E-MAIL: phalikyin@la-residence-restaurant.com

LE ROYAL (*****): We don't like so much reviewing hotels restaurants; but Phnom Penh don't offer many five star tables, and Le Royal is so classy that this would have been a pity to ignore it. Located in the historic Hotel Le Royal, by Raffles, erected by the French in 1929, featuring one of the most elegant “Belle Epoque” architecture in Phnom Penh, this is a pleasure and a privilege, which only money can pay,  to seat in this smart dinning room mixing French Colonial, Art Deco and Khmer styles.

The service is over the top, and the cuisine is, let's say, “international”: which means that you can expect the best a five star hotel can offer. No WOW; thus a great satisfaction of all senses. Chef Steve Van Remoortel, from Belgium, has worked in more than 10 countries already. We heard of him for first time when we dinned at the great Dusit Thani Bangkok, some years ago. Steve obviously remained with his philosophy: discreetly imaginative, always using the best ingredients from around the world (US lamb from Colorado, Australian beef...). Just the spices were missing: we were expecting more relief in this wonderful country, where fragrant food is served in the streets and small restaurants for a couple of dollars. Now one simple and single question: is it worth three times the average local salary (without wine)? If you want to help the local economy -and the Raffles group- the response is yes... Else, you'd rather visit Van's or La Résidence. 

RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL: 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh,
Sangkat Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia
PHONE: +855 23 981 888    FACSIMILE: +855 23 981 168
E-MAIL: phnompenh@raffles.com


FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB “FCC” (***): Affectionately referred as FCC by its regular patrons, this is “our club” in Phnom Penh, located next door to the Royal Residence , and where the expats traditionally gather for sundowner. We can't compare it with its homonym in Hong Kong; no need to be a member (is there a membership, by the way?) to climb up to the rooftop floor, enjoy the most beautiful tropical terrace in the city centre, and sip a chilled glass of “Angkor Beer” (on the rocks, to look like a long term resident!) lulled by the “flop-flop” of the 1950's Westinghouse ceiling fan.

The place attracted us each evening, like a lamp attracts moths. Not that much for the relatively plain quality of the food: though the wood-fired pizza is fine... but as expensive as in Europe or in the USA, at about USD 10, and the Khmer Dessert Tasting Plate is OK, at USD 6. What we rather liked in the FCC is the lazy colonial atmosphere, surviving here more than anywhere else in Phnom Penh. Let the tourists capture the remarkable view over the River Mekong, and straightly try to find a seat at “The F", as the patrons frequenting the big horseshoe bar like to call it. It has served stiff drinks, camaraderie and comfort to a storied cast of journalists and diplomats, movie stars and intrepid travellers since 1993. You might like to stay little bit away from the crowds, on a nostalgic night, drink a glass of French Armagnac and smoke a Cuban cigar, listening to live rhumba, in one of the remote corners of the rooftop terrace, where foreign correspondents like to meditate during the war, in front of their Underwood type-writer. Feeling like somewhere, indeed!


FOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB “FCC”:  363 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia
PHONE: +855 23 724 014       FACSIMILE:  +855 23 427 758
E-MAIL: phnompenh@fcccambodia.com


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